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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 10:37 AM
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Anyone running a tick mc that had issues with the threaded rod rubbing the stock return spring? If so, what was your solution? I am beyond frustrated with trying to adjust everything properly. Help!!!!
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BHart1360
Anyone running a tick mc that had issues with the threaded rod rubbing the stock return spring? If so, what was your solution? I am beyond frustrated with trying to adjust everything properly. Help!!!!
Get rid of the spring. It's not really a return spring, it's a pedal assist spring that actually helps when you push the pedal down. IIRC, the directions that came with my Tick master specifically stated to not re-install the spring. Not an issue for me as I removed the spring and tossed it long before I installed the Tick. HTH

Jimbo
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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I have a very similar setup as far as mods to my car. Did you have someone look at the throwout bearing under the car as you were adjusting it to make sure it was releasing correctly? I notched my inspection cover before installation of the clutch so that I could remove part of it without dropping the headers.
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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I threw out the spring also.

I adjusted the MC without observing the throwout...just did by feel initially and then did a little fine tuning after driving the car a bit. That was a year ago and I haven't adjusted it since.
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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Unfortunately, I lost my instructions before installation. I popped it off an hour or so ago and it has made a huge improvement. Thanks for all of the help. I have too much experience pulling the drivetrain and do not wish to repeat that chore.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BHart1360
Unfortunately, I lost my instructions before installation. I popped it off an hour or so ago and it has made a huge improvement. Thanks for all of the help. I have too much experience pulling the drivetrain and do not wish to repeat that chore.
You got that right! Alot of work to do a clutch on a C5/6. My Tick has been in the car for close to a year now and it hasn't refused a high rpm shift since. Money and time well spent for sure!

Jimbo
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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Jimbo, aside from a few more ci, your car is set up very similar to mine, as least as far as what you have listed. How has it run at the dragstrip and/or auto x? What tires, pressures, launch style do you use? I'm guessing you have seen 10's based on your logo. I have only run mid 11's, although it was 98 degrees and 95% humidity on a track that is known for being slick. I do not have the upgraded diff or any of the braces. I'm trying to sort this thing out to get a nice triathlon car, so to speak. I have a lot of wheelhop at launch on street tires. Have not tried the dr's yet. I have koni's all around that are adjustable, but not much knowledge of where I should start. I raced fox mustangs for years, and could turn 1.6 60 fts on street tires in it all day, but the vette is a lot different. Any info is appreciated.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BHart1360
Jimbo, aside from a few more ci, your car is set up very similar to mine, as least as far as what you have listed. How has it run at the dragstrip and/or auto x? What tires, pressures, launch style do you use? I'm guessing you have seen 10's based on your logo. I have only run mid 11's, although it was 98 degrees and 95% humidity on a track that is known for being slick. I do not have the upgraded diff or any of the braces. I'm trying to sort this thing out to get a nice triathlon car, so to speak. I have a lot of wheelhop at launch on street tires. Have not tried the dr's yet. I have koni's all around that are adjustable, but not much knowledge of where I should start. I raced fox mustangs for years, and could turn 1.6 60 fts on street tires in it all day, but the vette is a lot different. Any info is appreciated.
Brian,
I'll try to answer your questions without getting too long-winded.
I don't auto/x, so can't say anything about that, but I do drag race a few times a year and try to do a few HPDE's also.
So far the best ET I've got with the car is a 10.7 on a 1.54 short time, that's using a CCW bias ply drag pack with 26x11.5x16 MT ET streets at 14 psi or so launching at 4-4500 and slipping the clutch out of the hole. The car has more in it as the tune is still a bit rich, and I'm not powershifting it. Here is a quick video of the run:
http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...enge107run.flv
Suspension is basically stock except for '04 Z06 shocks and lowered on stock bolts. I have 3.42 gears in my diff, but have hardened everything in there including a billett pinion carrier and my trans has been upgraded to level5 specs by a local friend of mine.
I only go to the track at rentals usually so I don't get booted for no cage. (I refuse to cut up my custom interior).
The car is an absolute beast on the street and the road course and regularly kills C6Z's.
I strongly recommend that you invest in a bias ply set-up for the strip as it is MUCH easier on driveline components and very easy to keep the car in the groove even at the big end when you're running at 130+.
All of the driveline parts I broke were from using drag radials and trying to launch too hard.
You might try softening up your rear shocks next time you go to the track and it might also be a good idea to loosen up the front shocks to allow for better weight transfer along with removing the front sway bar.
That should get rid of your wheel hop problem and greatly improve your short times.
Not knowing what kind of clutch you have, I can only say that most twins are not easy to slip, but it can be done with a fair amount of practice. My Tex single disc is actually pretty easy to slip, but it still took ALOT of practice on my part to get decent launches out of it.
Lots of luck, keep us informed of your progress.

Jimbo
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