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Engine dies after warm up, restart after cools

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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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Default Engine dies after warm up, restart after cools

Hi everyone,
My engine cuts out after it fully warms up to full operarting temperture and won't restart again until it fully cools down (3 hrs?). It will then run fine again until it gets back to full operating temp again. Engine will turn over fine but will not start.

Pulled codes:

28 TCS - C1225 C1232 C1278

60 IPC - B0521

AO-LDCM - B2282 B2284 B2264 U1064

A1-RDCM - B2283 B2285 B2265 U1064

Can anyone give me any ideas were to look? Any help would be great!
I have the FSM but am having trouble interpeting where to look.

p.s. it's a 2001

Thanks

Last edited by clydeyb; Feb 21, 2010 at 09:08 AM. Reason: addition info
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Long shot, but my fuel pump ground did the same thing last week. Is pump running with key on? Ground located on side of frame behind LR wheel on C5.
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:54 AM
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Fuel pump comes on. thanks for the reply!
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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Your C5 PCM operates in TWO modes. OPEN LOOP (when COLD and during WIDE OPEN THROTTLE & CLOSED LOOP when the engine is warmed up and crusing with less than 3/4 throttle).

Your problem happens when you are in closed loop.

What modifications have you done to your engine??? Clear the DTCs and when the engine dies,,,,with out turning the engine OFF and back ON,,,read the DTC's

If your not using this procedure, try it:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!



Read and post the DTCs that you get.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Feb 21, 2010 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by clydeyb
Hi everyone,
My engine cuts out after it fully warms up to full operarting temperture and won't restart again until it fully cools down (3 hrs?). It will then run fine again until it gets back to full operating temp again. Engine will turn over fine but will not start.

Pulled codes:

28 TCS - C1225 C1232 C1278

60 IPC - B0521

AO-LDCM - B2282 B2284 B2264 U1064

A1-RDCM - B2283 B2285 B2265 U1064

Can anyone give me any ideas were to look? Any help would be great!
I have the FSM but am having trouble interpeting where to look.

p.s. it's a 2001

Thanks
When you say will not restart, do you mean it cranks..but won't fire...or won't crank at all?

If it will crank, then you need to check for the basics first: Fuel and spark. Find out which one is missing after it dies.
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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Yes, it will turn over but not start as I stated in my last sentence of the post. I think I found the problem but I am still evaluating. It has not died out since I wiggled the ground point that is on the frame rail below the battery. Do you think that ground point could cause the engine to cut out and set those codes? Can anyone tell me how to take the bolt out so I could clean the ground. It looks like you have to remove the fender hell cover?
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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You mean this one:



If thats the one, just pull the battery sorround off the cowl and up offf that ground lug. Its a 10mm nut. Yes that ground is important.

You shouldnt be able to wiggle /move any ground connection.

BC

Bill
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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Yea that's the one, and thanks for all the information you provided me!!
I cleared the codes so if it happens again I will have the newest codes. Also thanks for the picture and the explaination on how to access it. It is simplier than I thought. Thank you again!
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