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So if I'm just replacing my stock sway bars with beefier non-adjustable bars and non-adjustable metal end links can I do it on a lift or do Ihave to use jack stands?
If you want to get the bars installed then set the new links to the same length as the stock links and bolt them up. You can do it np problem with the car on jack stands.
If you want to adjust the end links to change the pre-load then you need to do it with the car sitting on a level surface without jacking the car weight off the wheels.
I'd suggest you put it on the stands and install them. If you want to play with adjustments later you still have that option.
Peter
I forgot to report back. The install went good. I adjusted the end links to the same size as my stock links were. I marked and centered the bars and I added teflon tape under the bushings. I torqued everything to specks and lowered her down.
Test drive to let her settle in and then went to my favorite off ramp. Now you know I stayed at the 35 mph posted speed . Wow! A very noticeable difference.
For you guys that are thinking of this upgrade, just do it.
Did you only use teflon tape for the poly bushings or did you use grease as well?
If tape only, please give us a report after you drive it for a while.
I just added the C6 Z51 bars to my C5 and am thinking about pulling them back off, cleaning the nasty grease off, wrapping them with teflon tape and putting them back on. Just not sure if it's gonna work ok. Might try it though....
Did you only use teflon tape for the poly bushings or did you use grease as well?
If tape only, please give us a report after you drive it for a while.
I just added the C6 Z51 bars to my C5 and am thinking about pulling them back off, cleaning the nasty grease off, wrapping them with teflon tape and putting them back on. Just not sure if it's gonna work ok. Might try it though....
My sway bars were Hotchkis and the new poly bushings that come with the bars are dry lube impregnated and say not to use any grease.
I simply wrapped the bars with the teflon tape, installed the bushings over the bars, installed them and after torqued down I cut off the tape that was on the bar outside of the bushings. No grease on the bushings. My end links do have grease certs and I used Mobile 1 synthetic.
I have only put about 200 miles on it since the install and all in good, no noise. I will let you know if anything changes. Mark
You technically don't have to but with the wheels off it's much, much easier to reach in from the wheel wells and take the end-links off, especially when the car is on jack stands.
I have these bars on my 2000 vert, I really like them. Gratz on finally getting them on!
Definitely a quality product with nice durable powder coating and quiet links. Everyone knows you have them too, Hotkis convieniently placed their logo sticker in clear view on the rear bar. I've put 30k+ miles on them and the bushings are still silent. I didn't use any teflon or grease on the bushings.
Tried the rear in the middle and outer hole settings. I run stock sized non-runflats, Bilsteins and the stiffer z51/z06 front spring. My alignment guy started with the stock 2004 Z06 settings. I found the outer holes (minimum setting) gave me the best balance. Onramps trip the traction control every time so if I want to go fast I have to turn it off or spend the time to set it in competitive mode. Would be nice to find a way to re-tune the traction control a little.
You technically don't have to but with the wheels off it's much, much easier to reach in from the wheel wells and take the end-links off, especially when the car is on jack stands.
Peter
Made it easier to get around and easier to get my torque wrench in. Mark
Hotchkis recommended to me to use the middle hole for lowered car.
Now if you haven't replace your springs with Z06 or better now is the time to do it and change your shocks with Bilstein sports shocks = awesome.