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C5 rear main seal technical question?

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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #1  
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Default C5 rear main seal technical question?

Heres the rear main seal replacement procedure right out of ESI:

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement
Tools Required
J 41479 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer

Removal Procedure




Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
Gently pry the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) from the rear cover.
Installation Procedure

Important
Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) of the crankshaft surface.
Do not reuse the crankshaft rear oil seal.





Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface.


Install the J 41479 cone (2) and bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft.
Tighten the bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
Install the rear oil seal onto the tapered cone (2) and push the seal to the rear cover bore.
Thread the J 41479 threaded rod into the tapered cone until the tool (1) contacts the oil seal.
Align the oil seal onto the tool (1).
Rotate the handle of the tool (1) clockwise until the seal enters the rear cover and bottoms into the cover bore.
Remove the J 41479 .
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .

WHAT IN THE HELL does this contraindicative jumble of words want us to do????????


" Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface. "


WHY don't they want lubricant on the SEAL LIP or CRANK Sealing surface???? That goes against everything I ever been taught about seal replacement.

Can someone explain this?

Thanks

Bill
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 09:58 AM
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i oil every seal i install and ive had no leakage issues
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 10:51 AM
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Yea,,,thats my thought process also but,,,,,I want to know why the GM procedure says NOT to do it.

Only thing that I can think of is that it needs to lap it self in.

BC
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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I could see that if it's a pretty hard nonpliable seal. I've used both GM and FelPro rear seals oiled with no issues. I've always been more concered with alinement issues than anything. Good luck with the build.
Chuck
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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Its a different material from what the older chevy motors used, and doesnt work right with oil on it. I cant give you the exact reasons, but Ive done it both ways and never had one leak, so take that for what its worth. Although it may be easier to get it on with a little bit of lubrication around the crank/seal.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 03:20 PM
  #6  
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I always use vasoline on the lip of the seal, in the last 45 years I've never had a seal leak on the lip side unless the the sealing surface was damaged.
And that was because the customer was to cheap to do the repair correctly!
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:37 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Heres the rear main seal replacement procedure right out of ESI:

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement
Tools Required
J 41479 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer

Removal Procedure




Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
Gently pry the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) from the rear cover.
Installation Procedure

Important
Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) of the crankshaft surface.
Do not reuse the crankshaft rear oil seal.





Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface.


Install the J 41479 cone (2) and bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft.
Tighten the bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
Install the rear oil seal onto the tapered cone (2) and push the seal to the rear cover bore.
Thread the J 41479 threaded rod into the tapered cone until the tool (1) contacts the oil seal.
Align the oil seal onto the tool (1).
Rotate the handle of the tool (1) clockwise until the seal enters the rear cover and bottoms into the cover bore.
Remove the J 41479 .
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .

WHAT IN THE HELL does this contraindicative jumble of words want us to do????????


" Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface. "


WHY don't they want lubricant on the SEAL LIP or CRANK Sealing surface???? That goes against everything I ever been taught about seal replacement.

Can someone explain this?

Thanks

Bill
In my previous life with Motorola Automotive, we conducted many tests on different types of seals. Most modern radial shaft seals are made of teflon(PTFE) or a similar composition. We found the most failures from said seals were do to incorrect installation. In many cases, oiling/greasing the contact point of a PTFE seal would precipitate a deposit build up, and premature failure.

PTFE seals are self-lubricating, and require a clean surface for correct installation. Oil or grease is permissible with older type elastomer based seals, which is why so many of these old school guys just love the vasoline.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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Its getting installed in a sterile environment!! That will be the cleanest crank sealing surface on the planet.

Thanks for all the replies

Bill
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Heres the rear main seal replacement procedure right out of ESI:

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement
Tools Required
J 41479 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer

Removal Procedure




Remove the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .
Gently pry the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) from the rear cover.
Installation Procedure

Important
Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) of the crankshaft surface.
Do not reuse the crankshaft rear oil seal.





Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface.


Install the J 41479 cone (2) and bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft.
Tighten the bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
Install the rear oil seal onto the tapered cone (2) and push the seal to the rear cover bore.
Thread the J 41479 threaded rod into the tapered cone until the tool (1) contacts the oil seal.
Align the oil seal onto the tool (1).
Rotate the handle of the tool (1) clockwise until the seal enters the rear cover and bottoms into the cover bore.
Remove the J 41479 .
Install the engine flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .

WHAT IN THE HELL does this contraindicative jumble of words want us to do????????


" Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface.
Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface. "


WHY don't they want lubricant on the SEAL LIP or CRANK Sealing surface???? That goes against everything I ever been taught about seal replacement.

Can someone explain this?

Thanks

Bill
I just posted a thread in the C5 Z06 forum on this. I just received an estimate today that says that my Crankshaft Main Seal needs replaced but in the parts section it says it is the rear main bearing seal set. I am very confused as to which it is and why it takes 12 man hours to do so. I mean a $60 part takes 12 hours? Can you guys help me with this? I have to give them an answer by tomorrow. They also said I would not notice anything leaking because you have to drop the pan to witness it.

Last edited by Speedracer73; May 19, 2011 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Update
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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Boy,,, I sure can!

To get to the seal you have to drop the ENTIRE drive train from the bell housing back, remove the Clutch, Fly Wheel and the rear cover on the engine. Install the seal

Then reverse the procedure. I bet you it will take you DOUBLE the time if you were to do it your self!! Pluss all the parts that you dont see like new flywheel bolts etc!!

BC
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:55 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Boy,,, I sure can!

To get to the seal you have to drop the ENTIRE drive train from the bell housing back, remove the Clutch, Fly Wheel and the rear cover on the engine. Install the seal

Then reverse the procedure. I bet you it will take you DOUBLE the time if you were to do it your self!! Pluss all the parts that you dont see like new flywheel bolts etc!!

BC
Thanks Bill. This is the car that had the broken vacuum lines due to battery acid leaking last year. It has been in my garage the whole time. I did not notice any leaks under the car. Once it gets to the shop, now they are saying the rear main seal is leaking. Could the seal have dry rotted and when they started the car, it started leaking or would it have leaked while in my garage. This particular project is estimated at $1500 so it behooves me to make sure whether or not I need to get this done or not.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Speedracer73
Thanks Bill. This is the car that had the broken vacuum lines due to battery acid leaking last year. It has been in my garage the whole time. I did not notice any leaks under the car. Once it gets to the shop, now they are saying the rear main seal is leaking. Could the seal have dry rotted and when they started the car, it started leaking or would it have leaked while in my garage. This particular project is estimated at $1500 so it behooves me to make sure whether or not I need to get this done or not.
Your rear main is not "dry rotted".

Have them look reeeeally close at your EOP sending unit. If it leaks/seeps enough, oil WILL drip/run down, usually over the bell housing but it's possible some may have gotten inside as well. It's possible some "tech" did a quick visual and made an incorrect snap-decision as to what he saw and "diagnosed" a rear main seal leak.

Also possible they know it's an EOP sensor of course and are merely trying to fatten their repair bill. That's where the integrity or trustworthiness of the shop (or lack of) comes in to play.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 02:02 PM
  #13  
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seems like a good place to ask, anyone come across the forge plug in the crankshaft
leaking making it appear as though it was the rear main seal that was leaking?
Just trying to get a feel for the odds of that happening.
Have read about guys damaging the plug trying to remove the pilot bearing.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Your rear main is not "dry rotted".

Have them look reeeeally close at your EOP sending unit. If it leaks/seeps enough, oil WILL drip/run down, usually over the bell housing but it's possible some may have gotten inside as well. It's possible some "tech" did a quick visual and made an incorrect snap-decision as to what he saw and "diagnosed" a rear main seal leak.

Also possible they know it's an EOP sensor of course and are merely trying to fatten their repair bill. That's where the integrity or trustworthiness of the shop (or lack of) comes in to play.
A friend of mine told me after I posted that when the car sits for a year the seal can shrink. Once the car is driven again it will swell up. Even though the car sat, it didn't leak in my garage. So I asked the shop would it still pass inspection and they said yes. I will get her back on the road, take it to my friend's house, put it on the lift and see for ourselves. Thank you!
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Old May 19, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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Thats what I would do... Clean it well/ monitor and see if it gets better/worse or stays the same..

BC
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