i keep reading about people leaving this out when they do their clutch installs at home.

i've done a little searching and gathered some info, but not really enough. if i missed something please just point me in the right direction.

does anyone have more info or a hint/link to where it can be found. it would be nice if this would include what to do if the air gap is wrong as well.

 

??? What air gap are you talking about?

 

I think he means the gap between the disk and the pressure plate with the pedal depressed-mine was .035 on a new clutch install.
Check this when you've got the torque tube bolted up,and the hydraulics operative.

You can pretty much tell if your new clutch is going to work or not by doing this before you get the whole drivetrain reinstalled.

If there's no gap,or not enough gap,your clutch isn't going to disengage.Shimming the slave is about all you can do,or go with a Tick adjustable master.

 

Obtain some 10" long feeler gauges and measure the gap (in numerous locations around the fly wheel ) between the clutch disk and the pressure plate with the clutch peddle fully depressed. If the proper gap is not found all the way around the clutch disk and the pressure plate; you will not get full disengagement and that will effect shifting.

NOT ENOUGH gap may cause clutch spring and or throw out brg damage and or clutch slippage under full throttle power runs.

TOO MUCH Gap and you will have clutch peddle release and engagement just off of the floor and in some cases you will not have enough release and cause the car to creep forward when in gear and clutch depressed.

Us guys with a Duel Disk Clutches have a harder time measuring this gap but its possible.

BC

 

yea, that sounds about right. I've worked on everything except vettes it seems. Just tryin to get all my ducks in a row since these things are so touchy in the clutch dept.

all my questions have been answered except, what to do if you have an issue such as not enough gap.

isnt there something else you could do besides buying a new master?

 

What brand of clutch is made with such poor quality that you have to check it? I want to know so I can avoid them in the future. I realize there's always an exception but honestly quality assurance is job one with all auto parts manufacturers that I'm aware of. In fact it's so stringent that you have to be recertified yearly just to be able to sell OEM parts, but I don't know about aftermarket parts sellers. I'd think they'd bank their reputation on quality.

 

well based on my research, every manufacturer has sold a bad apple to someone on this forum. the c5/c6 corvette clutch is beyond touchy and must therefore be perfect or very near it to function up to standards in racing-type applications.

this is why im searching out all the details.

ive been modifying cars since i was 11 years old. when i say modifying i mean it.. not just shade tree bolt-ons.. and what have i learned? ALMOST NOTHING is a direct bolt in. So, from that experience, and with a strong background in building engines.. detail is the key to getting things right the first time. this saves money and headache. so thats why i ask about such a small detail, to ensure i get it right the first time. BELIEVE ME - you can't just trust the manufacturer to get it right for you, you gotta double check. pulling the torque tube and entire rear cradle out isnt my idea of fun.. even tho i have a lift.. id rather be doing a million other things.

as an example, on one of my stangs i had a SFI lakewood blowproof bellhousing where the center hole for the input shaft housing wasnt lined up properly with the center of the crankshaft. i took the time to set up the dial indicator and check it, and likely saved myself a tranny rebuild and poor clutch action in the process.

 

"Beyond touchy, racing applications", what does this mean? This is the type of commentary that perpetuates ignorance on this system. The stock clutch, if installed correctly using the manufacturers installation procedure and used within its design specifications will provide years of trouble-free service. I imagine that most after-market clutches if properly selected and installed correctly will also provide reliable service.

 

beyond touchy. i would accuse you of not reading much about clutches and corvettes but in all my searches i saw several of your replies. still i cant see your point. there is PROBLEM after PROBLEM with nearly every clutch offered for the vette on this forum. failure upon failure. from blow joe in his driveway to the "professional" at the speed shop. i cant tell you how many threads "i bought so and so clutch from so and so speed shop and trouble getting into reverse/ trouble high rpm shifting/ roasted a clutch at the track" type threads ive read etc. in most of your comments, you warn against tick masters and modified stock masters as if they are the devil. and chastise those that have used them with success. so again i ask you, WHAT IS YOUR POINT? not all of us can drive around with the stock clutch and have it live...

racing applications as in those of us who race our cars... in my specific case a street tired car that needs to ride the clutch a hair out of the hole to cut a good 60'. riding the clutch = heat. heat = bad for hydraulic system, hard on the clutch *makes setup all the more critical*

did you feel better for suggesting my ignorance? lets test this theory...

i coudlnt give 10 $hits about the stock clutch at this point. my stock clutch still works fine on the street, but not at the track - hence the pending replacement. im not interested in stock clutches or how they work. im interested in gettin the best clutch i can in my car for the least amount of $ and have it function as it should for as long as it should.

 

I have installed literally hundreds of clutches over the years in all types of vehicles and never once checked the "air gap" without a single problem.The clutch disengages fully or it doesnt,you adjust acordingly.

 

I've read a lot about these clutches, too much probably, especially post like yours. I do all of my own work including the clutch installation 2 years ago (stock LS6). My experience with the C-5 clutch are my own from working on it and using it under very hard conditions sometimes; not from reading pointless commentary.
With my latest modifications to the engine, it puts out approx 360 RWHP 370 RWTQ, well within the stock clutch's capability based on my acutal use of the clutch since I autocross my car at least once per month.
In my opinion most of problematic clutch installations on this forum have more to do with inadequate clutch selection and installation errors than with poor manufacturing quality.

 

im in the same boat, except i actually have checked this gap (without discussing it i just did it. something my ex-stepdad did when we put clutches in his car.. and it didnt click until after i started this thread)... but i never had any issues either. its only after reading so many threads on CF that i decided to ask and make sure i fully understood what others were talking about. just to be sure.

 

im more than capable of installing a clutch. i sling wrenches for a living... and have done so all my life. total performance clutch installs is only up around 15 at this point. so i dont do it every day, but ive done a whole lot more than most people. I have some other serious strengths that i wont get into. lets just say im confident in my abilities.

well considering my car puts out what your car does to the wheels stock.. and i drag race my car... we have two totally different goals in mind. my clutch works 100% smooth as butter on the street. on a sticky track surface - - - not so much. the end. upgrade time.

no need to explain myself to you any further, in fact i truly feel like ive wasted 10 minutes of my life so im stopping here.

my questions have been answered. well almost - but im satisfied.

an engine building background beckons me to check everything. period.

 

This is why I asked what an air gap on a clutch was. I've never checked any I've done-don't think I've ever even seen a spec on it.

 

You can buy shims to put behind the flywheel to compensate if you had to have the surface machined, I believe.

 

The shims are installed behind the slave cylinder housing.

 

If you want to know how to really do the install, follow the link.



http://www.ramclutches.com/Tech/inst...orque_tube.htm

 

kp1 - thats not the same gap im referring to, but helpful none the less. thanks.

 

I apologize for reviving an old thread, but I have searched and searched and I have yet to find what the measurements are for the clutch air gap. Everyone says that the clutch gap is crucial, but I haven't seen what these measurements should be. I've never done a clutch on any car, so it would be especially nice to know what this is so I know I did everything right. Where does one obtain the clutch gap measurement? Factory Service manuals? Or do I measure the old clutch and base the new clutch off the old? What if the old isn't right?

Help me out ya'll! Thanks.

 

Here is the best way to make sure its correct:

- TICK SHIM MEASUREMENT from the parts web site: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/

Checking Your work:


http://tick-performance.com/images/tickshiftfaq.html