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Clutch Bleeding Problem

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Old May 19, 2010 | 10:14 AM
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Default Clutch Bleeding Problem

I just installed a Centerforce Dual Frictiion Clutch, Pressure Plate, stock pilot bearing, LS 6 throwout and slave cylinder , Tick Remote Bleeder and a stock LS 6 master cylinder.

It started out after the install, the clutch engagement was about mid ways out. After 6 or 7 hundred miles, the clutch engagement is on the floor and I can't shift out of first gear when it at high rpm.

I think the master cyclinder is faulty as I cannot get any air out of the bleeder. I have ordered another new master cyclinder.

I still wonder if it's not air in the system but I can't get any air out of the bleeder when I try to bleed the master cyclinder.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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The MC could be air-locked. Did you bench bleed it?
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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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What exactly is your bleeding procedure? A mini-vac at the master reservoir works well to pull air out of the master.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
The MC could be air-locked. Did you bench bleed it?
, install the new master and see what happens. If this does not fix your problem, you might need to install a Tick Adjustable Master...
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Old May 19, 2010 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Spoon83
, install the new master and see what happens. If this does not fix your problem, you might need to install a Tick Adjustable Master...
Install a new master because of air???
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Old May 19, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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I recommend pulling the master and doing the adjustable master for free mod! Also finding a restrictorless clutch line is a must. I am currently looking myself as in the Fbody world I could just drill the restrictors out.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Venomous
I recommend pulling the master and doing the adjustable master for free mod! Also finding a restrictorless clutch line is a must. I am currently looking myself as in the Fbody world I could just drill the restrictors out.
More great advice on how to break drivetrain parts quicker by removing the restrictor.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
More great advice on how to break drivetrain parts quicker by removing the restrictor.
Relax, we suggested that if the bleed does not work then do the adjustable master. One of his symptoms was that he can not shift at high rpm's which is common with aftermarket clutch kits...

http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...aulics/#master

AWSOME 04, this article also might help you out:

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...021/index.html

Last edited by Spoon83; May 19, 2010 at 02:11 PM.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
More great advice on how to break drivetrain parts quicker by removing the restrictor.
Sorry man, this mod is for us who DRIVE our cars how they should be driven. I can't remember a Muncie Rockcrusher or any mechanically linkaged clutch in any car for that matter that won't let you shift when you wanna shift. If you break something, that's part of the game. If you drive like Pa-Pa the whole time, this mod is not for you. In fact you should get 100K outta stock clutch, with Pa-Pa driving. Now if you race and push the R's above 6K and wanna shift, you'd better have an adjustable master and restrictorless line to move that fluid as fast as you clutch! Basically the clutch is not releasing fully and will not reengage till the R's are back down. I have done this countless times or I wouldn't recommend it. From Spec, to Monster, to Textralia, and Ram. They have all needed an adjustable master whether Tick's awesome design, or factory modified and a clutch line without restrictor orifices.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Venomous
Sorry man, this mod is for us who DRIVE our cars how they should be driven. I can't remember a Muncie Rockcrusher or any mechanically linkaged clutch in any car for that matter that won't let you shift when you wanna shift. If you break something, that's part of the game. If you drive like Pa-Pa the whole time, this mod is not for you. In fact you should get 100K outta stock clutch, with Pa-Pa driving. Now if you race and push the R's above 6K and wanna shift, you'd better have an adjustable master and restrictorless line to move that fluid as fast as you clutch! Basically the clutch is not releasing fully and will not reengage till the R's are back down. I have done this countless times or I wouldn't recommend it. From Spec, to Monster, to Textralia, and Ram. They have all needed an adjustable master whether Tick's awesome design, or factory modified and a clutch line without restrictor orifices.
Did you read the title of the original post? The reason for my comments, he has a bleeding issue and can’t pull out of 1st gear, not 2nd or 3rd gear. Restrictor even if it were an issue wouldn’t impinge on 1st gear. The other post is having him replace the master cylinder before even confirming that the system is properly bled.

Quite frankly, your comment that you have “done this countless times” doesn’t do anything to help the original poster. Suggesting replacement or modifying parts before confirming the issue is bad advice.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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Right but the OP says that he can not shift out of 1st gear at high RPMs.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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The stock master will probably not work with your set up. We installed a ram adjustable master with my new spec which is basically a gm master thats adjustable, it works on the f bodies 99% of the time, but, not usually on the vets. Bled the hell out of it, never could get it to shift at high rpm. Ask a lot of questions on this forum and wala, you got to have the tick or tilton master. We went with the tilton race set up which is what tick uses and man that cured it. Power shift it all you want, take it to the track and have fun. (mine didn't turn out to be fun, I broke the tranny and rear on the third pass). It still shifted great before the breakage. I messed around way to long with it before I pulled the trigger on the tilton. Its the cats meow now. Go for it and you'll be happy again.

Last edited by 99vetteran; May 19, 2010 at 07:28 PM.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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Default Thanks, everyone!

Originally Posted by 99vetteran
The stock master will probably not work with your set up. We installed a ram adjustable master with my new spec which is basically a gm master thats adjustable, it works on the f bodies 99% of the time, but, not usually on the vets. Bled the hell out of it, never could get it to shift at high rpm. Ask a lot of questions on this forum and wala, you got to have the tick or tilton master. We went with the tilton race set up which is what tick uses and man that cured it. Power shift it all you want, take it to the track and have fun. (mine didn't turn out to be fun, I broke the tranny and rear on the third pass). It still shifted great before the breakage. I messed around way to long with it before I pulled the trigger on the tilton. Its the cats meow now. Go for it and you'll be happy again.
I'm going to bled the clutch some more before I replace the master cylinder.

Thnaks for all your help.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Spoon83
Right but the OP says that he can not shift out of 1st gear at high RPMs.
Thank you cause I thought that's what I read. Yes you will have more chance of breaking something, but you won't be pissed that you can't hit gears in a race!! I also think IMHO that it's the racing and powershifting with bad parts or incorrectly bled sytem that does the damage! It just rears it's ugly head once fixed and you are now able to shift. Bam breakage!
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Old May 20, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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I have the same setup and reused the oem master and have ZERO issues.

I bleed my clutch every 5 k in about 5 minutes because I came from a stock clutch with the sticky pedal syndrome!


Mario

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Old May 21, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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what is the procedure for bleeding that clutch in a C6?
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