Air pump check valves.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,615
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From: No Where USA
Air pump check valves.
I am having trouble with my car getting code p0410.
I disconnected the hose from the check valve on the drivers side. and had the motor running. I was getting exhaust from the valve. Does this mean the valve is stuck open?
I disconnected the hose from the check valve on the drivers side. and had the motor running. I was getting exhaust from the valve. Does this mean the valve is stuck open?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
1) Does the the AIR pump turn on?
2) If so, is the valve opening on the pump. This is actuated by a solenoid control valve under the battery tray/PCM area. The vacuum lines can appear to be free of corrosion, yet still be chaffed or worn through.....so running your fingers along the lines is necessary.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 350
From: No Where USA
If a check valve was bad, you would either get a P1415 or P1416 code. A P0410 suggest that neither O2 is sensing air from the pump. Better off investigating:
1) Does the the AIR pump turn on?
2) If so, is the valve opening on the pump. This is actuated by a solenoid control valve under the battery tray/PCM area. The vacuum lines can appear to be free of corrosion, yet still be chaffed or worn through.....so running your fingers along the lines is necessary.
1) Does the the AIR pump turn on?
2) If so, is the valve opening on the pump. This is actuated by a solenoid control valve under the battery tray/PCM area. The vacuum lines can appear to be free of corrosion, yet still be chaffed or worn through.....so running your fingers along the lines is necessary.
I will give the pump a check tommorrow And the solonoid valve.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The AIR "CHECK VALVES" allow AIR Pump air into the exhaust system but NO exhaust should be leaking OUT of the valve. Theres a rubber diaphram in the valve that gets hard and goes bad:
If you disconnect the AIR tubing near the alternator, at cold start,,,,you should have a steady stream of cold fresh air out of the pump:
If the pump runs and the vacuum source function properly,,,you should have AIR FLOW:
BC
If you disconnect the AIR tubing near the alternator, at cold start,,,,you should have a steady stream of cold fresh air out of the pump:
If the pump runs and the vacuum source function properly,,,you should have AIR FLOW:
BC
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: No Where USA
Thank you Bill as always you come through with great information and pictures.
So with being able to hear exhaust coming from the check valve would indicate a faulty valve.
Like I said in a previous thread, the problem started when I went through a puddle.
So with being able to hear exhaust coming from the check valve would indicate a faulty valve.
Like I said in a previous thread, the problem started when I went through a puddle.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
Have you verified the pump is running on start up?
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
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From: Dyer, IN
If no air is coming out:
1) Pump is not running
a) Pump is dead
b) Fuse is blown
c) No input from PCM to relay 33
d) Relay 33 is bad
e) Wiring/ground issue
2) Pump is running but no air coming out
a) bad vacuum line between the solenoid valve & pump
b) valve on pump is bad
Last edited by lucky131969; Mar 2, 2010 at 12:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: No Where USA
Ok...the pump is not quiet bro....you should certainly be able to hear it....spins up pretty good. It only comes on for up to 240 seconds after start. Have you checked maxifuse #50 in the underhood fuse box?
If no air is coming out:
1) Pump is not running
a) Pump is dead
b) Fuse is blown
c) No input from PCM to relay 33
d) Relay 33 is bad
e) Wiring/ground issue
2) Pump is running but no air coming out
a) bad vacuum line between the solenoid valve & pump
b) valve on pump is bad
If no air is coming out:
1) Pump is not running
a) Pump is dead
b) Fuse is blown
c) No input from PCM to relay 33
d) Relay 33 is bad
e) Wiring/ground issue
2) Pump is running but no air coming out
a) bad vacuum line between the solenoid valve & pump
b) valve on pump is bad
Checked fuse #50 under the hood, it was good. There is also a relay, I swapped it out for the one next to it, still no good
I have to go to work tonight so I went as far as I could today. I will try to get back to it tomorrow.
Is there any way to jump out the pump to see if it working...put 12 volts to it.
Thanks for the help.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
Checked fuse #50 under the hood, it was good. There is also a relay, I swapped it out for the one next to it, still no good
I have to go to work tonight so I went as far as I could today. I will try to get back to it tomorrow.
Is there any way to jump out the pump to see if it working...put 12 volts to it.
Thanks for the help.
I have to go to work tonight so I went as far as I could today. I will try to get back to it tomorrow.
Is there any way to jump out the pump to see if it working...put 12 volts to it.
Thanks for the help.
I would check for 12 volts and a good ground at the pump connector first. You can jump the relay socket contacts if you want.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,615
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From: No Where USA
Well last night I remembered I had replaced the radiator cradle last year.
I poped out the front brake vent and got my hand in there and sureenough the wiring was not in good. Plugged it in and the pump kicked right in when I started the car. Thanks for your help guys.
Now for the next problem.... The check engine light doesn't come on when you start the car. This must have just started because I would not have known about the pump if it didn't work before.
I poped out the front brake vent and got my hand in there and sureenough the wiring was not in good. Plugged it in and the pump kicked right in when I started the car. Thanks for your help guys.
Now for the next problem.... The check engine light doesn't come on when you start the car. This must have just started because I would not have known about the pump if it didn't work before.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 2
Secondary Air Pump & Valve Issue on C5 1998 Corvette
My 1998 Corvette displayed a recurrent DIC Code PO410.
My mechanic checked Solenoid, Air Pump & Solenoid fuses & relsy and vacuum system- all good-
Yesterday he pulled the air pump hose at the exhaust valve( passenger side) with a cold start-.
Air was blowing cintinuodly out of hose correctly and sir pump was running for 1 to 2 minutes, then stopped.- He re-connected it to Valve again and removed the PO410 code . I then took a test drive with my car on highway (60 mph) for about 20 minutes & no code recurred. Today , this am with cold restart and air pump did not kick on and code came on immediately ( check engine light).
If exhaust Valve defective, would this shut off the Air Pump immediately. We removed the Valve , sprayed it with carburetor cleaner, DW40- and replaced it back into position.Still with same PO Code- Defective Vslve? Any suggestions appreciated.
My mechanic checked Solenoid, Air Pump & Solenoid fuses & relsy and vacuum system- all good-
Yesterday he pulled the air pump hose at the exhaust valve( passenger side) with a cold start-.
Air was blowing cintinuodly out of hose correctly and sir pump was running for 1 to 2 minutes, then stopped.- He re-connected it to Valve again and removed the PO410 code . I then took a test drive with my car on highway (60 mph) for about 20 minutes & no code recurred. Today , this am with cold restart and air pump did not kick on and code came on immediately ( check engine light).
If exhaust Valve defective, would this shut off the Air Pump immediately. We removed the Valve , sprayed it with carburetor cleaner, DW40- and replaced it back into position.Still with same PO Code- Defective Vslve? Any suggestions appreciated.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The PCM commands the AIR Pump ON and it should run for about 2 min during COLD START. The engine must be in the correct dead iron COLD START temp for the pump to run. Way Way back years ago, I tried and succeeded with cleaning and reusing the check valves. That was before I actually dissected the valves and found out that the actual VALVE is just a rubber disk that deflects off its seat to allow air flow. I had ASSUMED that the valve would have been constructed with a metal or fiber disk and seat held down with a calibrated spring. IT IS NOT! The rubber disk gets old, deformed and hard over time. The rubber disk needs to pliable to allow it to deflect offf its seat and allow a very specific volume of air to flow during the test. When its OLD and HARD, it can NOT deflect the required amount and pass the correct volume of air.
JUST REPLACE THE VALVES.
Another note: The PCM will also run the test during a drive session when all the SPECIFIC CONDITIONS to run the test occur to allow it to run. Just driving the vehicle and expecting it to occur isn't always going to happen. If the engine is dead iron cold, You should see the 2 min AIR PUMP operation at the rubber hose disconnect near the alternator.
BC
JUST REPLACE THE VALVES.
Another note: The PCM will also run the test during a drive session when all the SPECIFIC CONDITIONS to run the test occur to allow it to run. Just driving the vehicle and expecting it to occur isn't always going to happen. If the engine is dead iron cold, You should see the 2 min AIR PUMP operation at the rubber hose disconnect near the alternator.
BC
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 2
Secondary air pump/ Valve failure issue-
The PCM commands the AIR Pump ON and it should run for about 2 min during COLD START. The engine must be in the correct dead iron COLD START temp for the pump to run. Way Way back years ago, I tried and succeeded with cleaning and reusing the check valves. That was before I actually dissected the valves and found out that the actual VALVE is just a rubber disk that deflects off its seat to allow air flow. I had ASSUMED that the valve would have been constructed with a metal or fiber disk and seat held down with a calibrated spring. IT IS NOT! The rubber disk gets old, deformed and hard over time. The rubber disk needs to pliable to allow it to deflect offf its seat and allow a very specific volume of air to flow during the test. When its OLD and HARD, it can NOT deflect the required amount and pass the correct volume of air.
JUST REPLACE THE VALVES.
Another note: The PCM will also run the test during a drive session when all the SPECIFIC CONDITIONS to run the test occur to allow it to run. Just driving the vehicle and expecting it to occur isn't always going to happen. If the engine is dead iron cold, You should see the 2 min AIR PUMP operation at the rubber hose disconnect near the alternator.
BC
JUST REPLACE THE VALVES.
Another note: The PCM will also run the test during a drive session when all the SPECIFIC CONDITIONS to run the test occur to allow it to run. Just driving the vehicle and expecting it to occur isn't always going to happen. If the engine is dead iron cold, You should see the 2 min AIR PUMP operation at the rubber hose disconnect near the alternator.
BC
Last edited by dgbase; Apr 16, 2024 at 07:00 PM. Reason: asking if you have to remove manifold for the second valve?
