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This must be a tri layer board...I have it out and the traces are inside the board and you cannot follow them. Now im lost...
I had the same problem than you have. I'm not a good electrician so the forum advices I followed are:
1- disconnect the fuse #17 and put it back (the sound stop drastically);
2- I cleaned the 2 connections in the rubber tube between the doors and the car body.:
For me it solved the problem at 95%. I still hear a small "tac tac" but nothing compare the what I used to hear. It's the best I could do for now.
One guy on this forum told us the other day that by cleaning the 2 connections I just told you fix completely the noise problem for him.
I had the same problem than you have. I'm not a good electrician so the forum advices I followed are:
1- disconnect the fuse #17 and put it back (the sound stop drastically);
2- I cleaned the 2 connections in the rubber tube between the doors and the car body.:
For me it solved the problem at 95%. I still hear a small "tac tac" but nothing compare the what I used to hear. It's the best I could do for now.
One guy on this forum told us the other day that by cleaning the 2 connections I just told you fix completely the noise problem for him.
I have disconnected the serial bus to eliminate the doors so i dont think that would work? I have gone further into it, I have tried disconnected all of the serial bus altogether, the noise still goes. Keep in mind this is with the car off... moving the wires by the BCM seemed to make it come and go, but what doesnt make sense is that I disconnected the BCM completely and it still makes noise. This was something that came all of a sudden when it started which is very odd. I remember it being a warmer day, i had my roof off. I went to mcdonalds down the street from work with a friend, all was well. Came out from work 5 hours later and this noise was present and very loud. Anybody else got an idea short of replacing the IP board and taking it to the dealer to get the mileage reprogrammed?
Man,I can understand your frustration,that sound is worse than the sound comes across the TV when theres a hurricane or storm warning broadcasted!I hope you find the issue before you go bald!
Holy Hell! Thats flippen ugly! Man I feel SORRY for you having to listen to that crap.
That could be used in place of water boarding!!!
You could re-name your forum name to ALWAYS TOO LOUD!
Yep, that sounds like the speaker driver amp is breaking down and producing noise. Too bad we don't have schematics for that cluster, That would be fun to troubleshoot.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Sep 21, 2010 at 08:10 PM.
I guess I just dont understand how its getting any kind of signal to continue making noise well after the signals go to the amp? It continues for a few minutes after you take out the key and shut the door...until the BCM shuts it down im guessing, becuase it will start up the instant you open the door or turn the key on. I have a cluster coming, The problem I forsee is getting my mileage correct. I believe this speaker amp to be on the back board of the cluster, but im not positive. I also believe this is the same board that stores the mileage...is this correct?
You can have the mileage changed by the dealer. Just contact them and see what is required. There authorized to do it if you have all the correct paperwork for your car.
Well, an update on this...I got a new cluster, had to swap the oil pressure and temp gauges into it, but the problem is gone!!! Now I just need to have the mileage programmed as its quite far off....Anybody have an idea of what the book time is for programming the mileage so I can determine how much lube to bring with me to the dealer? Also, if I could find someone with a tech II would is this what the programming is completed through?
Thanks for the help all!
The TECH 2 will NOT be able to program the mileage. It takes special equipment. Just call around to the dealer ships and see what each one tells you. Make sure that you ask them if theres any special paperwork that you need to bring as most are very specific on documentation required to do federal stuff.
So I called my dealer today, which was about the largest Chevy dealer in the Madison area, and they told me they do not have the software to program a 2000 Corvette cluster. They said they would have to ship it out to Specmo to the tune of around $450. This sounds fairly insane...and I really dont want to remove it again, it was so nice to have my car put together for a little while!!! Any ideas? ANYBODY!!! I wish i could just somehow get a schematic for this cluster and swap components to fix my original.
Thats just INSANE! There are people on THIS FORUM that have the equipment to do what you need to adjust the mileage....
We just need to find out who they are.
Make a NEW post and ask for assistance on adjusting the mileage on a new IPC. Put it in the PARTS FOR SALE & TECH SECTION. Someone will either know who can help you or chime in and provide the service. Also GOGGLE vehicle mileage adjustment or something to that effect.
HELP!! I have the same problem with my IPC as Nevr2Loud and was following this thread to look for the problem. I tried Bill's test "The top of that connector is a shorting buss and pops off. Once its off,,it will isolate those modules from the other modules. Isolate those modules (LDCM & RDCM and SCM ) by removing the top and see if the problem clears up. If not let me know and I will dig a little deeper." and now the windows and power door lock won't operate. I have replaced the shorting block top, which is all plastic. Did I loose some metal part or what? Any idea what removing and replace this top could have done?
If you pop the tops off the serial buss connector, there should be male pins inside the top. If there isnt, they pulled out of the top and you neeed to CAREFULLY EXTRACT them from the bottom connector and glue them in the top part.
Thanks Bill, I have a meeting I was just leaving for tonight, I'll check tomorrow (There are no male pins in my top connector) and see if I can extract them from the female receiver and repair. Will let you know once I check tomorrow.
Bill,
Okay I inspected the Star 2 connector and the pins are not in it, they must have flip out to who knows where as I have searched all over the interior and exterior of the car and can't find the sucker. I did read thread ( http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-help.html ) and see Lucky131969 has a picture of the star connector and cap for the star2 connector. I found the GM part number (12167598 ) for the 12 pin plug, my local dealership wants $36 for it, so I'll be looking on line to order one. The star2 plug only has 4 wires as you know, am I looking at the right part number here, the one with 12 pins as in the picture?
Please post some pictues of your plug and cap. BOTH plugs are the same. If there is no pins in the cap, the car will not run or the door modules and , seat module will not function in any of the remote modes.
I have made pictures, but the forum will not allow me to send attachments, I will contact you direct and if you respond to that I can e-mail them to you. My car will run in the present state, but has no communication with the LDCM,RDCM, or SCM. Also as you stated the power windows, power door locks, or memory function will not work.