HELP ASAP!!!! Break issues!!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: League City Texas
UPDATE-problem resolved HELP ASAP!!!! Break issues!!!
UPDATE... I think we narrowed the issue to the left caliper. It locks down the pads, will not release, and the pedal stays stuck. Both pistons cannot be compressed at the same time. We believe that the brake lights are on because of the brake pedal not being released. Car would not move under any circumstances until we removed the pads on the left side, so there is no pads on the left side as of now. Wheel on right side spins as it should. Dont worry, car will not be driven until we get problem fixed.
Does this sound indicative of bad caliper? Please chime in with advice. Thanks for all the inputs.
Gents, need help!!! Just swapped brake pads and rotors, nothing out of the ordinary was noted. Reinstalled tires, full pedal on brakes. The problem is that the brakes locking the wheels and the brake light on the car are on with no one touching the pedal. The brake lines were never disconnected and have removed rotor/pad assy twice just to see if we did anything wrong. We have not bled the brakes, since I do not feel this is an issue.
Does this sound indicative of bad caliper? Please chime in with advice. Thanks for all the inputs.
Gents, need help!!! Just swapped brake pads and rotors, nothing out of the ordinary was noted. Reinstalled tires, full pedal on brakes. The problem is that the brakes locking the wheels and the brake light on the car are on with no one touching the pedal. The brake lines were never disconnected and have removed rotor/pad assy twice just to see if we did anything wrong. We have not bled the brakes, since I do not feel this is an issue.
Last edited by rr77753; Mar 22, 2010 at 07:51 PM. Reason: update
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Did you lubricate the caliper pin bolts,(hi temp silicone lubricant)so they will slide back & forth easily? I think that is where you might be binding.
After you enitial install completion did you:
W/the engine off,gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of it's travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds,then repeat this process untill a firm pedal is obtained; this will properly seat the caliper pistons& pads. This process worked for me when I change to new pads & rotors Hope this helps.
After you enitial install completion did you:
W/the engine off,gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of it's travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds,then repeat this process untill a firm pedal is obtained; this will properly seat the caliper pistons& pads. This process worked for me when I change to new pads & rotors Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: League City Texas
different issue now!!!
E-brake is off, brake lights still on. When we try to compress each brake piston, the other pushes out, that is the new issue. Front brakes were the ones replaced by the way. Tried disconnecting battery to see if that would reset something, but we are suspecting that the car is for some reason thinking that the brakes are being applied.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: League City Texas
No lose connectors noted. We put the old pads on l/h side, and to the caliper to go on, but now we have no pedal, and bakes grab to where car will not roll on steep incline in neutral. Disconnected battery again, to "reset" system. Brake lights are still on, and still believe that the key to the issue. Any opinions?
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 4
From: Tracy CA
UPDATE... I think we narrowed the issue to the left caliper. It locks down the pads, will not release, and the pedal stays stuck. Both pistons cannot be compressed at the same time. We believe that the brake lights are on because of the brake pedal not being released. Car would not move under any circumstances until we removed the pads on the left side, so there is no pads on the left side as of now. Wheel on right side spins as it should. Dont worry, car will not be driven until we get problem fixed.
Does this sound indicative of bad caliper? Please chime in with advice. Thanks for all the inputs.
Gents, need help!!! Just swapped brake pads and rotors, nothing out of the ordinary was noted. Reinstalled tires, full pedal on brakes. The problem is that the brakes locking the wheels and the brake light on the car are on with no one touching the pedal. The brake lines were never disconnected and have removed rotor/pad assy twice just to see if we did anything wrong. We have not bled the brakes, since I do not feel this is an issue.
Does this sound indicative of bad caliper? Please chime in with advice. Thanks for all the inputs.
Gents, need help!!! Just swapped brake pads and rotors, nothing out of the ordinary was noted. Reinstalled tires, full pedal on brakes. The problem is that the brakes locking the wheels and the brake light on the car are on with no one touching the pedal. The brake lines were never disconnected and have removed rotor/pad assy twice just to see if we did anything wrong. We have not bled the brakes, since I do not feel this is an issue.
The lack of release of the hydraulics are either the caliper or the master cylinder. Pull the caliper completely off the car and "carefully" use compressed air to pop the cups out of the housing. There's really not much to these things. Just an inner seal and a dust boot.
I once had a mechanic use the wrong fluid in the brake hydraulics and the whole thing locked up. The master wasn't letting the fluid return to the reservior and the whole thing pressurized. That was Class A Stupid on their part. Part of the $4.35/hour crowd.
Now I do all my own work.
Good luck!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Try disconnecting your L/F rubber brake hose at the frame end and see if the pistons retract in the caliper and release the rotor. If that rubber hose has split/swollen/deteriorated internally, it can act as a check valve and not relieve pressure.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: League City Texas
problem solved!!!
Damnedest thing, very embarrassed actually. The thing that was making the brake pedal stick (and brakes stick as well) was actually on the pedal itself. On the drivers side, the cover that keeps the electrical components hidden dropped and kept brake pedal depressed. Never thought to look under there, except I want to show him where the brake light switch was located, and sure enough, the cover was lodged against the upper portion of the pedal.
