Any tricks to remove anodize?
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Any tricks to remove anodize?
An oil catch can bracket is giving me trouble.
If I had a sandblast cabinet life would be great right now...
Sanding doesn't work; is there anything out there to break through anodize?
If I had a sandblast cabinet life would be great right now...
Sanding doesn't work; is there anything out there to break through anodize?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Santa Maria Ca.
I don't think there is -anodizing actually changes the surface of the existing metal-it's not a coating,so removing the the top thousandth or so of the metal is about the only way to get rid of it.
You are correct about sandblasting-that'll do it,but I don't think anything else will.
I'm not an expert by any means,though-I worked at a fabrication shop for 7 years,and everything we produced was made out of anodized aluminum,but no one ever asked us to remove the anodizing.
You are correct about sandblasting-that'll do it,but I don't think anything else will.
I'm not an expert by any means,though-I worked at a fabrication shop for 7 years,and everything we produced was made out of anodized aluminum,but no one ever asked us to remove the anodizing.
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
It's hard enough work without little junk like this grabbing the brakes.
I guess I'll call the manufacturer and see if they have any machined only.
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From: San Diego CA
Anodizing typically extends .001" into the aluminum and can be a real pain to remove. I did find this guy's solution:
but have not tried it, myself. In any case, always wear protective gloves when working with chemicals, especially solvents and acids of any kind.
So I have used a cleaner called Super Clean [link is to product info at Amazon] that was at first produced by Castrol and the sold to a independent co. I poured enough into a stainless bowl to cover the fitting straight from the bottle and within a 30 seconds the part started bubbling like the aftermath of a alka seltzer, Within 15 minutes and light scrubbing with a nylon brush 99.9% of the anodizing was removed
This stuff is strong it needs to be kept in the original plastic bottle or a glass bottle because it will eat some plastics and leak. Use Caution Gloves And Glasses ,Wash with Water
This stuff is strong it needs to be kept in the original plastic bottle or a glass bottle because it will eat some plastics and leak. Use Caution Gloves And Glasses ,Wash with Water
Melting Slicks
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From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
Muratic Acid will do it, but follow the above handling warnings. It's a common acid sold for swimming pools. I'd actually dilute it or try it on something you don't need first. It will eat aluminum quickly. Very quickly. Very very quickly.
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Michael S. Palmer
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From: Not on either liberal coast.
I built three tri five Chevy show cars with lots of braided steel hose and anodized aluminum red/blue fittings and ends. I removed all of the anodizing with EASY OFF oven cleaner, then polished them with WENOL.
If you chose to do it this way, soak the parts in oven cleaner for about ten minutes, then rinse away the chemical. It's very caustic and will burn so use caution. Use only in an area with lots of ventilation, also.
If you chose to sand blast (bead blast would be better), you end up with a rough raw finish which will attract grime. But maybe that's the finish you want.
If in ten minutes you find the chemical has removed the anodizing, rinse it thoroughly in running water. I used a toothbrush to get into the threads and cranies. There should be a blackened residue left on the part which will need to be wiped and polished off. If any portion of the anodizing remains, repeat. Don't leave it on for to long or the aluminum can be degraded.
I machine polished my parts then applied WENOL, but hand polishing is also possible.
If you chose to do it this way, soak the parts in oven cleaner for about ten minutes, then rinse away the chemical. It's very caustic and will burn so use caution. Use only in an area with lots of ventilation, also.
If you chose to sand blast (bead blast would be better), you end up with a rough raw finish which will attract grime. But maybe that's the finish you want.
If in ten minutes you find the chemical has removed the anodizing, rinse it thoroughly in running water. I used a toothbrush to get into the threads and cranies. There should be a blackened residue left on the part which will need to be wiped and polished off. If any portion of the anodizing remains, repeat. Don't leave it on for to long or the aluminum can be degraded.
I machine polished my parts then applied WENOL, but hand polishing is also possible.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Apr 19, 2010 at 11:49 AM.
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Thanks for all the help!!
Oven cleaner seems like the ticket; I'll fully polish the part afterwards.
I'll post pictures in this thread when I do it next weekend.
I'll post pictures in this thread when I do it next weekend.
