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I have everything off/out for my clutch swap except the pilot bearing. Rented a tool from Autozone and it doesn't fit. What would happen if you leave the old pilot bearing in?
I have everything off/out for my clutch swap except the pilot bearing. Rented a tool from Autozone and it doesn't fit. What would happen if you leave the old pilot bearing in?
Does anybody know of a good tool to use? Thanks
Come on, you go through all this work...hit a snag...and want to start cutting corners?
I rented it and it works alot better. Just need more room to fit the hammer. I have to drop and move the cradle/diff/trans some more.
Still trying to figure out what leaving the old pilot bearing/bushing would do to the car. Would it make noise? I just like knowing these things I guess.
I rented it and it works alot better. Just need more room to fit the hammer. I have to drop and move the cradle/diff/trans some more.
Still trying to figure out what leaving the old pilot bearing/bushing would do to the car. Would it make noise? I just like knowing these things I guess.
Maybe nothing. Or, like my car, you will need to do the whole thing over again.
A tuner did my LS7 clutch swap. I was not aware that they did not swap pilot bearings, but they didn't. That may not be the cause of the failure, perhaps the input shaft was forced in when it wasn't perfectly centered. Either way, I had a bad noise (rattle) when launching the car from a dead stop. Over a few weeks, it got much worse. I pulled the drive-train myself in the garage and found a busted pilot bearing. The 'inner' surface was worn out of round. Several of the needle bearings were still intact but the input shaft had room to move around. Luckily the input shaft bearing on the torque tube was fine.
Lesson 1: Save $900 and do the clutch swap yourself
Lesson 2: Replace the $8 pilot bearing and
Lesson 3: Be absolutely sure that the input shaft gets inserted into the pilot bearing smoothly and not at an angle.
"That's what she said."
A shop quoted me $2600 to do my clutch, thats when I decided to just do it myself. So far no regrets in the install, just worried if I would have enough room.
A shop quoted me $2600 to do my clutch, thats when I decided to just do it myself. So far no regrets in the install, just worried if I would have enough room.
I hope you have the cradle separated from the differential, if not, lining it back up will be a challenge.. Can't tell from the pick, but there are warnings about dropping the assembly too far....engine support.....firewall damage..etc.
I've heard that some people use a bushing instead of a factory replacement bearing. Does anyone have experience with using a bushing, and if so, with what results? If positive, then where/which do you recommend?
I've heard that some people use a bushing instead of a factory replacement bearing. Does anyone have experience with using a bushing, and if so, with what results? If positive, then where/which do you recommend?
I can not recommend the bronze bushing idea. It did not work for me. After less than 100 miles it started making an intermittent horrendous sqauling noise. Took everything apart and foudn the bushing was all worbled out letting the input shaft flop around. Every now and then it would "bind" just right and squeal all bad like when engaging the clutch. Removed it and replaced with stock roller bearing. Just did this last week as a matter of fact. Maybe I got an off-sized bushing, I am not sure why it would have worn as badly as it did.
When the old needle bearing cratered, it probably gouged some rough spots on the input shaft. These rough spots then wore the soft oilite bushing like a file. The bushings are oil impregnated and should not be greased at all. That closes the pores and will not allow the oil to work out. GM used the bushings from 1928 to 1984. And they worked for 100,000 miles. The 'new improved' needle bearings will not usually last that long and when they do fail, they usually damage the input shaft. At my clutch shop, we always recommended replacing the needle bearing with an oilite bushing. New aint necessarily better!
I rented it and it works alot better. Just need more room to fit the hammer. I have to drop and move the cradle/diff/trans some more.
Still trying to figure out what leaving the old pilot bearing/bushing would do to the car. Would it make noise? I just like knowing these things I guess.
Changing a clutch is a lot of work, leaving the old pilot bearing is not a good practice... It would be a shame to put all this labor in this job and find out later that this very inexpensive pilot bearing has failed and damged the input shaft to the TQ Tube.
Also, there are some "old school" methods to remove the pilot bearing that should NOT be used on the LS1/LS6 engine such as packing the pilot bearing input shaft hole with grease and using a tool to force the grease behind the bearing to remove it from the cranke.
The blind hole puller worked best for me, just have to do a little more work to get the pilot bearing out. Would you recommend cleaning the crank well before using a bushing?
I removed it as one unit also, haven't had a problem yet.
The blind hole puller worked best for me, just have to do a little more work to get the pilot bearing out. Would you recommend cleaning the crank well before using a bushing?
I removed it as one unit also, haven't had a problem yet.
Yes, Clean the pilot bearing bore with a shop towel using your hand. Just don't poke around there with any tools and there is a oil gally plug on the back side of the cranke. Also, look very closely at the pilot bearing as there are two distinct sides and make sure you install the bearing with the correct side OUT.
TIP> Berfore you install the pilot bearing in the cranke, clean/inspect the TQ Tube output shaft and test fit the pilot bearing on the output shaft to ensure you have the right pilot bearing.
I've heard that some people use a bushing instead of a factory replacement bearing. Does anyone have experience with using a bushing, and if so, with what results? If positive, then where/which do you recommend?
I installed a Kevlar composite pilot bushing 2500 miles ago,so far,so good.
I polished the end of the propshaft with 600 wetordry,and mothers polish first,as it was gnawed up pretty bad from the grenaded needle bearings in the oem pilot bearing I had just installed,then fubared when reinstalling the drivetrain-they're not very forgiving.
Bushings(Kevlar or oillite)are somewhat "idiot tolerant" ,and since aligning the drivetrain perfectly apparently isn't one of my strong points,I went with the bushing,and it's working very well.