Was in Bowling Geen yesterday and tried to start my 98 and when I turned the key the fuel pump ran and all the gauges did wht they normally do but the starter did nothing. The Battery was at 12.5. I tried to jump i but still nothing. What I ended up doing was turn the key to on and ran a wire to the starter and touched the other end to the battery. It started right up. For the rest of the day it started fine. It is an auto so I will check the safety switch. What else is there?

 

Starter solenoid was probably stuck. Old school was to tap on it to loosen. You may or may not have to replace soon................

 

Theres a series of electrical interlocks in the starting circuit that can contribute to this issue. With out physically troubleshooting with a meter when this happens,,,your mainly guessing at whats wrong.

As Jewjenk has stated, the solenoid is a high failure rate issue and a MAIN contribuator to this issue. It failed like the problem that your having on my 02 ZO6.

The next time that it happens, tap on the starter with something like wrench or mallet and see if that corrects the issue. If it does, you need a new solenoid.

When I removed my starter, I disassembled the starter to see if it was worn. The main part of the starter looked like NEW inside!
It's fairly bullet proof! You can purchase a new solenoid for around $40-$50. but, like I said, it requires starter removal to change the solenoid.

BC

 

Using this diagram you can diagnose the problem next time it happens (if you have a test light and a few minutes). You can rule out passkey problem since jumping the starter worked. Keep us posted!

 

This is almost to weird. My wife took the car (97 with 161k), and park it for about 4 hours. When she came out, she turned the key and nothing. All the gages lit up but that was all. Make a long story short, I went there thinking it was in need of a jump. Before this was getting low voltage on the DIC, 11.8 and sometimes 11.6. So I figured something was draining it. But prior to this I had the battery checked and it was OK. Well AAA came and like you it wasn't in need of a jump. The solenoid on the starter didn't even make a click. I even tried to tap on the solenoid like Jewjenk and Bill said but that didn't help. (Always did on my 70's Maverick)Called Corvette Masters in Central Florida and they said maybe a security issue. Well nothing worked. Ended flat bedding it to the shop. Next three days, they started the car on and off throughout the days and every time it fired right up. They thought the battery cable might be corroded but that check out fine. So right now I have the car back and don't know what to check for. How could they fix a problem that isn't there. I will try to hunt down by using the

sk7, thanks for the diagram, will keep that also if it happens. Hopefully someplace that is a good place to troubleshoot. Lakesvette, thanks for the info on by passing the wiring and running a wire from the battery to the starter. If it happens again that is my first line of defense. Hope someone comes up with the solution. This never happened in 6 years, so it might be the start of something creeping up on me. Thanks

 

That is not the correct schematic for a 98....below is correct.

 

My bad on the diagram, its off 2004 model. Assumed all C5s were similar...

 

mine does this every once and a while just doesn't start i keep trying and it eventually just starts right up it weird

 

solinoid issue!

 

Solenoid issue

 

I think it is the ignition switch and VATS doing the dance. I've had my ign switch out twice and all things torn apart only to have it only be fixed for a month or so before returning again. Every once in a while the Security light will be on in the IPC. It isn't on immediately or with any distinct pattern either.

 

Here's some more info on how to diagnose those starting problems, at least test the TDR for anything fishy...



(1) Theft Deterrent Relay
(2) Fuse Block-IP
(3) Blower Motor Relay
(4) Star Connector #2
(5) Body Control Module (BCM) C3
(6) Body Control Module (BCM) C1
(7) Star Connector #1
(8) Body Control Module (BCM) C2
(9) Steering Column Lock Relay

Theft Deterrent Relay:



Connector Part Information
12110541
6-Way F Metri-Pack 280 Series (BLK)

Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
A1 YEL/BLK 625 Starter Enable Relay Control
A2 PPL 6 Starter Solenoid Crank Voltage
B1-B2 -- -- Not Used
C1 RED 542 Battery Positive Voltage
C2 YEL 269 Starter Enable Relay Coil Supply Voltage

Using a test light, with key in start position, check for 12V at the A2 wire. Color can be different according to model year. If there is 12V coming out of the relay then either the starter/solenoid assembly is to blame or the wire going to the starter needs to be checked. But the ignition switch and passkey are ok. If not check for 12V while in crank position at C2. If not neutral switch or clutch switch needs to be checked. C1 should be constant 12V no matter what. A1 is ground from the BCM if the passkey system recognizes the resistor in the key as valid. TDR should click when key is switched to start. If you suspect the neutral-clutch switch to be the problem, use small jumper cable 10-12GA (I always carry those around in the glovebox, from my VW years experience...) to temporary jump from C1 to A2. This will activate the starter. Would be wise to fabricate some of those jumpers and practice this while at home enjoying a cold one! Might save you a towing or not be late for a hot date! Keep us posted.

 

Good info above, with only one exception....use a meter and not a test light. A test light tells you nothing about the voltage, voltage drop, resistance, etc.

 

Having the same problem on my '01 6 speed. Thought it was a relay problem somewhere. Have not found it yet. Usually I take the key out, lock the car, have a smoke, unlock, and then it fires right up. Works every time. With that in mind it seems like it is the ignition or security feature. Am going to fix it next weekend come hell or highwater. Will post the outcome. I am going to start with the ignition switch. Will work backwrds from the ignition switch. It seems most likely it starts there.

 

You should first pull your codes. Take note if the security light goes out when trying to start.

You won't get very far working backwards from the ignition switch, as that just leaves the IGN2 fuse. You can isolate this quickly just by using the schematic, and evaluating the first point downstream of the ignition switch, which is mini fuse #14, if voltage is found good, then move to the next component.

 

No codes at all.

 

Good. Use a meter, and the provided schematic

 

Just want to thank everyone for the input that they have given us. I know it was Lakesvette post, but I am tagging along for the ride seeing I had the identical problem in my 97. As soon as it cools off a little here in Florida, early morning or late late evening, I will follow the instructions posted. Thanks so much for some guidance in trying to solve this.

 

Sounds a lot like the issue I had, ended up being the Theft Deterrent Relay. I went and troubleshot everything I could think of and or find on the forum before getting to the TDR.. should have done that first. If thats your issue any one of the auto parts stores out there has the relay for less then $20.

 

Heres the START schematic.



YEP,,,the TDR can be bad and its a 12 buck item. Easy enough to swap it out. My expierence is,,,,the Solenoid is at fault. You can get one from any starter repair shop.

BC