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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 08:14 PM
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Default real wheel hub replacement

Need to replace a rear hub...grease all over the wheel well. Anyone have tips on gettting the hub off without the factory tool? Also any recommendations?
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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also any recommendations on vendors and pricing?
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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If you have grease all over have you checked the outer cv shaft boot and does it have a split? dont sound like a hub. I just change my right rear last weekend for bearing noise. I had no grease all over. the only time I have had gease is a torn boot on the cv
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by daleweible
If you have grease all over have you checked the outer cv shaft boot and does it have a split? dont sound like a hub. I just change my right rear last weekend for bearing noise. I had no grease all over. the only time I have had gease is a torn boot on the cv

could be the boot but have not found a tear. I need to get it off and am looking for info on seperating the hub from the axle (without the factory tool) - which I can buy but just looking for someone's home solution.
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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Do hubs ever wear out in low mileage cars? (Mine has 45k, 2001Z) What are the symptoms?
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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I also have an 2001, Mine started making noise on sharp left hand turns [right bearing] about 45000 miles, After a rear end alignment it made noise all the time. Changed the hub/bearing assembly noise gone. about a 3 hour job.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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are you sure about a factory tool? I saw a thread last night on another forum where the guy said the key is to activate the parking brake several times beforehand, then the hub will come off easily once the 3 T55 bolts are removed from the backside....you will have to dissassemble part of the suspension first for clearance.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by $$$frumnuttin'
are you sure about a factory tool? I saw a thread last night on another forum where the guy said the key is to activate the parking brake several times beforehand, then the hub will come off easily once the 3 T55 bolts are removed from the backside....you will have to dissassemble part of the suspension first for clearance.
Thanks for getting us back on topic. I am not sure. I have the factory manuals and have disassempled the rear end before (replaced the diff) but never removed the outside of teh axles from the hub. The factory manual shows a tool that bolts to 3 lugs and has a pressure bolt threaded in the middle (like a balancer puller) - by the way a balancer puller is to small. I have not removed the torx bolts but will.....
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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Well, you may call this off topic too. To sling black/bluish grease onto the wheel wells, would only require a hard to see very small hole in the boot. Ask me how I know. After driving and then let set for a while the while the grease was still hot in the boots, the grease would drip and poole at the bottom inside barrel of the wheel.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Well, you may call this off topic too. To sling black/bluish grease onto the wheel wells, would only require a hard to see very small hole in the boot. Ask me how I know. After driving and then let set for a while the while the grease was still hot in the boots, the grease would drip and poole at the bottom inside barrel of the wheel.
Hey Bob, it was worth it though with those coilovers, right?
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 02:14 PM
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...

Last edited by $$$frumnuttin'; Mar 21, 2010 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
Well, you may call this off topic too. To sling black/bluish grease onto the wheel wells, would only require a hard to see very small hole in the boot. Ask me how I know. After driving and then let set for a while the while the grease was still hot in the boots, the grease would drip and poole at the bottom inside barrel of the wheel.
No, I get that. I have to remove the axle to figure out if it is the boot for sure. either way I have to get it apart. I think I have found a link that will help. Here it is for others who may be interested.

www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/C5_Rear_Wheel_Bearing.doc

This guy did a good job of documenting....
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 02:43 PM
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VJjack04, I agree, that is a great, detailed, pictured ,"How to". I was under the impression to replace the axle nut w/ new & not re-use the old? Now, let's get to it, and fix your baby! ha. ha.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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I did not use any special tool, just asd VJjack04 did, used a yok[ set on 3 lug studs] threaded in the center and pushed the axle free, it did not push hard either as I just used my hand to push it out of the hub.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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I left the nut on the end and whacked the damn thing with a hammer and it popped right out... No problem.

I had to remove the Hub just to replace the stupid parking brake shoe retainer clip! Stupid....
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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Did you used the same axle nut or a new one, I reused mine, yet read to replace it?
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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Same one, I wasn't aware it was a one time use nut. I seriously doubt there will be any ill effects from reusing the nut IMO...

Tim
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tstar
Same one, I wasn't aware it was a one time use nut. I seriously doubt there will be any ill effects from reusing the nut IMO...

Tim
We tested this joint in the fastener lab when this design was developed. It was concluded the nut could be used up to 5 times before any noticeable drop in tension occurs.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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Cool! Four more to go!

Thanx!

Tim
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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I seriously doubt the bearing is bad. Theres minimul grease inside the bearing and its Pink/WHITE.

Heres a sample pic:





You have a loose or bad CV Joint boot. That grease is GREEN!
\

BC
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