Ok everyone so let me know if you have ever experienced this.

It does not happen often but sometimes when I am playing with the locking system on my vette and I get in the start the car I get a whole bunch of things to pop up on my display screen that are not correct like stating my systems are all messed up ect with security light, gauge light, and abs, and traction lights on.

For instance it was weird but this morning I got in the car after hitting the key fob more times then i should have lol (was in my pocket and it kept hitting.) and when I was driving all of a sudden the car started flipping out on gauges saying my trunk was open (which I closed) my engine power was low, my gauge light came on, my gas guage when all the way down oil up ect, tire sensor system, maintence system everything. then I turned car off and locked car set the security system and came back and no problems.

Has this happened to anyone ever? what should I do about it.

Also how do I permanently clear the messages that come up like oil life when I change it?

Thx everyone.

 

Check your battery cables for tightness and make sure the connections are free of corrosion. Then pull your codes.

To enter the Diagnostic Display function perform the following steps in order:
1. Turn ON the ignition switch, engine OFF.
2. Press the RESET button to acknowledge any warning messages present.
3. Press the OPTIONS button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and hold.
4. While holding the OPTIONS button press the FUEL button 4 times within a 10 second period.
5. System will first enter automatic display mode followed by the manual display mode.
The automatic display feature allow you to read each module DTC display function in an automatic display sequence. Each system module DTC will be displayed for 3 seconds followed by a 1 second pause before the next DTC is displayed in an automatic sequence. If no DTC information is sent to the IPC from the system currently displayed on the IPC, the IPC will display NO CODES for that system. At any time during the automatic display function, the manual display feature can be activated by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 button. The E/M 5 button is used to completely exit the DIAGNOSTICS mode at any time. If there is a communications problem between any system, the IPC will display NO COMM when the IPC is trying to communicate with that system. When all DTCs have been displayed for all systems, the IPC will display NO MORE CODES for 2 seconds then will enter the manual display mode, waiting for manual mode operation.

The manual display feature allows you to manually select each module DTC display function. The manual mode will automatically be entered after the automatic DTC display sequence is complete, or can be entered at any time during the automatic mode by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 (E/M 5 button is used to exit the DIAGNOSTIC mode at any time). When the manual mode is selected, the IPC will display the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message for 2 seconds, or until any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 is pressed. After the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message is displayed, the IPC will display the first system abbreviation and quantity of codes stored for that system, then the IPC will wait for further instructions. The buttons on the DIC provide the following functions when operating the on-board diagnostic feature in the manual mode:

DIC Button Function
FUEL 1 Previous DTC
GAGES 2 Next DTC
TRIP 3 Previous System
OPTIONS 4 Next System
E/M 5 Exit Diagnostics
RESET Clear DTCs

 

As suggested, check your battery cables and pull codes.

Sounds like a possible class 2 serial bus issue. Typically, you'll get a reduced engine power message, fuel gauge to zero, oil pressure to zero, and coolant temp to max(pegged).

Inspect the wiring in the left door acordian tube. See below..start with post #610

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...n-long-31.html

 

EXACTLY!

 

I am doing this now should I do both door tubes? I had nasty white flaking stuff all over the tubes it was weird.

 

Hey bill what is the next step I need to take if this does not solve my problem? like you mentioned the exact things are happening and the windows do not work from this.

 

Remove the tube in BOTH doors and pull up the connectors and disconnect them. Examine the male and female pins and look very carefully at the FEMALE pins. See if any of the little contact tongues are damaged resulting in a poor connection. You can bend them back in place.

DO NOT use dielectric grease. You can use a spray specifically designed to stop fret corrosion. Make sure that there are not any bare wires. If so coat with liquid electrical tape.

That should do ya.

Bill

 

Hey Bill I had two more questions. I went to ace and got the liquid electrical tape and I am applying it right now but why can you not use dielectric grease? What product should I use because no place near me is carrying this fret corrosion stuff.

 

Ok Bill I got everything back together and drove car to get gas and it did not come back on again so I hope to god it is all fixed now.

 

Dielectric grease is actually an electrical insulator. So, it can actually make the connections WORSE. Normaly the mechanical contact will break the grease barrier BUT, sometimes, it wont.

There are specific products that inhibit ellctrical contact corrosion and fret corrosion that are specifically designed not to interfear with the electrical contact. It just keep the oxygen away from the contacts.

The one that I have used with great success is Corrosion X.

http://corrosionxproducts.com/electronics.html

 

So Bill like someone else said If it happens again with the bus problem what do I do next? Also by me applying liquid electrical tape on those wires and insulating them why would it have such a huge effect on fixing that problem? Just trying to learn why a small thing like that would make it go crazy thx.