Ok I just posted help with the clutch staying on the floor after having my full bot-on's and a big cam installed. Now I have bought a ram Hd good for 650 hp ram billit steel flywheel and a ram slave cyl. Is there anything else I will need.How hard is this to change. And can this be done in the garage with Jack stands.the shop wants 600 bucks for labor.

Once again
thanks to everyone for your help

 

It can be done. Im about to do mine. Search for a DYI from "DOPE"

 

Put in a speed bleeder while you are there - makes bleeding it very easy.

 

I would replace the pilot bearing which is inside the crank and inspect the living HE double L out of that rear cover and seal as they are prone to leak over time. $30 in parts to do it all while you are right there, probably $500+ to do it after you put the car back together.

 

In the DIY guides I think they tell you the bottom of the rear end needs to be up 23" to slide the rear end back and you need a lot of room behind the car to pull it back out of the way. Here's one guy's way of doing it in the NCM parking lot

 

Oh I cant wait

 

^^ That's funny ^^

 

I bought an aluminum atv jack from sears which worked great for craddling transmision. You should have 2 floor jacks on hand and redundant jack stands and blocking in case the car falls off first stands. Be careful an old co-worker of mine just died after being crushed under his car out in his driveway. He was only 30 years old. It's not a hard job with patience and air tools. BTW don't use an impact gun on rear craddle, the backing plates on the studs can bend alowing stud to spin so you wont be able to tighten nuts. Read up on this job. Lots of posts. I put a Tick clutch master in mine too. Nice piece.

 

Now I've seen everything. I think I would have called a flatbed. Notice the puddle on the left side. Fun!

 

Yes it can be done in your garage on jackstands.

A new slave cylinder, speed bleeder for the clutch and pilot bearing are an absolute.

New ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts would also be a good idea. Make sure that you tighten them down to the correct lb. spec and also in the correct order. If you don't have that info, I can look it up in my shop manual later and post it for you. Make sure you have a torque wrench, a 3/8" drive Craftsman one that only went up to 74 lbs. was fine for us. I think they're about $65 or so at Sears.

You will have to rent a couple of tools such as a slide hammer and bearing removal tool to get the pilot bearing out. They're available at Auto Zone.

It would also be a good time to get an aftermarket shift if that's something you've thought about. The shifter has to come out anyway. It's also a good time to do the tunnel plate and get a thicker one. Tunnel plate is held on by about 2.5 million little bolts.

The toughest part will probably be getting the torque tube back into the front.

Buy 2 pilot bearings while you're at it in case you mess one up. They're only about $12 each for an OEM piece.

 

ARP flywheel bolts do not clear ALL clutch assemblies.....and new stock bolts are more than sufficient.

 

Thank you, I did not know that.

I think that's something I should've looked into before I did mine even though I went with the LS7 clutch/flywheel/pressure plate.