hey everyone, im going to be doing my first cam install and was wondering if i am missing anything on my parts list, alsoif u haveany pointers that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hot Cam
LS6 springs
retainers
valve seals
valve locks
valve spring tool

GM Water Pump Gaskets
GM Timing Cover Gasket
GM Timing Cover Seal
GM Valve Cover Gaskets
GM Harmonic Balancer Bolt
GM LS1 Oil Pump to Pick-Up O-Ring
GM LS1 Front Main Seal
new timing chain

red loctite
dexacool
motor oil

 

Based on your inventory I'm guessing you do not plan on removing the cylinder heads, you can do it but it's tricky. There are two important factors to take into consideration when replacing the cam without removing the heads; preventing the lifters from dropping into the block when you pull the cam out and preventing the valves from dropping into the cylinder when removing the old valve spring.

Have you planned for these contingencies? I do not see itmes in you inventory for this. There are a couple of ways to do both, I suggest you obtain a service manual and run a search on "cam replacement" so you can see what you are up against before tearing into it. I have no recommendation on any of these methods, my cylinder heads were off when I replaced my cam.

The "hot cam" although it's considered mild on this forum has lower manifold vacuum and a choppy idle due to it's considerable increased overlap over stock, you may require some tuning after the install, plan and budget for this.

PS: You may want to add at least one quart of power steering fluid to your list, you will loose it all when you remove the steering pump and rack.

 

yes i read about both of thoes problems and the solutions , thanks! so for the most part everything on my list seems right there is nothing else i will need besides the power steering fluid?? i dont want to be missing somthing and be screwed in the long run.

 

Depending on milage, I would consider installing a new oil pump, a new water pump & an underdrive pulley. Also, I wouldnt install a GM valve spring if it were me. Buy a set of good aftermarket springs.

 

How many miles on your car. It will guide people in making a good recommendation for you.

 

I am doing a cam only on my wife's car in a couple of weeks, and I'm going to go ahead and install a ported oil pump (cheap insurance) an underdrive pulley (which would require a new belt) and aftermarket springs.
I'm not installing a water pump, since they don't give a lot of trouble and I can swap that out fairly easily if it fails later.

You don't really need valve cover gaskets, since the rubber ones can be used repeatedly.

MAKE SURE that is the cam you want to go with. It is a LOT of labor (and parts) if you decide later it's too small.

 

i have 40,000mi exactly

 

I think you would be better off putting a real (larger) cam in the car. A cam swap is too much work for minimal HP. Just my opinion, but I've never heard anyone say they wish their cam was smaller. Whenever anyone asks me for a cam size, I say, pick the one you like and go a little bigger.

Add RTV sealer to your inventory, you need it on the edges of the cam cover. I use black, red or blue work fine too.

Also, if its your first swap, might want to add band aids for your knuckles. And a must for all motor work...beer.

 

IMPO:

Def go with ported oil pump- think of it as added protection. They aren't that much and you'll enjoy the added oil pressure @ WOT. Also, what chain have you opted to go with? Go with something other than a stock replacement. LS2, Comp, etc. Again, for the money its INSURANCE. The last thing you want is something to break and *poof* your motor is gone.

As far as the camshaft goes, I agree that you may want to rethink your selection a bit. I have actually heard some say they wish they had gone smaller, but in your case I think something a bit longer in the duration (both intake and exhaust) will really liven things up for you. Try something along the lines of a 224/228. Nice powerband and great manners around town. Keep in mind though that depending on the lift, you may have to upgrade to some Comp 918's or 921's for the higher lobe lift.

Have you ever looked into what is involved in swapping a cam in a vette? It is a bit more work because you have to move the rack and pinion, but you can do it. GO SLOW, and ask questions along the way.

Also, best way (IMO) to remove cam without fear of dropping a lifter is to purchase 16 pen magnets from your auto supply store. Feed the magnet down into the pushrod bore until you feel it contact the lifter. GENTLY shorten the pen magnet until it suspends the lifter in the tray. Once you have all of the magnets in place, rotate the cam by hand and watch all 16 pens. If they move, the lifter is still riding on the lobe of the cam. Repeat process until none of the pens move. Then, and only then should you attemp to remove the cam. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be careful removing the cam. It's like delivering a baby, just let is come out when it'e ready!

If you need ANY insight, tips, or just need to make sure you're all set, call the shop and ask for one of us. We'll help ya!

Josh@Lashway

 

and oh yeah...like CYA-vette says: BEER!!

 

http://www.ls1howto.com/

This will help, its what I used. Just look at the C5 heads cam install to figure out your needed info for removing the steering rack and then use the F body cam only part for the cam install.

 

thanks guys, And thanks for the beer tip, i already have that covered lol. n josh will i need a stall converter for the 224/228 because i have a automatic?

 

also what does the underdrive pully do and where would i get the new belt?

 

Before you install an underdrive pulley you may want to read this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ideas-why.html


I realize that this is your car and you can do as you please with it, but you had already selected a properly matched cam and spring kit, why are you allowing yourself to be talked out of that? Keep in mind that:

- Aftermarket parts are not always better, and on many occasions they are not properly engineered.
- The longer the cam duration and overlap are, the greater the propensity for drivability problems, especially with an automatic transmission.
- The higher the cam lift is the lower your valve train reliability will be. Additionally, high lift cams typically have smaller base circles meaning that you will loose some lifter preload. The only way to correct this on LS engines is by installing different lenght push rods.

The GM hot cam is a very good cam for a street driven LS engine, it makes an additional 50 hp when installed on the LS3 crate motor that GMPP sells. I'm not stating that it will that much power on an LS1, but it is not as wimpy as most would have you believe.

 

Good aftermarket springs.

but why the GM Hot Cam ?

219/228 525/525 112

go with something a bit more

224/228 581/588 114

Now the GM HOT cam will give you lots of low end torque

edit

Doh need to read the whole thread

Good choice of cams

good luck

 

An underdrive pulley slows down your accessories in order to reduce the parasitic loss and "free up" some hp. Before making a final decision on mine, I spoke (e-mailed and PM'd) several of the bigger name tuners here on the forum, and was told unanimously to go with a underdrive pulley if it was in my budget. I went with a powerbond on my H/C car and had no issues for the 4 years it was on the car.

Take your time and talk to as many people as possible, and maybe drive a couple of cammed cars before you make a final cam decision.

 

A two piece timing cover would not be a bad idea, so when you want go to a bigger cam later on, the swap will be much easier. I would hope by now they have the fitment issues fixed on the covers.

 

Hopefully. Also, not all work with an pulley that has an a/c underdrive.

 

no you do not need one but you sure would enjoy it

 

Having an automatic your going to need something to hold the crank when you go to remove and install the crank bolt.