HVAC Control Panel Dead
After sitting dormant for the winter months, I reconnected the battery and went for a drive in my '99. After a while I noticed that the entire Climate Control panel was blank. Nothing works. None of the buttons or rotary controls produce any reaction. After a few minutes with the ignition on, the indicator lamp in the Front De-fog button comes on, and stays on. Cycling the button does nothing. Even turning off the ignition will not turn off the indicator. The only thing that will is disconnecting the battery, which if I don't (or if I don't have charger connected) will run down the battery.
Using the DIC to look at the codes, I noticed that one error code says something to the effect of "HVAC -- No Com". If the HVAC control has lost comunication with the BCM (or whatever), why would this turn on the Front De-fog button indicator?
This is a low milage car (40,000) that spends winters in a warm garage, not a prime candidate for grounding/corrosion issues. That is where I will first look problems (after checking all fuses). I was just hoping the symptoms might be unique enough to point to something specific.
Thanks,
Steve
After sitting dormant for the winter months, I reconnected the battery and went for a drive in my '99. After a while I noticed that the entire Climate Control panel was blank. Nothing works. None of the buttons or rotary controls produce any reaction. After a few minutes with the ignition on, the indicator lamp in the Front De-fog button comes on, and stays on. Cycling the button does nothing. Even turning off the ignition will not turn off the indicator. The only thing that will is disconnecting the battery, which if I don't (or if I don't have charger connected) will run down the battery.
Using the DIC to look at the codes, I noticed that one error code says something to the effect of "HVAC -- No Com". If the HVAC control has lost comunication with the BCM (or whatever), why would this turn on the Front De-fog button indicator?
This is a low milage car (40,000) that spends winters in a warm garage, not a prime candidate for grounding/corrosion issues. That is where I will first look problems (after checking all fuses). I was just hoping the symptoms might be unique enough to point to something specific.
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
I've inspected the underhood grounds and they seem to be OK. I've also pulled the codes and for the HVAC Module and I get no numeric codes, instead I get a message saying "No Comm.". I assume this means the HVAC control is not communicating with the BCM? I think I read somewhere that the Key Fob Receiver uses the same serial bus/port, and it works fine, if thats of any help.
Anyone got any ideas of what to do next?
Steve
Once the nicer weather showed up here I decided to put all back together because I wanted to drive it. To my surprise it worked... for about 4 days and then it went out again. I've check and cleaned up all of the grounds under the hood and at the bottom of the A-pillar. I've checked the wires in the door jams, checked the BCM for water damage. I don't know what else to do.
I've scoured these forums with no luck. It seems that the only advice is to look at the electrical thread. The only post I've seen where someone has had somewhat similar issues with the HVAC (and more) was fixed by either cleaning up or replacing the ignition switch.
I would like to know if there is a way to test the HVAC unit to see if it is the problem or the problem lies somewhere else. (Sorry for being so long winded)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts



Once the nicer weather showed up here I decided to put all back together because I wanted to drive it. To my surprise it worked... for about 4 days and then it went out again. I've check and cleaned up all of the grounds under the hood and at the bottom of the A-pillar. I've checked the wires in the door jams, checked the BCM for water damage. I don't know what else to do.
I've scoured these forums with no luck. It seems that the only advice is to look at the electrical thread. The only post I've seen where someone has had somewhat similar issues with the HVAC (and more) was fixed by either cleaning up or replacing the ignition switch.
I would like to know if there is a way to test the HVAC unit to see if it is the problem or the problem lies somewhere else. (Sorry for being so long winded)
I can take some pics of the test wiring if you'd like... LMK
I can take some pics of the test wiring if you'd like... LMK
If the HVAC Controller bench tests OK I figure I might as well go the extra step and take a look at the ignition switch. Out of all of the posts I've read on this board, that is the only thing I haven't checked out. I will be sure to post my results. (Sorry Steve if I seemed to hijack your thread.)
Thanks again guys, might be a day or two before I can get this done.
Steve


Let me check my Core stock and if I have a good one I'd like to do a swap so I can test out one of these totally "dead" HVACs with one of you and check this out...
Tim
Let me check my Core stock and if I have a good one I'd like to do a swap so I can test out one of these totally "dead" HVACs with one of you and check this out...
Tim
Steve


Once you do that and reconnect the harness between the Display board and the Power board, you can reconnect your test leads and power it up again. Then push on the "241" resistors on the power board, your display should come back to life. Those need reflowed....
Once you can see what the HVAC is actually doing we may be able to determine what's going on with it... I can run down several things that happen, for instance;
Push the AC button, it's orange LED indicator should come on for about 2 seconds then flash 5 times and go out.
Defroster's indicator LEDs should both light up when they are pushed.
You should be able to see all the different air flow Modes show on the display when you push the Mode button several times.
The Driver's Temp dial should change the desired Set Temp as you turn the ****.
You should see the Fan Speed changing on the Display when pushing the fan speed rocker switch.
The Auto button should, well make it go into Auto!

Tim
I've taken the unit apart again and done every physical thing I can to try and re-make a broken circuit, pushed, wiggled, and sometimes pulled on all components. Even tried flexing the board a little. No difference. Is there any test point on the board where I could check for correct supply voltage? I doubt that a pinout of either IC would be available on the internet, they're probably proprietary GM/Delco part #'s.
I was going to attach an image, but apparently I'm not allowed to.
Steve













