More clutch problems
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,658
Likes: 1
From: NJ
More clutch problems
Looking for suggestions on how to diagnose my most current problem.
Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch
Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.
Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)
Thanks in advance everyone.
Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch
Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.
Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)
Thanks in advance everyone.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,464
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Looking for suggestions on how to diagnose my most current problem.
Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch
Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.
Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)
Thanks in advance everyone.
Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch
Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.
Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)
Thanks in advance everyone.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9,106
Likes: 166
From: PA
Jon i'm sorry to hear all this. You will have to take out the header bolts to swing the headers back to get the inspection cover out. Hope it ends up being something you dont have to remove the driveline for again. Keep us posted.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 485
From: Moberly, Mo
I have a simular issue, no problems getting into gear at normal speeds. Mine doesn't want to shift a high rpm. Just put a new spec stage 2+, we've tried getting all the air out of the system, but, still seem to be having a problem. The clutch has a lot of holding grip for sure. Can't even come close to power shifting it, just seems like its all hydraulic. I have about 800 miles on it, I was planning to go to the track this weekend. Just don't feel confident about pulling gears until I get this straightened out. We are going to try and bleed it again next week, I'm getting the tune cleaned up today on the dyno. The clutch will actually hold so well it bogs the car at 3500 with the drag radial. It can handle the hp.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 6
From: Alamosa CO
I have a simular issue, no problems getting into gear at normal speeds. Mine doesn't want to shift a high rpm. Just put a new spec stage 2+, we've tried getting all the air out of the system, but, still seem to be having a problem. The clutch has a lot of holding grip for sure. Can't even come close to power shifting it, just seems like its all hydraulic. I have about 800 miles on it, I was planning to go to the track this weekend. Just don't feel confident about pulling gears until I get this straightened out. We are going to try and bleed it again next week, I'm getting the tune cleaned up today on the dyno. The clutch will actually hold so well it bogs the car at 3500 with the drag radial. It can handle the hp.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 6
From: Alamosa CO
Looking for suggestions on how to diagnose my most current problem.
Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch
Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.
Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)
Thanks in advance everyone.
Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch
Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.
Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)
Thanks in advance everyone.
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.
Jimbo
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 485
From: Moberly, Mo
It doesn't have a tick it has a ram adjustable master cylinder, new slave, spec stage 2+, flywheel, throw out bearing. It was all new when installed, shifts great up to about 4500, above that sometimes you can't even force it in.
Last edited by 99vetteran; Apr 3, 2010 at 09:11 PM.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 6
From: Alamosa CO
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 485
From: Moberly, Mo
Hey, I appreciate all the info your providing. I've heard many on this forum praise the tick for its ability to make these clutches perform as they should. So, thanks for the input and I might have to go that route.
greg
greg
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,658
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Jon,
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.
Jimbo
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.
Jimbo
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
My friend had this happen a few times also. Sometimes you can push the clutch in and bump the starter and it will pop free. His broke free twice and is still working today.
Jon,
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.
Jimbo
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.
Jimbo
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,658
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
Just be sure to have room in front or behind you as it might jump some
With lower milage on the metalic clutches the high spots on the disk seem to build up a lot of heat during slip, then tend to weld to the flywheel/pressure plate. I don't think my friend has had any problems since then. I'd work on that some before tearing everything apart for sure.
With lower milage on the metalic clutches the high spots on the disk seem to build up a lot of heat during slip, then tend to weld to the flywheel/pressure plate. I don't think my friend has had any problems since then. I'd work on that some before tearing everything apart for sure.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
If your car is refusing to shift at high rpm you need to install a Tick master cylinder. It will fix the problem permanently. It worked for me and lots of others. Bite the bullet, spend the money and do it. The install is a PITA, but worth every minute of your time,,,,end of story!
Tick works for me too. 
No pedal problems.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 12,387
Likes: 2,909
From: Fort Worth, Texas
I have a simular issue, no problems getting into gear at normal speeds. Mine doesn't want to shift a high rpm. Just put a new spec stage 2+, we've tried getting all the air out of the system, but, still seem to be having a problem. The clutch has a lot of holding grip for sure. Can't even come close to power shifting it, just seems like its all hydraulic. I have about 800 miles on it, I was planning to go to the track this weekend. Just don't feel confident about pulling gears until I get this straightened out. We are going to try and bleed it again next week, I'm getting the tune cleaned up today on the dyno. The clutch will actually hold so well it bogs the car at 3500 with the drag radial. It can handle the hp.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,658
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Jon,
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.
Jimbo
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.
Jimbo
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 6
From: Alamosa CO
Thanks for this suggestion. I tried bumping the starter with the car in gear and the clutch broke free. Took it for a spin and everything seems normal. Called up the shop that took care of the clutch install and they said that while rare, it is entirely possible for the clutch to weld itself together, especially while hotlapping(which i was doing).
Glad it was an easy fix. (no more hot lapping) Jimbo
