C5 rear main seal technical question?





Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement
Tools Required
J 41479 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer
Removal Procedure
Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
Gently pry the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) from the rear cover.
Installation Procedure
Important
Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) of the crankshaft surface.
Do not reuse the crankshaft rear oil seal.
Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface.
Install the J 41479 cone (2) and bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft.
Tighten the bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
Install the rear oil seal onto the tapered cone (2) and push the seal to the rear cover bore.
Thread the J 41479 threaded rod into the tapered cone until the tool (1) contacts the oil seal.
Align the oil seal onto the tool (1).
Rotate the handle of the tool (1) clockwise until the seal enters the rear cover and bottoms into the cover bore.
Remove the J 41479 .
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
WHAT IN THE HELL does this contraindicative jumble of words want us to do????????

" Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface. "
WHY don't they want lubricant on the SEAL LIP or CRANK Sealing surface???? That goes against everything I ever been taught about seal replacement.
Can someone explain this?
Thanks
Bill





Only thing that I can think of is that it needs to lap it self in.
BC
Chuck



I always use vasoline on the lip of the seal, in the last 45 years I've never had a seal leak on the lip side unless the the sealing surface was damaged.
And that was because the customer was to cheap to do the repair correctly!
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement
Tools Required
J 41479 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer
Removal Procedure
Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
Gently pry the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) from the rear cover.
Installation Procedure
Important
Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) of the crankshaft surface.
Do not reuse the crankshaft rear oil seal.
Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface.
Install the J 41479 cone (2) and bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft.
Tighten the bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
Install the rear oil seal onto the tapered cone (2) and push the seal to the rear cover bore.
Thread the J 41479 threaded rod into the tapered cone until the tool (1) contacts the oil seal.
Align the oil seal onto the tool (1).
Rotate the handle of the tool (1) clockwise until the seal enters the rear cover and bottoms into the cover bore.
Remove the J 41479 .
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
WHAT IN THE HELL does this contraindicative jumble of words want us to do????????

" Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface. "
WHY don't they want lubricant on the SEAL LIP or CRANK Sealing surface???? That goes against everything I ever been taught about seal replacement.
Can someone explain this?
Thanks
Bill
PTFE seals are self-lubricating, and require a clean surface for correct installation. Oil or grease is permissible with older type elastomer based seals, which is why so many of these old school guys just love the vasoline.






Thanks for all the replies

Bill
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement
Tools Required
J 41479 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer
Removal Procedure
Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
Gently pry the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) from the rear cover.
Installation Procedure
Important
Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) of the crankshaft surface.
Do not reuse the crankshaft rear oil seal.
Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface.
Install the J 41479 cone (2) and bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft.
Tighten the bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
Install the rear oil seal onto the tapered cone (2) and push the seal to the rear cover bore.
Thread the J 41479 threaded rod into the tapered cone until the tool (1) contacts the oil seal.
Align the oil seal onto the tool (1).
Rotate the handle of the tool (1) clockwise until the seal enters the rear cover and bottoms into the cover bore.
Remove the J 41479 .
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
WHAT IN THE HELL does this contraindicative jumble of words want us to do????????

" Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface. "
WHY don't they want lubricant on the SEAL LIP or CRANK Sealing surface???? That goes against everything I ever been taught about seal replacement.
Can someone explain this?
Thanks
Bill
Last edited by Speedracer73; May 19, 2011 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Update






To get to the seal you have to drop the ENTIRE drive train from the bell housing back, remove the Clutch, Fly Wheel and the rear cover on the engine. Install the seal
Then reverse the procedure. I bet you it will take you DOUBLE the time if you were to do it your self!! Pluss all the parts that you dont see like new flywheel bolts etc!!
BC

To get to the seal you have to drop the ENTIRE drive train from the bell housing back, remove the Clutch, Fly Wheel and the rear cover on the engine. Install the seal
Then reverse the procedure. I bet you it will take you DOUBLE the time if you were to do it your self!! Pluss all the parts that you dont see like new flywheel bolts etc!!
BC


Have them look reeeeally close at your EOP sending unit. If it leaks/seeps enough, oil WILL drip/run down, usually over the bell housing but it's possible some may have gotten inside as well. It's possible some "tech" did a quick visual and made an incorrect snap-decision as to what he saw and "diagnosed" a rear main seal leak.
Also possible they know it's an EOP sensor of course and are merely trying to fatten their repair bill. That's where the integrity or trustworthiness of the shop (or lack of) comes in to play.
leaking making it appear as though it was the rear main seal that was leaking?
Just trying to get a feel for the odds of that happening.
Have read about guys damaging the plug trying to remove the pilot bearing.
Have them look reeeeally close at your EOP sending unit. If it leaks/seeps enough, oil WILL drip/run down, usually over the bell housing but it's possible some may have gotten inside as well. It's possible some "tech" did a quick visual and made an incorrect snap-decision as to what he saw and "diagnosed" a rear main seal leak.
Also possible they know it's an EOP sensor of course and are merely trying to fatten their repair bill. That's where the integrity or trustworthiness of the shop (or lack of) comes in to play.












