Magnesteer
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 418
Likes: 28
From: Evansville IN
Lurking around and just now decided to check out this thread. Here's a good explaination I found. Hope this helps.
http://www.teamzr1.com/ubbthreads/ub...at&Number=1626
http://www.teamzr1.com/ubbthreads/ub...at&Number=1626
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
info
Lurking around and just now decided to check out this thread. Here's a good explaination I found. Hope this helps.
http://www.teamzr1.com/ubbthreads/ub...at&Number=1626
http://www.teamzr1.com/ubbthreads/ub...at&Number=1626
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
Rack
It sounds like the dealer only looked to see if there were any codes rather than doing the complete diagnostic procedure. I'm afraid you are going to have to take it somewhere with a Tech 2 and the knowledge to run the complete procedure, dealer or not. Other than that you can just start throwing money at it. If you go that way I'd start with the steering rack, it's cheaper than the EBCM.
You can get the rack from Zip Products in Richmond, VA for about $200.00. I've had one in my car for over a year and 20,000 miles with no problems.
You can get the rack from Zip Products in Richmond, VA for about $200.00. I've had one in my car for over a year and 20,000 miles with no problems.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 8
From: Indian Rocks Beach FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Plenty of people have done it without a lift. I have only used a lift and some went very easy and others were a bit difficult. If you follow the manual procedure and have a helper you should be able to do it without a problem. Patience is the key!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 812
Likes: 2
From: Metairie Louisiana
It sounds like the dealer only looked to see if there were any codes rather than doing the complete diagnostic procedure. I'm afraid you are going to have to take it somewhere with a Tech 2 and the knowledge to run the complete procedure, dealer or not. Other than that you can just start throwing money at it. If you go that way I'd start with the steering rack, it's cheaper than the EBCM.
You can get the rack from Zip Products in Richmond, VA for about $200.00. I've had one in my car for over a year and 20,000 miles with no problems.
You can get the rack from Zip Products in Richmond, VA for about $200.00. I've had one in my car for over a year and 20,000 miles with no problems.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
Well it is back at the Cadillac Dealer for a pressure test. They said that they would do it no charge since they did not fix it the last time. They even gave me a Cadillac SRX to drive until they can look at my car. Customer satisfaction at it's best!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
Latest update!!
Got the car back from the Dealer today. They ran the pressure tests as per the manual and everything checked out fine!! The only casualty was the Serpentine belt which frayed during the test. It is original so I guess 7 years is OK.
BOTTOM LINE is the car is still hard to steer at low speeds and there are no codes or any other obvious problems! I have had it to 2 Dealers and twice to the one and there has been no fix!
I even went to an online Mechanic with 18 years experience "cost $9" and he suggested the same things that the Dealers tried.
Where to next?
Got the car back from the Dealer today. They ran the pressure tests as per the manual and everything checked out fine!! The only casualty was the Serpentine belt which frayed during the test. It is original so I guess 7 years is OK.
BOTTOM LINE is the car is still hard to steer at low speeds and there are no codes or any other obvious problems! I have had it to 2 Dealers and twice to the one and there has been no fix!
I even went to an online Mechanic with 18 years experience "cost $9" and he suggested the same things that the Dealers tried.
Where to next?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 8
From: Indian Rocks Beach FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Well it sounds like you've run all the tests. With the Tech 2 not showing anything wrong with the EBCM and the DIC not showing any codes I seriously doubt the EBCM is the problem. That leaves the rack.
If it were my car, at this point, I'd replace the rack. Mind you I'm not saying I'm 100% sure it's the rack but it sounds like a problem with the Magnasteer mechanism to me. Other than that I'm fresh out of ideas. Maybe someone else can chime in.
If it were my car, at this point, I'd replace the rack. Mind you I'm not saying I'm 100% sure it's the rack but it sounds like a problem with the Magnasteer mechanism to me. Other than that I'm fresh out of ideas. Maybe someone else can chime in.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
Well it sounds like you've run all the tests. With the Tech 2 not showing anything wrong with the EBCM and the DIC not showing any codes I seriously doubt the EBCM is the problem. That leaves the rack.
If it were my car, at this point, I'd replace the rack. Mind you I'm not saying I'm 100% sure it's the rack but it sounds like a problem with the Magnasteer mechanism to me. Other than that I'm fresh out of ideas. Maybe someone else can chime in.
If it were my car, at this point, I'd replace the rack. Mind you I'm not saying I'm 100% sure it's the rack but it sounds like a problem with the Magnasteer mechanism to me. Other than that I'm fresh out of ideas. Maybe someone else can chime in.
I think that I will track back the original owner to see if anything was done that may have caused the problem.
I got hold of the last owner and He contacted the guy that He bought the car from. He had only had the car a month and was not aware of the problem. The prior owner said that he was not aware of the problem! I found it funny that there was 42# of air in the front tires "make it steer easier"?
Is it possible that a wheel speed sensor could cause the problem and not set a code? I noticed on the CarFax that the rear end was alligned a few years ago! It may be possible that one was damaged during the allignment.
Any input?
Last edited by lwise4; Aug 25, 2010 at 10:55 AM. Reason: update
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
Bringing back up. Still hard to steer. Could it be pulley related? I found a post where the guy hads installed a underdrive pulley in prior years and it resulted in harder steering. My pulley is approx 3" in diameter. What should it be on a LS6?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 8
From: Indian Rocks Beach FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
If it was a result of an underdrive pulley increasing the engine RPM would alleviate the problem. Does it become easy to steer if you rev the engine?
Also I would think that sort of problem would have shown up in the pressure test the dealer performed.
Also I would think that sort of problem would have shown up in the pressure test the dealer performed.
Last edited by Mark C5; Sep 20, 2010 at 06:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
Yeah, I thought about that. The pressure test was OK and increasing the RPM's does not affect the steering. I had the car raised up today to put bumper protectors on it. While at it, I checked the PS connector, the wheel sensor connections, and the steering position sensor, all looked OK.This is a crazy problem that I guess that I will have to live with!
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 2
From: Yangpyeong Gyeonggi-Do
look on the steering rack and unplug the connector.....in theory the steering should default to hydralic and have more resistance. If you can not tell a difference at idle the rack is not adjusting to the current changes from the EBTCM. Compare at idle with plug on and plug off....you will know if you have a problem...should feel a difference. If there is no difference and the commands from the EBTCM have been checked change out the rack....
Did you perform the rack resistance checks (approx 2 ohms across coil) and both pins infinite (open to ground)? Might want to make sure the wiring is correct from the EBTCM and sommeone has not reversed it making the system operate in reverse.
Did you perform the rack resistance checks (approx 2 ohms across coil) and both pins infinite (open to ground)? Might want to make sure the wiring is correct from the EBTCM and sommeone has not reversed it making the system operate in reverse.
Last edited by seoulbrooks; Dec 5, 2010 at 05:10 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
I don't know what size it should be or if it has been changed but it measures about 3 inches in diameter. Does anyone know what the original LS6 pulley size is?
I don't know if the LS6 pulley is the same but my 98 is about 6.5" dia.
A 3" is a drastic difference in pump speed.
I don't know if the LS6 pulley is the same but my 98 is about 6.5" dia.
A 3" is a drastic difference in pump speed.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
Update!!
I jacked up the car a crawled under it to look at the Magnasteer connector. It looked fine and while there, I checked the resistance across the coil. The resistance was 2.7 Ohms. I did not check the pins to ground as it was getting dark and trying to balance the meter where I could read it and positioning two probes was too much.
I did notice that the two wires coming out of the Magnet assy were Red and Black.
Does anyone know which wires are supposed to mate? The wires from the ECBM are Grey and White as per the Service Manual but it does not mention wire color from the Magnet assy. Just a thought, they might be reversed. I am the fourth owner so someone may have previously changed them!
I jacked up the car a crawled under it to look at the Magnasteer connector. It looked fine and while there, I checked the resistance across the coil. The resistance was 2.7 Ohms. I did not check the pins to ground as it was getting dark and trying to balance the meter where I could read it and positioning two probes was too much.
I did notice that the two wires coming out of the Magnet assy were Red and Black.
Does anyone know which wires are supposed to mate? The wires from the ECBM are Grey and White as per the Service Manual but it does not mention wire color from the Magnet assy. Just a thought, they might be reversed. I am the fourth owner so someone may have previously changed them!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 18
From: Thompsons Station Tennessee
I just stumbled across the wire hookup in another thread. It said Grey to Red and Black to white.
Still looking for answers. It is now worse after three Dealer trips and $375.00!
Still looking for answers. It is now worse after three Dealer trips and $375.00!
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 2
From: Yangpyeong Gyeonggi-Do
I just checked the schematic and that is correct (EBCM Gray to High Side Red on Coil). Do you notice any difference in the steering pressure at idle if you take the EBCM plug off? Inspect pins C & D very carefully on the EBCM plug. If they look depressed use a small ice pick or dental pick to spring them back out. I was having some problems with my EBCM and this fix took care of them. Just be careful and do not break the spring pins. Also check the plug side pins for corrosion or wear.... Ck the coil pins to ground and the wiring/plugs discussed above. Good luck...Hope you find the problem
If you do not have any faults and all the wiring looks good it could be the EBCM not providing the correct output but I would not go there just yet......
If you do not have any faults and all the wiring looks good it could be the EBCM not providing the correct output but I would not go there just yet......