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I agree with you. Why can't the DIC read the same as other test points given maybe 2 to 4 tenths off for a crummy connection, etc. Thanks again.
Really difficult to understand, unless you know the accuracy of the IPC, with regards to reading voltage. For all we know, it's less accurate than a harbor freight mulimeter. If someone were really interested, they could pull the IPC fuse, and connect battery voltage directly to the load side of the fuse socket. That way, the battery is going directly to the IPC, and the voltage reading could be compared with that of a meter.
Last edited by lucky131969; Jun 11, 2010 at 02:24 PM.
My wife has allowed me some child free garage time for the weekend..So I just may try that and put even a line from the alternator to the load side of the IPC fuse just to see if there is any change on the dash. This is however inbetween graduation and a surprise party and unfortunately a funeral. Of course I havent driven the car in 3 weeks either, so im not too concerned about it.
BTW, to anybody that is following and would like to try to solve this..I have found this handy site that allows schematics for any car, until they shut it down... http://www.sailor.lib.md.us/cgi-bin/ebsco?DB=auto Reference code 1111111
Actually slow at work waiting for some return phone calls, and it appears the voltage input to the cluster comes from a14 which is an orange wire from the fuse for BCM1 & IPC, mini fuse 25 10amps. So ill check the feed from that, I have tried to bypass to my battery with a pair of jumper cables which were newer larger, and that had no effect on my voltage readings in the dash, however my battery was good, so something isnt right here, and i really hope i can get to the bottom of it, grrr!
I may also check one that I had heard above about how a guy had a bad battery, and his top terminals had full voltage and the side did not, that is certainly a possibility as well. I am going to take my battery in to be load tested this weekend as well.
Actually slow at work waiting for some return phone calls, and it appears the voltage input to the cluster comes from a14 which is an orange wire from the fuse for BCM1 & IPC, mini fuse 25 10amps. So ill check the feed from that, I have tried to bypass to my battery with a pair of jumper cables which were newer larger, and that had no effect on my voltage readings in the dash, however my battery was good, so something isnt right here, and i really hope i can get to the bottom of it, grrr!
if you read the "description and operation" in your service manual, you'll see the IPC obtains voltage data from "IGN 1".
I have the new service manual but it uses this VMWare, and it keeps locking up my computer...so unfortunately I cannot use that right now. I think one day I need to invest in an actual hardcopy service manual with paper...GO GREEN!
I have the new service manual but it uses this VMWare, and it keeps locking up my computer...so unfortunately I cannot use that right now. I think one day I need to invest in an actual hardcopy service manual with paper...GO GREEN!
May get some time to try to power up the load side of the fuse for the IPC tomorrow on my DAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY OFF! Hopefully day off does not include me watching my son, as bad as that sounds we pay for 5 days of daycare and I have a LOT to do. I had my battery load tested the other day. He said it came back as needing a charge, but it still had 660 cca. I find that hard to believe as it somewhat contradicts itself...needing a charge but still has 660cca? I am going to check the starter connections tomorrow, and also I found out that I need to do something with my positive battery cable, as it was also hacked at one time along with many other things on this car.