Just joking!....I actually agree with everyone!...

 

Pull and check out the engine, trans & diff...anything that will hold water. Give it a try at least and then decide on your course. What the hell, don't surrender before you even get a shot off.

 

That advice would make perfect sense, if there was a known precedent, for a good outcome. Is it possible.....yes....but almost anything is.....provided funds are endless.

 

Seems to me we have actually been given very sketchy information, thus the answer is really not very easy to give. The OP has said the engine was running when it went under (this per the seller). Does that mean it was running as it went under water, or it ran before it went under water, (big difference in damage there). What really needs to be explained is, what does “under” really mean. “Under” as the Cold Air Intake went “under” or the entire car went “under” … Or it went “under” up to the seat bottoms. I think you see my point. If it’s just the engine (intake) that went “under” rebuild it and your likely fine. If it went “under” to the seat bottoms, you’d have plenty of issues but still might be workable with the proper knowledge, patience, and money. If the entire electrical system has been subjected to water, you’d have the entire engine rebuild expense ahead of you before you could ever start to see if you could overcome the electrical issues. As was mentioned before these cars are coming down in price. It’s impossible to predict the amount of money that will need to be spent, but we all know it could be many thousands, and could easily surpass the expense of a nice clean titled Z06. Not knowing I’d be inclined, just as the others have mention, to part it out, make a track car, or start over with the funds you raise, and buy a nice one with a clean title. Do some research on “salvage titles” and resale value. You could be closer to being in the hole (or under water) (pun intended) than you think, before you ever start. Just my two cents. …”pear”

 

OK guys...i stuck the battery from the bronco in it and when i turn the key all i hear is a clicking that seems to be coming from one of the headlights. nothing else happens except the tach goes to about 4000 and sits there. I pulled the plugs and some orange fluid came out of a few holes. My buddy says the motors shot and I should make a dune buggy out of it.

 

If the motor is blown and computers are questionable I hope you didn't give more than 6-7 grand...

That's about the value of the pile of used parts sitting there.

I doubt you'll tell us what you actually paid though.

 

Don't even try to start that motor.....because you have water in the cylinders, and probably pooled in the heads!

 

Just to explain more...the car was driven into the water by the previous owner. sounds like he had a heart attack or something and lost it. Don't know how long it was in the water, but the police do like to take their sweet *** time.

 

I don't care if it was under water for 5 minutes, or 5 days. The motor needs to come apart, and the tranny, differential, torque tube, etc. You've got yourself a full blown project there dude. Hope your skills and wallet are up to the challenge.

 

You've got a duzie on ur hands.

Coolant coming out of spark plug holes spells Big trouble. I bet you could do this if you had another wrecked car to pull parts from. Someone above said 1 from 2. You're gonna know more about C5s than anyone else on this board if you get this one ship-shape

Seriously, mechanically (suspension, crossmembers, brakes, exhaust, Tranny, diff) are probably no worse for wear from a little soak. I would strip down the torque tube, tranny, and diff for a looky loo, but I bet the oil film on everything would have protected the innards well. The body's probably ok too...depending on how it got into the river. The electrical system is toast IMHO...the interior as well.

I would try a project like this for $hits and giggles, but only if I had another car to draw parts from...

...and I wouldn't spend a lot of money on it.

 

buy a used LS1 and have someone install it for you, you will need

Engine used from junk yard etc..
plugs wires
maybe new exhaust cats for sure 02 sensors
e fans 2x of them
BCM, ECU??
Fresh fluid in trans, rear diff, coolant, brake fluid
steering rack
maybe radiator
alternator
starter
new carpet

that is just for starters who know what else might pop up

 

Did he die in the car?

This deal sounds better and better the more you explain.

 

If you're serious about getting this car back in usable condition, you're really looking at a frame up resoration. All harnesses, computer modules, motors, etc. etc. etc. Then drop a new motor in it. An expensive and very time consuming operation with minimal returns considering the rapidly declining prices for C5's.

 

I wonder why the above question can't be answered?
Yeah, at least tell us how much of a 'bath' you took on this deal- you know, just for entertainment purposes.

 

I've refurbished multi-million dollar equipment before that went through a fire with smoke and fire damage, then stored in a wharehouse for a few years with monkey footprints. It just takes a lot of determination. If you have the car already, just take it one step at a time.

Plan on a lot of disassembly and cleaning. The biggest problem with electrical stuff if it didn't get fried when it got dunked is corrosion and poor contacts. That is why cars that have been submerged have all kinds of electrical problems. I would pull every board and contact I could out and at least inspect it. WD-40 and electrical grease can help clean up some problems as well, but don't spray WD-40 on circuit boards (it creates shorts). The WD stands for "Water Dispacement."

Engine, trans and diff should be opened up, dried and fluids replaced. Hopefully the engine did not hydro lock or you may have bent a rod.

 

Having alot of experience with flood cars in the shop down here,I can tell you if the car was not disassembled and dried within the first 48 hours or so,you are looking at an electrical nightmare.It does matter how deep it went also.Rule of thumb for the insurance companies is if the water level hits the bottom of the dash,it is totaled.

 

Sounds like a fun project and a challenge I'd like. Hope you have a BIG work area; put it up on jack-stands and strip it to a shell, including all wiring. Buy a very totaled donor car for eng, wiring and electronics. When your done, part out the left overs to recoupe some money. good luck

 

seems like a little late for these questions

 

Please tell us how much the initial invetment was. That way, we can help figure out how much more you might need to get it running. I wouldnt purchase anything new from a dealership as that price will be VERY high. Gene culley at www.gmpartshouse.com has vey good prices on GM stuff that you have to have new.

There are some modules that can be disassembled, inspected cleaned and made to work again. Things like the Instrument Panel, is most likely a LOST CAUSE. But, hey,,,nothing lost by trying.

Start with the basics. Disconnect each module and electrical componet. Inspect it for water damage and repair if necessary. The schematics and trouble shooting details are very detailed and will provide you a lot of troubleshooting info.

Make sure that you have proper voltage at each fuse box and all the branches/fused circuits. Unless the battery terminals are properly torqued to 11 ft/lbs, they may not have made proper electrical connection. Very common issue.

Once all the modules are checke out / repaired and reconnected, CHECK FOR DTCs!! There your KEY for troubleshooting!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



There are several Corvette Salvage yards that sell discount parts that are much less than at the dealership. Getting a totaled C5 for parts may also be a good idea.

Your going to need a set of GM service manuals and to get REAL friendly with them.

Bill

 

bogspores--- I think we're saying don't use your C5 as a BOAT