Pilot bearing question
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 986
Likes: 4
From: Galaxy Traveler
I used NAPA part number 615-1161 bronze pilot bushing, $3.49. Got a couple thousand miles on it with no problem.
I have performed many clutch jobs over the years. Never seen a worn out pilot bushing but almost every one I did with a bearing had a bad bearing. I've seen people have to cut input shafts off to get tranny's out when they welded themselves to a bad pilot bearing.
The pilot bearing in my vette was gone. I pulled it at 46K and I'm sure it was gone long before that. I had to cut the outer bearing case with a dremel and diamond bit to get it out of the crank. Once I got it thin enough to crack the puller snatched it right out.
I usually paint a thin coat of antiseeze on the clutch splines and input shaft as well as the bushing. Never had a problem with it causing a bushing failure or getting on the clutch disc.
Test fit the disc on the splines and as mentioned the bushing or bearing on the end of the input shaft.
I have performed many clutch jobs over the years. Never seen a worn out pilot bushing but almost every one I did with a bearing had a bad bearing. I've seen people have to cut input shafts off to get tranny's out when they welded themselves to a bad pilot bearing.
The pilot bearing in my vette was gone. I pulled it at 46K and I'm sure it was gone long before that. I had to cut the outer bearing case with a dremel and diamond bit to get it out of the crank. Once I got it thin enough to crack the puller snatched it right out.
I usually paint a thin coat of antiseeze on the clutch splines and input shaft as well as the bushing. Never had a problem with it causing a bushing failure or getting on the clutch disc.
Test fit the disc on the splines and as mentioned the bushing or bearing on the end of the input shaft.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 986
Likes: 4
From: Galaxy Traveler
This one you show looks better except it looks like it pulls the bearing by screwing the center stud into the crank. Would'nt that possibly damage the oil plug that is pressed into the rear of the crank?
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
The service manual calls for a J23907. It is the slide hammer variety.
This one you show looks better except it looks like it pulls the bearing by screwing the center stud into the crank. Would'nt that possibly damage the oil plug that is pressed into the rear of the crank?
This one you show looks better except it looks like it pulls the bearing by screwing the center stud into the crank. Would'nt that possibly damage the oil plug that is pressed into the rear of the crank?
I t doesn't put any pressure againt the crank. It just pulls it out by using a wrench to hold the body still and using a rachet on the end.
Takes me 5 minutes.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria Ca.
It's got to push on something to get the bearing out-turning the shaft with a ratchet extends the center "post" of the puller,which pushes the bearing out from the crank side.
It is possible that the end of the "post" is actually larger than the oil plug,in fact,if you've used it and it didn't cause an oil leak,it must be.
The slide hammer type I borrowed from Auto Zone worked just fine for me,plus you can also use it to drive the new bearing/bushing in.
It is possible that the end of the "post" is actually larger than the oil plug,in fact,if you've used it and it didn't cause an oil leak,it must be.
The slide hammer type I borrowed from Auto Zone worked just fine for me,plus you can also use it to drive the new bearing/bushing in.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
If you have the factory service manual, you would see where it is listed.
It sits on the outer edge of the crank. I've used it half a dozen times, no problems. In fact I've lent it to several others and they have had no problems.
It sits on the outer edge of the crank. I've used it half a dozen times, no problems. In fact I've lent it to several others and they have had no problems.
It's got to push on something to get the bearing out-turning the shaft with a ratchet extends the center "post" of the puller,which pushes the bearing out from the crank side.
It is possible that the end of the "post" is actually larger than the oil plug,in fact,if you've used it and it didn't cause an oil leak,it must be.
The slide hammer type I borrowed from Auto Zone worked just fine for me,plus you can also use it to drive the new bearing/bushing in.
It is possible that the end of the "post" is actually larger than the oil plug,in fact,if you've used it and it didn't cause an oil leak,it must be.
The slide hammer type I borrowed from Auto Zone worked just fine for me,plus you can also use it to drive the new bearing/bushing in.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 782
Likes: 45
From: Toronto Ontario
I made this piece of crap when I did my clutch. Just like the one above, it slides in and then expands to grab the back of the bearing. They're not that hard to get out really...a lot easier than old school bushings, imho.
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 3
From: East Hampton CT
Anyone have the part number for the kevlar bushing? I just installed my LS2 about 200mi ago, but a loud noise in the driveline caused me to have to pull the transmission/diff and torque tube. Found a bolt had backed out of the inner torque tube shaft and bounced around in there. The input shaft has some tiny nicks in it from where it was guided into the needles, but surprisingly the needles look perfect. With 200mi on it, its killing me to do the pilot bearing again, but like everyone says, its better to spend the little $ now rather than have to yank it all when the pilot goes south.
I'm hoping the kevlar is the solution....
I'm hoping the kevlar is the solution....
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Anyone have the part number for the kevlar bushing? I just installed my LS2 about 200mi ago, but a loud noise in the driveline caused me to have to pull the transmission/diff and torque tube. Found a bolt had backed out of the inner torque tube shaft and bounced around in there. The input shaft has some tiny nicks in it from where it was guided into the needles, but surprisingly the needles look perfect. With 200mi on it, its killing me to do the pilot bearing again, but like everyone says, its better to spend the little $ now rather than have to yank it all when the pilot goes south.
I'm hoping the kevlar is the solution....
I'm hoping the kevlar is the solution....
