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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Default More clutch problems

Looking for suggestions on how to diagnose my most current problem.

Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch

Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.

Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)

Thanks in advance everyone.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by j0n
Looking for suggestions on how to diagnose my most current problem.

Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch

Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.

Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)

Thanks in advance everyone.
What type of clutch?
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
What type of clutch?
Monster stage 4
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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Jon i'm sorry to hear all this. You will have to take out the header bolts to swing the headers back to get the inspection cover out. Hope it ends up being something you dont have to remove the driveline for again. Keep us posted.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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I have a simular issue, no problems getting into gear at normal speeds. Mine doesn't want to shift a high rpm. Just put a new spec stage 2+, we've tried getting all the air out of the system, but, still seem to be having a problem. The clutch has a lot of holding grip for sure. Can't even come close to power shifting it, just seems like its all hydraulic. I have about 800 miles on it, I was planning to go to the track this weekend. Just don't feel confident about pulling gears until I get this straightened out. We are going to try and bleed it again next week, I'm getting the tune cleaned up today on the dyno. The clutch will actually hold so well it bogs the car at 3500 with the drag radial. It can handle the hp.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 99vetteran
I have a simular issue, no problems getting into gear at normal speeds. Mine doesn't want to shift a high rpm. Just put a new spec stage 2+, we've tried getting all the air out of the system, but, still seem to be having a problem. The clutch has a lot of holding grip for sure. Can't even come close to power shifting it, just seems like its all hydraulic. I have about 800 miles on it, I was planning to go to the track this weekend. Just don't feel confident about pulling gears until I get this straightened out. We are going to try and bleed it again next week, I'm getting the tune cleaned up today on the dyno. The clutch will actually hold so well it bogs the car at 3500 with the drag radial. It can handle the hp.
If your car is refusing to shift at high rpm you need to install a Tick master cylinder. It will fix the problem permanently. It worked for me and lots of others. Bite the bullet, spend the money and do it. The install is a PITA, but worth every minute of your time,,,,end of story!
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by j0n
Looking for suggestions on how to diagnose my most current problem.

Background -
1999 FRC
bolt-on mods
new hi-perf clutch installed and properly broken in
New slave installed with clutch

Took the car to the track for the first time since the clutch and car appeared to be performing well. On the third pass it seemed like I missed the 1-2 shift but after trying to put the car in 4th to coast the rest of the 1/4mi I discovered that I could not get into any gear. Using rev-matching I got the car into gear and then pushed the clutch in, but the clutch would not disengage.

Clutch fluid is full, looks good, and is properly bled. There are also no leaks that I can see. My next step is to try and remove the inspection cover for any obvious clutch damage(BTW is this possible with kooks longtubes?)

Thanks in advance everyone.
Jon,
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.

Jimbo
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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It doesn't have a tick it has a ram adjustable master cylinder, new slave, spec stage 2+, flywheel, throw out bearing. It was all new when installed, shifts great up to about 4500, above that sometimes you can't even force it in.

Last edited by 99vetteran; Apr 3, 2010 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 99vetteran
It doesn't have a tick it has a ram adjustable master cylinder, new slave, spec stage 2+, flywheel, throw out bearing. It was all new when installed, shifts great up to about 4500, above that sometimes you can't even force it in.
The other aftermarket adjustable master cylinders are nothing but a modified stock master with an adjustable actuator rod. (Ram, McLeod, etc.) The Tick is a larger bore, all metal Tilton unit that moves a greater volume of fluid. I fought the same problem you are having for 2+ years and the only thing that fixed it was the Tick. Just trying to help out, and no, I'm not affiliated with Tick Performance in any way!
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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Hey, I appreciate all the info your providing. I've heard many on this forum praise the tick for its ability to make these clutches perform as they should. So, thanks for the input and I might have to go that route.

greg
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 11:04 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ZZOOM06
Jon,
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.

Jimbo
If I sober up I will try and start pulling the exhaust so that I cant drop the inspection cover tonight. Will keep everyone up to date with the progress.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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tick performance adjustable master cylinder fixed my issues with high rpm shifting as well.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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My friend had this happen a few times also. Sometimes you can push the clutch in and bump the starter and it will pop free. His broke free twice and is still working today.

Originally Posted by ZZOOM06
Jon,
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.

Jimbo
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by slow ride
My friend had this happen a few times also. Sometimes you can push the clutch in and bump the starter and it will pop free. His broke free twice and is still working today.
I'll give that a shot before I tear into the car tomorrow.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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Just be sure to have room in front or behind you as it might jump some With lower milage on the metalic clutches the high spots on the disk seem to build up a lot of heat during slip, then tend to weld to the flywheel/pressure plate. I don't think my friend has had any problems since then. I'd work on that some before tearing everything apart for sure.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZOOM06
If your car is refusing to shift at high rpm you need to install a Tick master cylinder. It will fix the problem permanently. It worked for me and lots of others. Bite the bullet, spend the money and do it. The install is a PITA, but worth every minute of your time,,,,end of story!
Tick works for me too. No pedal problems.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 99vetteran
I have a simular issue, no problems getting into gear at normal speeds. Mine doesn't want to shift a high rpm. Just put a new spec stage 2+, we've tried getting all the air out of the system, but, still seem to be having a problem. The clutch has a lot of holding grip for sure. Can't even come close to power shifting it, just seems like its all hydraulic. I have about 800 miles on it, I was planning to go to the track this weekend. Just don't feel confident about pulling gears until I get this straightened out. We are going to try and bleed it again next week, I'm getting the tune cleaned up today on the dyno. The clutch will actually hold so well it bogs the car at 3500 with the drag radial. It can handle the hp.
Get that fixed before you go to the track for sure, otherwise you'll end up damaging the synchros...fwiw had the problem with a centerforce that turned out to have a mismachined pressure plate, but didn't find that out till after having to have the tranny rebuilt...now I double check the run out before doing any clutch install
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZOOM06
Jon,
Same thing happened to one of my friends at the Z06 Fest drags 2 years ago. He made a few passes and then it acted up after a burnout before his next pass. Turned out the disc welded itself to the pressure plate during that burnout. He was running a Ram Powergrip HD
single disc at the time. His car is an '01 Zo6 with a Lingenfelter 383 and 3.90 gears making around 475/450 at the tires.
I hope that's not your problem, but the symptoms sure sound identical.
Good luck and let us know what's up.

Jimbo
Thanks for this suggestion. I tried bumping the starter with the car in gear and the clutch broke free. Took it for a spin and everything seems normal. Called up the shop that took care of the clutch install and they said that while rare, it is entirely possible for the clutch to weld itself together, especially while hotlapping(which i was doing).
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by j0n
Thanks for this suggestion. I tried bumping the starter with the car in gear and the clutch broke free. Took it for a spin and everything seems normal. Called up the shop that took care of the clutch install and they said that while rare, it is entirely possible for the clutch to weld itself together, especially while hotlapping(which i was doing).
Great news Jon! Glad it was an easy fix. (no more hot lapping)

Jimbo
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ZZOOM06
Great news Jon! Glad it was an easy fix. (no more hot lapping)

Jimbo
Bahhhh hot-lapping FTW! I made my 3 passes that night within 14min
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