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Pilot bearing question

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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #21  
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From: Galaxy Traveler
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I used NAPA part number 615-1161 bronze pilot bushing, $3.49. Got a couple thousand miles on it with no problem.

I have performed many clutch jobs over the years. Never seen a worn out pilot bushing but almost every one I did with a bearing had a bad bearing. I've seen people have to cut input shafts off to get tranny's out when they welded themselves to a bad pilot bearing.

The pilot bearing in my vette was gone. I pulled it at 46K and I'm sure it was gone long before that. I had to cut the outer bearing case with a dremel and diamond bit to get it out of the crank. Once I got it thin enough to crack the puller snatched it right out.

I usually paint a thin coat of antiseeze on the clutch splines and input shaft as well as the bushing. Never had a problem with it causing a bushing failure or getting on the clutch disc.

Test fit the disc on the splines and as mentioned the bushing or bearing on the end of the input shaft.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 03:57 AM
  #22  
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This is the recomended GM tool for pulling the piloy bearing.

Takes me about 5 minutes to get it out.

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 07:27 AM
  #23  
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Thats like the tool I used, it worked alot better and actually fit.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
This is the recomended GM tool for pulling the piloy bearing.

Takes me about 5 minutes to get it out.

The service manual calls for a J23907. It is the slide hammer variety.

This one you show looks better except it looks like it pulls the bearing by screwing the center stud into the crank. Would'nt that possibly damage the oil plug that is pressed into the rear of the crank?
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Han Solo
The service manual calls for a J23907. It is the slide hammer variety.

This one you show looks better except it looks like it pulls the bearing by screwing the center stud into the crank. Would'nt that possibly damage the oil plug that is pressed into the rear of the crank?
According to the 2001 manual set I got from GM this was the recommended tool.

I t doesn't put any pressure againt the crank. It just pulls it out by using a wrench to hold the body still and using a rachet on the end.

Takes me 5 minutes.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:29 PM
  #26  
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It's got to push on something to get the bearing out-turning the shaft with a ratchet extends the center "post" of the puller,which pushes the bearing out from the crank side.

It is possible that the end of the "post" is actually larger than the oil plug,in fact,if you've used it and it didn't cause an oil leak,it must be.

The slide hammer type I borrowed from Auto Zone worked just fine for me,plus you can also use it to drive the new bearing/bushing in.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #27  
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If you have the factory service manual, you would see where it is listed.

It sits on the outer edge of the crank. I've used it half a dozen times, no problems. In fact I've lent it to several others and they have had no problems.



Originally Posted by Carcass
It's got to push on something to get the bearing out-turning the shaft with a ratchet extends the center "post" of the puller,which pushes the bearing out from the crank side.

It is possible that the end of the "post" is actually larger than the oil plug,in fact,if you've used it and it didn't cause an oil leak,it must be.

The slide hammer type I borrowed from Auto Zone worked just fine for me,plus you can also use it to drive the new bearing/bushing in.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 05:56 AM
  #28  
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I made this piece of crap when I did my clutch. Just like the one above, it slides in and then expands to grab the back of the bearing. They're not that hard to get out really...a lot easier than old school bushings, imho.

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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:07 AM
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Anyone have the part number for the kevlar bushing? I just installed my LS2 about 200mi ago, but a loud noise in the driveline caused me to have to pull the transmission/diff and torque tube. Found a bolt had backed out of the inner torque tube shaft and bounced around in there. The input shaft has some tiny nicks in it from where it was guided into the needles, but surprisingly the needles look perfect. With 200mi on it, its killing me to do the pilot bearing again, but like everyone says, its better to spend the little $ now rather than have to yank it all when the pilot goes south.

I'm hoping the kevlar is the solution....
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:46 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Billdog350
Anyone have the part number for the kevlar bushing? I just installed my LS2 about 200mi ago, but a loud noise in the driveline caused me to have to pull the transmission/diff and torque tube. Found a bolt had backed out of the inner torque tube shaft and bounced around in there. The input shaft has some tiny nicks in it from where it was guided into the needles, but surprisingly the needles look perfect. With 200mi on it, its killing me to do the pilot bearing again, but like everyone says, its better to spend the little $ now rather than have to yank it all when the pilot goes south.

I'm hoping the kevlar is the solution....
Check Summit Racing's catalog. Seems like that's where I saw them listed.
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