Options? - Stripped Bellhousing threads...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 62
From: Middletown DE
Options? - Stripped Bellhousing threads...
So i was finally bolting up my tq tube to the bellhousing and having a hell of a time lining it up... Anyway, after a bit of time playing with it, i had it slipped on within 1/2 inch.
I started threading in the bolts and just my luck i ended up stripping one... luckily it is one of the lower ones.
So what are my options here... the four other bolts are torqued and holding fine. I never repaired a stripped bolt before - i assume i can use a helicoil or something but wasnt sure if others had any input on this....
I'd rather not replace the bell housing if i dont have to... and these bolts are only torqued to 37ft lb's, so not a whole lot of stress on these.
Thanks,
John
I started threading in the bolts and just my luck i ended up stripping one... luckily it is one of the lower ones.
So what are my options here... the four other bolts are torqued and holding fine. I never repaired a stripped bolt before - i assume i can use a helicoil or something but wasnt sure if others had any input on this....
I'd rather not replace the bell housing if i dont have to... and these bolts are only torqued to 37ft lb's, so not a whole lot of stress on these.
Thanks,
John
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Aside from a HELICOIL or similar steel threaded product, you could have the bell housing welded up, re-drilled and tapped.
A NUTSERT will not work as the casting is to thick. And someone will usually suggest JB WELD, which also will not work.
FYI, when the bell housing would not finally seat the last 1/2" on my sbc tri five Chevy cars of past, I had someone step on the clutch. That allowed for the gap to close w/o using a bolt to force it. I know of others who've broken their bell housings (aluminum and cast iron) by the doing the same thing. I'm assuming that procedure should also work on a C5 (?).
A NUTSERT will not work as the casting is to thick. And someone will usually suggest JB WELD, which also will not work.
FYI, when the bell housing would not finally seat the last 1/2" on my sbc tri five Chevy cars of past, I had someone step on the clutch. That allowed for the gap to close w/o using a bolt to force it. I know of others who've broken their bell housings (aluminum and cast iron) by the doing the same thing. I'm assuming that procedure should also work on a C5 (?).
Last edited by hotwheels57; May 4, 2010 at 07:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 62
From: Middletown DE
I was just talking to my BIL and had some ideas... Basically i dont want to pull the torque tube - but will if i need to.
Couldnt I just get the next size up Tap and bolt? There should be enough clearance on the bolt hole in the TQ Tube to support a larger bolt...
Or, could i get a longer bolt and put a nut behind it? There should be enough room behind the PP (lock nut)? Or is this asking for trouble.
Couldnt I just get the next size up Tap and bolt? There should be enough clearance on the bolt hole in the TQ Tube to support a larger bolt...
Or, could i get a longer bolt and put a nut behind it? There should be enough room behind the PP (lock nut)? Or is this asking for trouble.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 602
Likes: 249
From: Carson Valley
Is the bolt as long as the tapped threads, or shorter? I've had luck using longer bolts, in other applications. Lots of times shorter bolts are installed, there may be good threads lower in the hole.
Otherwise I'd drill it and tap it to a larger size, if there is enough material.
Otherwise I'd drill it and tap it to a larger size, if there is enough material.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 761
Likes: 1
From: sunnyvale ca
Is the bolt as long as the tapped threads, or shorter? I've had luck using longer bolts, in other applications. Lots of times shorter bolts are installed, there may be good threads lower in the hole.
Otherwise I'd drill it and tap it to a larger size, if there is enough material.
Otherwise I'd drill it and tap it to a larger size, if there is enough material.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 62
From: Middletown DE
I think there is only 1/4-1/8th of an inch of unused threads - so dont think a longer bolt will really help.
will run out today and look for a larger tap and bolt - think that is a good option at this point... if that doesnt go well (not sure why it wouldnt), i will pull it apart and helicoil it.
Thanks for the input -
will run out today and look for a larger tap and bolt - think that is a good option at this point... if that doesnt go well (not sure why it wouldnt), i will pull it apart and helicoil it.
Thanks for the input -
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
I think there is only 1/4-1/8th of an inch of unused threads - so dont think a longer bolt will really help.
will run out today and look for a larger tap and bolt - think that is a good option at this point... if that doesnt go well (not sure why it wouldnt), i will pull it apart and helicoil it.
Thanks for the input -
will run out today and look for a larger tap and bolt - think that is a good option at this point... if that doesnt go well (not sure why it wouldnt), i will pull it apart and helicoil it.
Thanks for the input -
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 62
From: Middletown DE
the existing thread is m10 1.5, and i was going to tap it for a 7/16 -20. When test fitting the m10 bolt in the 7/16 test hole (at the store), it seemed this would be the logical size to move up to, to avoid removing excess materials. I would imagine the helicoil may require MORE to be removed then this option.
I may hit an auto store to look at the helicoil option as well - i'll decide at that point which way i will go.
I may hit an auto store to look at the helicoil option as well - i'll decide at that point which way i will go.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,416
Likes: 1,144
From: Dyer, IN
the existing thread is m10 1.5, and i was going to tap it for a 7/16 -20. When test fitting the m10 bolt in the 7/16 test hole (at the store), it seemed this would be the logical size to move up to, to avoid removing excess materials. I would imagine the helicoil may require MORE to be removed then this option.
I may hit an auto store to look at the helicoil option as well - i'll decide at that point which way i will go.
I may hit an auto store to look at the helicoil option as well - i'll decide at that point which way i will go.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 62
From: Middletown DE
So i ended up pulling the drivetrain back out and putting in a helicoil. I feel much better about using the stock fastner versus the 7/16 bolt.
I ended up getting the helicoil from Autozone - but they did not have the supporting drill bit (13/32), so ended up getting that from lowes (for anyone needing a 10mm 1.5 helicoil)
Thanks for everyone's input.
John
I ended up getting the helicoil from Autozone - but they did not have the supporting drill bit (13/32), so ended up getting that from lowes (for anyone needing a 10mm 1.5 helicoil)
Thanks for everyone's input.
John
