Awesome. Look forward to pics as you go about the installation.

 

Bigtoe, thanks for the offer. I'm sure a test drive out your way will in order once I get things buttoned up.

Sorry for the delay guys. Got sidelined with a bout of stomach flu. I am going very slowly and have so far spent two evenings in the garage - about 8 hours and probably have two hours to go.

Some thoughts/notes on my progress so far.

After draining the radiator, much coolant/water remains in the water pump. Cutting and the rerouting the hose spills a lot out onto the ground.

Removing/replacing the fan shroud is MUCH easier with two people. It takes a lot of wiggling and twisting to get it to clear all the hoses and connection. Be careful to watch for contact with the top radiator hose inlet when removing.

The K&N air filter has a tendency to sqeeze out of alignment when tightening down the retaining bracket. I never could get it fully tight without deforming the air filter.

On my '98 the wiring harness for the air pump had to be freed of its retaining clips all the way across the nose of the vehicle and back to the drivers side in order to get enough free play to reconnect it in its new location.

The main and sub Procharger mounting brackets are bolted together when shipped. These should be separated before attempting to bolt up the main procharger body.

There is no mention of connecting the hose between the Procharger's intake and the fan shroud, but this should be done at the time you install the Procharger main body. DO NOT wait until the bracketry is all tightened down.

The intercooler ductiing and hoses require A LOT of trimming. This is probably the most time consuming portion of the install.

Try as I may to get everything tucked up nice and neatly, ground clearance may still suffer by an inch or two. Something to note for you guys with lowered front ends.

I didn't, but if you're inclined, removal of the front clip would help tremendously. Installing the intercoolers and support straps left me with lots of scraps and bruises. Timewise it is probably a trade off, but I'm sure would make things easier.

I still need to trim/adjust the intercooler outlet ducting, replace the injectors, and reprogram the PCM. Hopfully, it'll be on the road this evening and I'll post any final issues/thoughts.

 

God bless America and all you ATI pioneers !!
I have the cash on hand to get one but just waiting for trouble
reports to surface if any at all.
Uhhh, I think I'm getting a woody for that ATI and don't know
how much longer I can wait :yesnod:

 

Stunt,

What type of compression ratio are you at with your stage 2 heads prior to s/c install? Are you concerned about detonation running on pump gas with your setup? How are you addressing these issues, as I have a stage 2 head set up and am at 10.6 to 1, one half point over stock already and have been advised that even going with a 5 lb pully would still not let me run on pump gas. Thanks for the info

 

Avette, I'm at 10.8 and will therefore not be installing the SC with my current config. I'll more than likely have ARE built me a new low compression motor (9:1) that is all-bore or a 422/427 and then use my current heads after they are freshened up a little. My current cam is also all wrong for a SC setup.

 

I've just completed a ATI install on my 01/ Z06. The biggest problem I had was air cleaner shroud to SC alignment which was solved by drilling out the rivets & repostion to fit. I also didnt like the way the lower y-pipe connected
to the SC outlet which involved the use of two 3" molded hoses. I welded a 15
degree short elbow to the y-pipe & used only one of the supplied hoses. I also redid the lower hoses for added ground clearences by welding togather
manderel bent 2.5 pipe sections & eliminated more hose sections which made
a cleaner appearing job also. This all took a lot of extra time as you can imagine. What I was most concerned about was the programming which thankfully went without a hitch. The results have been very gratifying so far
car pulls most hard after 5500 to redline. Bottom end power seems unchanged
My snap on scanner indicates no knock & ample fuel. I will have to say that this was a very challanging install. That requires a lot of patience. But well worth the effort. In my opinion this is the most bang for the buck. All the rest of the add on's available are a waste of money & could never equal the results of forced induction. Regards Lou Czarnota ( Lou,s Automotive ) :seeya

 

Ok guys, final notes...

I got the install finished up several days ago as I thought and made a 350 mile round trip run from GA to NC for the weekend. Everything is working great.

I had to run out to purchase a new, slightly larger, hose clamp for the surge valve install. Although the existing clamp snugly fit over the hose as shipped, there just wasn't enough clearance/slack to get the hose/clamp combo over the bulge in the intercooler pipe it was meant to attach to. This "clamp slightly too small" issue happened one other time during the install, but luckily I had the necessary clamp laying around. In the end, be prepared to make a trip to the parts store for a few spares.

The tubing attaching the MAF and throttle body required lots of trimming to get the air bridge to lay flat against the radiator cover. The cover now sits a bit higher due to the new intake ducting between the fan shroud air intake and Procharger unit. I will probably revisit this several more times to get it just right.

On my '98, the top o-ring on every injector remained stuck in the fuel rail after removing the injector. Be sure to pick/pry these out before installing the new injectors with the supplied fresh o-rings.

This was brought up as a potential problem on another thread several weeks ago... I had a TTS Powerloader II program installed and had NO problems loading the Superchips program right over the top of it.

The installation manual states no oil ships in the Prochager unit and that it must be filled before operating for the first time. The dipstick could use some improvement, but showed some fluid/oil in my unit. However, I couldn't get a consistent reading and figured it may have just been a small amount of assembly lube/oil. I filled it with the recommended and provided full bottle of Prochager oil. After checking the dipstick again, it was at least at the max level so I ended up removing approximately 1.5 ounces before it looked like the level receded to halfway between max and min. For you guys who've already completed an install, was the Procharger unit filled, dry, or partially filled?

Tomorrow, I'll get back under the car for a thorough check up to make sure everything is in order.