Well, covered all important appearing electrical components and rinsed about 1/4 inch of pollen out of my engine compartment. But now weird electrical stuff. Won't crank. No trunk release. Weird messages on dash "Reduced Engine Power". Any thoughts, suggestions, hope??? This is an '03 Z06, Lingenfelter supercharged, garage queen with only 8800 miles living in a warm climate and driven only on sunny weekends so doubtful any corrosion. HELP.

Thanks all.

 

hmm...never had an issue with my 99, the 02 or the 07 by giving them a quick hosing off. I cannot imagine what you did.

 

check the passenger floor,carpet close to the firewall, and see if it's wet.

 

No moisture there. I also checked behind the panel and no moisture near the electronics behind it.....

 

pull your codes if you can.
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

 

Alright, I unhooked the battery, waited and reconnected. Trunk release now works, radio now works, everything electrical seems to work but still engine does not crank. No power even going to starter. Crazy messages also gone. But no crank...

 

Are you saying the starter won't turn the engine over?

Not sure if anything is still wet but I'd start by getting a leaf blower into every nook and cranny you can. Also check the connections to the TB. A damp connection there will cause some of the problems you listed.

 

Pulled the codes. These are all historical (and there are a bunch), there were no current codes.

28TCS:
C1221H
C1222H
C1248H

58SDM:
U1000H
U1064H

AO-LDCM:
B2283H
B2284H
U1064H

AI-RDCM:
B2283H
B2285H
B2265H
U1064

A6SCM:
U1255H

 

All the electrical fires up when I turn the key but absolutely no mechanicals.

What is the "TB"?????????

Thanks for the help guys, getting a little nervous here and seeing dollar signs floating across the horizon.

 

First thing that you need to do is change your forum handle to " NOT faster-than-jeff's"

TB stands for Throttle body. Heres a schematic for you:



If you have a manual tranny, turn the key to START and push the clutch all the way to the safety switch and then let up. Each time you make and break The safety switch, you should hear that relay (theft deterrent relay) in the circuit click.

Clear the DTCs using the IPC DTC Routine and see if any come back.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!






Bill

 

Bill-

I'm changing my user name to NO-GO.

No relay click when depressing/releasing clutch.

I posted my codes in a post up above.

Thanks.

 

Cleared and pulled codes again. Got one current-

40BCM
B0432HC

Any thoughts???

 

Alright guys. Miracle.

Had the wife help me push the car into the garage. Got back in and she fired right up.

Weird but true. Maybe whatever was wet dried up... I did blow out the whole engine compartment with a leaf blower as suggested. Took a while to dry up???

Whatever it was, I will never let water anywhere near my engine compartment again.

Thanks for the help.

I'm faster-than-jeff's again.

 

I rinse my engine every other ime I wash the car. I have never had a problem. I blast my truck engine damn near every time I take it to the wash.

 

Weird, ain't it. I was very careful and covered things. Kept spray away form what I thought were critical areas. Don't know. Some sort of aquatic demon or gremlin. Seems to have resolved spontaneously with time.

 

If you get water under the intake manifold (theres a space there) iy can seep into the wells for the KNOCK SENSORs. If it does, it will short them out and you will have to replace them.

Heres a picture of the wells on the engine vally cover plate



Heres one with the rubber plugs that cover them. There not installed in the holes very tight Theres also a lot of dirt!!!:



BC