I'm installing my headers tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone disagrees with me using OEM GM gaskets? I was also wondering if I should use any type of RTV or should I just install the gaskets dry??

Thanks.

 

Use the GM LS 1 steel gaskets. Put them on dry. Use anti seize on the header bolts and air tube bolts, also on the threads of the spark plugs.

 

The GM LS1 steel gaskets are the ones that come stock on the exhaust manifolds right?

Another question, when I removed the ignition wires the metal boot around the spark plug end popped out with the wire... Is this ok? They seemed to go right back on.

 

My engine is the LS 6 (Z06). The headers I installed are LG long tube Pro's. They recommended using the stock GM steel LS 1 gaskets. The part # @ that time was GM#12558573. I used new plug wires along with heat sox on each wire slid down over the wires and close to the headers. AS far as the stock wires and metal wire/plug, I would imagine you should be ok. I didn't want to chance anything, is the reason I went w/the sox's & new wires. I've had my headers on since 2004, without any problems.

 

No, you can't use them. You need the F-body gasket. You will see when they come off that the ports are oval whereas the gaskets used for the headers have round ports. Part number you need is 12617944.

 

I agree with Vettenuts. Use his part number.
And Picture is worth a thousand words. You want the round port GM gasket that is shown in it's package. The stock LS1 gasket has oval ports.

 

Yea.. I definitely bought the gaskets on top! Fml! Thanks alot for the help guys!

 

Ok, so I got the right gaskets and the driver side went right in. The passenger side, not so much. I removed the valve cover and the starter, but it seems like the header is hitting the frame Any words of advice?

 

Whooops.

 

No the starter is on the passenger side.

 

Are you sure about that?

 

Anyone have any advice for getting the passenger side in??

 

With my new ARH with 1 and 7/8" primaries I installed the passenger header from the top.
First, when I picked them up from JetHot they were in clear plastic bags. I left the bags on them so I didn't scratch them when doing the install.
Going in from the bottom with the starter loosened (no bolts, wires still hooked up) wasn't going to happen to easy. Even with the starter out completely I couldn't see how I'd get the starter bolts and wires back in with the pipes and collector in the way. I bolted the starter back in.

From the top with the coilpaks, valve cover, spark plugs and battery box shield removed I had made more progress but the pipes still would not slide in. Note that I had also removed my entire Secondary Air Injection system from the car the previous week since I ordered the headers without the "Air" hookups. So that plumbing wasn't in my way either. Also I had to gently bend the aluminm air cond. lines over into the area where the batt. box was. The headers still did not want to slide down in all the way....but I was getting closer.

Finally I loosened up the motor mount nuts and using a large block of wood that covered the width of the oil pan I jacked up the motor till the intake was just touching the firewall overhang.
And that gave me just enough room for the header to be prodded down in there.

All brands of headers are built different so you just have to take your time, observe and think things through. Good luck!

What brand of header did you purchase?

 

Reading Comp>Me

For some reason I had altenator in my head I'm a idiot.

Well bcseitz pretty much posted what I was going to say

 

arh fml

 

Loosen both motor mounts, lift the pass side up and it will give you the room you need. Are those 1 7/8" tubes? I used this proceedure w/my 1-3/4" LG' Pro's.

 

They are 1 7/8 tubes. And what exactly is your definition of loosen?

 

Really don't know where your at on your install. ( What you have removed) If those are 1 7/8" Kook headers, I'm thinking you have your starter removed/ or at least loose? Loosen the dr side mtr mount nuts w/ just a couple threads left. Take the nut off on the pass side. If you go to the top right of this "Tec" page , where it says "Search this forum", (click on there.and then type in Kook's header install, you will get plenty of info from previous 1 7/8" installers. Hope this helps.

 

When I did my ARH 1 7/8" headers I had a ton of trouble with my passenger side header. It was hitting the AC hardline. I loosened the motor mounts and pushed up on the driver's side of the motor to create a little more room. Then watched the vette doctors install video like 50 times. Once you get the angle of install just right it slides right into place from the bottom. Once it slid in I felt kind of stupid having so much trouble with it. The hardest part I had was reconnecting the starter and wiring after the header was installed.

Here's a link to the video I think I watched (can't see it at work).

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tml?forum_id=1

Hope it helps.

Charlie

 

that video sure made it look easy..he didn't have motor jacked up either.Hey sick, keep us posted on how this turns out.