Can't shift to reverse. Please Help...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Berkeley CA
Can't shift to reverse. Please Help...
Hi Guys,
I've been having this problem for a week. I can't shift to reverse in the morning ( while the car is cold). I need to wait for like 15 min, until the car is fully warm to be able to shift to the gear. I've changed the differential oil, but it doesn't quite help. The problem now seems getting worse, since other gears are starting to get the same symptom.
Anyone can give me some advice of what I should do? Thanks so much in advance!
Patrick
I've been having this problem for a week. I can't shift to reverse in the morning ( while the car is cold). I need to wait for like 15 min, until the car is fully warm to be able to shift to the gear. I've changed the differential oil, but it doesn't quite help. The problem now seems getting worse, since other gears are starting to get the same symptom.
Anyone can give me some advice of what I should do? Thanks so much in advance!
Patrick
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: The Chi
Will the shifter just not go all the way to the right?
Thats weird, but I would go into the DIC and see if your reverse lockout solenoid is acting up.
It won't throw a light on the dash but it will throw a code.
Thats weird, but I would go into the DIC and see if your reverse lockout solenoid is acting up.
It won't throw a light on the dash but it will throw a code.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Berkeley CA
the shifter will go all the way to the right, but just not to the reverse.
and it works for the rest of the day, at least while the car is warm. I will check out the reverse lockout tomorrow.Thanks
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: The Chi
Definitely sounds like it's the lockout solenoid then. I can't see it being anything else if the trans actually shifts the rails.
Also, diff fluid is diff fluid. It has nothing to do with your trans.
Your trans has its own fluid and its sealed away from the diff. To check the level its the golden bolt / electrical connector on the driver side. Take it out and make sure that there is enough fluid level with the bottom of the hole.
Our tran's take dexron III ATF not MTF. I used amsoil.
Also, diff fluid is diff fluid. It has nothing to do with your trans.
Your trans has its own fluid and its sealed away from the diff. To check the level its the golden bolt / electrical connector on the driver side. Take it out and make sure that there is enough fluid level with the bottom of the hole.
Our tran's take dexron III ATF not MTF. I used amsoil.
Last edited by -DLS-; Jun 18, 2010 at 03:47 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 1
From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
did you try to realign the shifter? I had trouble popping out of rev when cold. I had to hold the shifter in rev while backing out of my driveway. Then I realigned the shifter & chg'ed my tranny fluid and no more popping out or grin going into rev. G/L
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 8
From: Indian Rocks Beach FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
It depends on the year of your car as to whether or not it could be the lockout solenoid. On '97-'00 the solenoid is engaged with power off. If the solenoid goes bad it will prevent you from engaging reverse. On '01-'04 cars the solenoid is engaged with power on. If it goes bad it will not lock out reverse, even with the car moving forward.
You problem sounds more like a synchro issue than a solenoid.
You problem sounds more like a synchro issue than a solenoid.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: The Chi
It depends on the year of your car as to whether or not it could be the lockout solenoid. On '97-'00 the solenoid is engaged with power off. If the solenoid goes bad it will prevent you from engaging reverse. On '01-'04 cars the solenoid is engaged with power on. If it goes bad it will not lock out reverse, even with the car moving forward.
You problem sounds more like a synchro issue than a solenoid.
You problem sounds more like a synchro issue than a solenoid.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
It sounds like the shifter may have slipped on the torque tube. When it's in neutral with it centered (ie 3/4 gear slot) does the shifter still seem to be straight up and down? If it seems off or has more shifting slop then pull the console and check the alignment and general condition of the shifter.
Peter
Peter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 9
From: Ottawa Ontario
Mine just started doing the same thing....reverse is hard to find but when it goes in its good. Like you said after the car is wam it seems easier to get it in. Let me know what you find ! I have a fully built MN6
take care
Last edited by MotleyDrew; Aug 13, 2010 at 02:03 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 288
Likes: 2
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
mine does not want to go all the way into reverse. It feels like it only goes half way in.
if I let the clutch out slowly and keep pressure on the shifter, I hear/feel a light clunk and then its in. otherwise, if I try to drive with it half way in, it sits there and grinds until I pull it back out.
Could this be shifter alignment?? (sorry for the highjack)
Whats the procedure for checking your shifter alignment? anyone know off hand?
john
if I let the clutch out slowly and keep pressure on the shifter, I hear/feel a light clunk and then its in. otherwise, if I try to drive with it half way in, it sits there and grinds until I pull it back out.
Could this be shifter alignment?? (sorry for the highjack)
Whats the procedure for checking your shifter alignment? anyone know off hand?
john
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,245
Likes: 25
From: Blue Ridge Georgia
You have to remove the bolt that goes thru the shifter collar and tightens the transmission rod. The notch in the transmission rod needs to be in the center of the bolt hole. If it's not in the center you have to loosen the shifter bolts and move it forward or to the rear.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria Ca.
If the pilot bearing is dry,or grenaded,it will grab the propshaft and keep it spinning even when the clutch is fully disengaged( it's also chewing up the end of the propshaft while it's doing this) so first or reverse will be difficult if not impossible to get in to.
Just a thought-those were my symptoms when I destroyed a pilot bearing during a clutch install,and got to do the whole thing over again.
I went with a Kevlar/Composite pilot BUSHING on the second go-round,and it's all been good for the last 6k miles...
The pilot bearing is the last piece to come out once you drop the drivetrain and remove the clutch,so I really hope that's not what's causing your issue.
Just a thought-those were my symptoms when I destroyed a pilot bearing during a clutch install,and got to do the whole thing over again.
I went with a Kevlar/Composite pilot BUSHING on the second go-round,and it's all been good for the last 6k miles...
The pilot bearing is the last piece to come out once you drop the drivetrain and remove the clutch,so I really hope that's not what's causing your issue.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 9
From: Ottawa Ontario
If the pilot bearing is dry,or grenaded,it will grab the propshaft and keep it spinning even when the clutch is fully disengaged( it's also chewing up the end of the propshaft while it's doing this) so first or reverse will be difficult if not impossible to get in to.
Just a thought-those were my symptoms when I destroyed a pilot bearing during a clutch install,and got to do the whole thing over again.
I went with a Kevlar/Composite pilot BUSHING on the second go-round,and it's all been good for the last 6k miles...
The pilot bearing is the last piece to come out once you drop the drivetrain and remove the clutch,so I really hope that's not what's causing your issue.
Just a thought-those were my symptoms when I destroyed a pilot bearing during a clutch install,and got to do the whole thing over again.
I went with a Kevlar/Composite pilot BUSHING on the second go-round,and it's all been good for the last 6k miles...
The pilot bearing is the last piece to come out once you drop the drivetrain and remove the clutch,so I really hope that's not what's causing your issue.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria Ca.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rivetrain.html
It's a little tiny thing,doesn't look like it's worth the money,(what Vette stuff does?)but 6k later,it's working great,and no worries about f**king it up reinstalling the drivetrain,it's very forgiving,unlike the stock needle bearing arrangement.
DO NOT grease it-that will just make dirt stick to it.
BRONZE is probably ok,too,and they're like 3 bucks,but we're talkin about my Vette here....
Can't find the part # at JEGS,but this should point you in the right direction:
http://blogs.carcraft.com/6608014/ed...ngs/index.html
It's a little tiny thing,doesn't look like it's worth the money,(what Vette stuff does?)but 6k later,it's working great,and no worries about f**king it up reinstalling the drivetrain,it's very forgiving,unlike the stock needle bearing arrangement.
DO NOT grease it-that will just make dirt stick to it.
BRONZE is probably ok,too,and they're like 3 bucks,but we're talkin about my Vette here....
Can't find the part # at JEGS,but this should point you in the right direction:
http://blogs.carcraft.com/6608014/ed...ngs/index.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 9
From: Ottawa Ontario
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rivetrain.html
It's a little tiny thing,doesn't look like it's worth the money,(what Vette stuff does?)but 6k later,it's working great,and no worries about f**king it up reinstalling the drivetrain,it's very forgiving,unlike the stock needle bearing arrangement.
DO NOT grease it-that will just make dirt stick to it.
BRONZE is probably ok,too,and they're like 3 bucks,but we're talkin about my Vette here....
Can't find the part # at JEGS,but this should point you in the right direction:
http://blogs.carcraft.com/6608014/ed...ngs/index.html
It's a little tiny thing,doesn't look like it's worth the money,(what Vette stuff does?)but 6k later,it's working great,and no worries about f**king it up reinstalling the drivetrain,it's very forgiving,unlike the stock needle bearing arrangement.
DO NOT grease it-that will just make dirt stick to it.
BRONZE is probably ok,too,and they're like 3 bucks,but we're talkin about my Vette here....
Can't find the part # at JEGS,but this should point you in the right direction:
http://blogs.carcraft.com/6608014/ed...ngs/index.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Berkeley CA
Thanks so much for the help guys. I finally fixed the car. It was the clutch master cylinder. It got stuck and unable to return to normal position. It has exactly the same symptom as broken return spring, but turns out the spring is fine, but the master cylinder. Hope it helps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 9
From: Ottawa Ontario
Thanks so much for the help guys. I finally fixed the car. It was the clutch master cylinder. It got stuck and unable to return to normal position. It has exactly the same symptom as broken return spring, but turns out the spring is fine, but the master cylinder. Hope it helps.