CV Boot Repair
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 630
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CV Boot Repair
After discovering green grease on my rear wheel it looks like I need to put a new CV boot on. Does anyone have a link for directions on how to do this? I've tried the search but can't find anything. TIA! 
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 499
From: Hilton NY
A vendor had these on this site not too long ago, try the search again or check the vendor list; they were expensive. I bought a set last year from a national chain but they don't sell them anymore which is ok since they didn't fit well and the supplied clamps didn't fit.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 16
From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
From any dealer or from a forum supplier you are looking for part #88952506 for the outer and #88952507 for the inner. The service manual covers replacement.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: chandler az
I've done it before on my vette and another car. It's a pain for something so simple. The whole CV has to come out and pulled apart.
My buddy found a place in town here that rebuilt it and rebooted for $20.
My buddy found a place in town here that rebuilt it and rebooted for $20.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 178
Likes: 9
From: Tempe Arizona
Just my 2 cents, but I have learned not to do anything until I find out how much it would cost me to have it done. Does anyone know the shop costs on this work?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 722
From: Chicago N/W Suburbs
You might be pleasently surprised how affordable a rebuilt CV axle costs from Autozone or a Napa type of store. I have never replaced one on a Corvette , but on most cars they cost under $100. I 've done many other cars where I volunteer. It isn't bad with the right tools.....tie rod spreader and the right socket. Exception is when a CV axle has a big bearing half way across an extra long spance, and it's rusted in it's retainer. Honda right side CV axle rings a bell.
As others have mentioned, you can get yours rebuilt cheap. One thing I've tried a couple times with poor results are those add-on split boots with those screws. They don't last, "Period".
If my Corvette had a messed up CV boot, I would surely do the job myself. The special tools can often be borrowed at no charge from the store you purchased the part from.
As others have mentioned, you can get yours rebuilt cheap. One thing I've tried a couple times with poor results are those add-on split boots with those screws. They don't last, "Period".
If my Corvette had a messed up CV boot, I would surely do the job myself. The special tools can often be borrowed at no charge from the store you purchased the part from.
Last edited by Ron Dittmer; May 11, 2010 at 03:37 PM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: chandler az
Try and find an OEM boot if you do it yourself. The rubber was much thicker than the aftermarket replacement boot.
I don't remember needing any special tools. I had to seperate the ball joint, but the nut hits something above it and can be used to pop the joint loose. There were a few other small things along the way, but once you have clearance the joint just pops out. I think I just used a couple of big screwdrivers.
Taking the CV joint was a little bit of a pain. Somebody had pictures of the retaining ring (I think it was a ring and not a clip). You clip the boot snaps off boot and the manual shows hitting the end off with a 2x4 and a mallet. That didn't work for me so I rigged something with my 20 ton press (sorry I guess that qualifies as a special tool). If I didn't mess the the 2x4 it would have taking about an hour or two to do the job.
I don't remember needing any special tools. I had to seperate the ball joint, but the nut hits something above it and can be used to pop the joint loose. There were a few other small things along the way, but once you have clearance the joint just pops out. I think I just used a couple of big screwdrivers.
Taking the CV joint was a little bit of a pain. Somebody had pictures of the retaining ring (I think it was a ring and not a clip). You clip the boot snaps off boot and the manual shows hitting the end off with a 2x4 and a mallet. That didn't work for me so I rigged something with my 20 ton press (sorry I guess that qualifies as a special tool). If I didn't mess the the 2x4 it would have taking about an hour or two to do the job.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,233
Likes: 21
From: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
I would not use the split style boot. Get the GM repair kit as noted above. It's doable with some creativity and elbow grease, I got 2 boards and a hammer to seperate the CV joint. Also, DO NOT stretch the new CV boot while putting it in or you risk tearing the boot (don't ask me how I know 
) So far so good, and it's been 4 years, 50k miles.
) So far so good, and it's been 4 years, 50k miles.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 630
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Thanks for all the responses. heres a break down of different cost. Have dealer install a new axle assembly 600.00, I can purchase GM boot kit 58.00, new axle assembly 302.00, rebuilt axle assembly from NAPA 62.00.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Durham NC
One more thought
As a retired engineer who worked for a CV manufacturer for 28 years I thought I would offer the following. Removing the outboard joint from the shaft is fairly easy without special tools. You should not remove it by whacking the outer joint either directly or using boards as this can easily lead to cracking the cage inside the joint. The easy and safe way is to put the shaft in a vice. Pop the large clamp off so you have access the the cv joint. Use a hefty hammer and a heavy drift pin (I use an old motorcycle axle) against the inner race (this is the splined metal piece you actually see engaging the shaft). The circlip which holds the joint on requires great force to pull off, but comes off fairly easily with a shock load. Usually 2 or 3 raps in the manner described knocks it right off.
By the way, I concur with those who advised against aftermarket boots of any kind. The boot is by far the weakest link in the drive shaft. While the OE boots require driveshaft removal and are a little more expensive, they are well worth it because the aftermarket stuff on this particular product are junk.
Hope this helps.
By the way, I concur with those who advised against aftermarket boots of any kind. The boot is by far the weakest link in the drive shaft. While the OE boots require driveshaft removal and are a little more expensive, they are well worth it because the aftermarket stuff on this particular product are junk.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
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After reading all the replies I've decided to go with a new axle assembly from GM. The main reason I'm going this way is the quality of the boots and also the fact that the axle may or may not have been turned during the refinishing process on a rebuilt axle. One final question, does the rear spring have to be completely removed or just just disconnected on the side I'm working on?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
After reading all the replies I've decided to go with a new axle assembly from GM. The main reason I'm going this way is the quality of the boots and also the fact that the axle may or may not have been turned during the refinishing process on a rebuilt axle. One final question, does the rear spring have to be completely removed or just just disconnected on the side I'm working on?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 16
From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
As a retired engineer who worked for a CV manufacturer for 28 years I thought I would offer the following. Removing the outboard joint from the shaft is fairly easy without special tools. You should not remove it by whacking the outer joint either directly or using boards as this can easily lead to cracking the cage inside the joint. The easy and safe way is to put the shaft in a vice. Pop the large clamp off so you have access the the cv joint. Use a hefty hammer and a heavy drift pin (I use an old motorcycle axle) against the inner race (this is the splined metal piece you actually see engaging the shaft). The circlip which holds the joint on requires great force to pull off, but comes off fairly easily with a shock load. Usually 2 or 3 raps in the manner described knocks it right off.
By the way, I concur with those who advised against aftermarket boots of any kind. The boot is by far the weakest link in the drive shaft. While the OE boots require driveshaft removal and are a little more expensive, they are well worth it because the aftermarket stuff on this particular product are junk.
Hope this helps.
By the way, I concur with those who advised against aftermarket boots of any kind. The boot is by far the weakest link in the drive shaft. While the OE boots require driveshaft removal and are a little more expensive, they are well worth it because the aftermarket stuff on this particular product are junk.
Hope this helps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 6
From: Oilerville Edmonton
St. Jude Donor '08
I just did this. I have a link to a CF write up and all of the directions from the GM manual. shoot me a PM if you'd like the info I have. it was a relatively straighforward job. I'd never done it and am proud to say I did!!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 630
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Just a quick update. I used 00 Rooster's instructions on how to do this, unbolt the upper control arm and the shock from the frame and the axle will come right out. I had the axle out in 30-40 minutes of starting the job. A problem came up when a spring clip that should have been included in the box was never there or it fell out somewhere. Anyway I'll have to order a new clip and should be able finish up this week sometime. Special thanks to 00 Rooster and to all who have responded to this thread!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 6
From: Oilerville Edmonton
St. Jude Donor '08
Just a quick update. I used 00 Rooster's instructions on how to do this, unbolt the upper control arm and the shock from the frame and the axle will come right out. I had the axle out in 30-40 minutes of starting the job. A problem came up when a spring clip that should have been included in the box was never there or it fell out somewhere. Anyway I'll have to order a new clip and should be able finish up this week sometime. Special thanks to 00 Rooster and to all who have responded to this thread!
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