Just wanted to confirm this before I attempt it.

1) lift car
2) drain coolant into container
3) Remove radiator hose from thermostat
4) unbolt and remove old thermostat
5) install new thermostat with seal, replace coolant and test for leaks


is this correct?

 

Pretty much and here is the coolant change procedure since you are changing the thermostat.

Yes!!! Right out of the Service Manual.
---------------------------------------------------
Draining and Filling Cooling System

Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.



Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.


Park the vehicle on a level surface.
Remove the surge tank cap:
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Place a drain pan under the drain ****.
Open the radiator drain ****.
Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.

Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.



Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Close the radiator drain ****. Tighten
Tighten the radiator drain **** to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
Start the engine.
Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
Install surge tank cap.
Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
Shut off the engine.
Remove the surge tank cap.
Start the engine.
Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
Install the surge tank cap.
Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
Shut off the engine.
Remove the surge tank cap.
Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
Install the surge tank cap.

 

It takes five minutes to replace a thermostat.. no jacking the car, no draining the coolant.. just a simple procedure, which I use twice a year when replacing my summer stat and my winter stat. Ive done this successfully, as have many others, for the last ten years with my C5... But you can do it your way since you did the research...it will work.
Ive posted this very short procedure a dozen times over the last ten years here.

 

I"d love to do it the short way, but i'm not sure how to keep air from getting into the system. Any suggestions for that or should I just follow the book on this one?

 

Ive never jacked the car up or drained it.

 

Ran by the local auto parts store and grabbed a thermostat….and was stoked that it was like $16!!!

My dad came out to help with the install….mostly to hold the flashlight. Tried the procedure Evil-twin posted and it seemed to bee working until I asked my father to double check the tightness on the bolts. (don’t have a torque wrench and I use him to gauge tightness…lol) this is where things got interesting.

Well somehow he managed to tear off the bolt head on the top bolt. After a good minute of non-stop cursing as we removed the thermostat watching all the coolant we tried to save drain out, we realized there was just enough of the bolt threads exposed to grab with a vice grip and twist out.

A quick run to the hardware store and Auto Zone and I got a pair of M6 Stainless bolts , permatex and more coolant to make sure the project was finished without any problems. Thermostat installed, coolant re-filled and a test drive revealed the problem was solved.

I examined the old thermostat. I’m almost sure it’s a factory original. I believe the failure was due to a failed spring. Here’s some pics

 

What was the permatex used for?

 

insurance on the rubber seal.

 

Ok.......

 

The "rubber seal" is called an o-ring. A dab of silicone grease, to help hold it in place, is all you ever need on it.

Your old thermostat appears to be a factory original, as you expected it to be.

 

Evil, I looked at most of your old post and didn't find it.

 

Here, try this:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1547302169-post5.html

 

Thanks Jason...there are thousands and thousands of these choice tidbits of information. All you have to do is to know just how to search. Between open forum and personal messages, I have well over 13,000 help posts. About 80% of the 11,000 plus ,open forum post, are help post and 98% of the private messages are help messages. I'm happy that there are so many well versed members of this forum willing to help New members here.. when the C5 was first launched, there were very few who knew anything about this car, and most who tried to help, offered 1960's technology that they tried to apply to this car..Or they applied Urban legend, or what their grandfather taught them. Someone in this thread allowed their "dad" to tighten an aluminum bolt until he broke the head off.. this is an aluminum engine , the bolt requires 89 inch lbs.or 7.5 ft lbs... Not Gorilla torque. Which shows that you don't want to ask a non-professional for help from anyone over 50, meaning they grew up in the 60's when their grandfathers Buick weighed 2.5 tons and got 10 miles to the gallon..

 

I used Evil-Twin's method. It works great. no need to drain out all the coolant IMO.

 

Me too!

 

You guys win. I will try the ****** and grab method later today. I really don't want to "jack and drain"

 

And burp the system...(get all the air out).

 

How do you Burp the system?

 

It's in the service manual under Engine cooling....."Draining and Filling Cooling System".

 

Ok, I have that.