Stock clutch was replaced twice by GM while under warranty since I have owned the car. No longer under warranty and there I was at around 28K miles and the stock GM clutch doing the pedal to the floor again. Said screw it and bought a new slave and a slightly used CenterForce Dual Friction clutch & GM flywheel from a forum member and installed it all.

No more sticking clutch but the vibration that was only subtle before is now a bit more pronounced. I just live with it until recently when it just seems like it is getting worse.

Bought a new ATI Super Damper 10% UD thinking that maybe the balancer is the culprit (didn't want to drop drivetrain again). Install it with ARP bolt. No change in vibration.

The shifter rattling constantly was the last straw and out the drivetrain came once again.

Tried to get the clutch and flywheel balance checked and nobody in San Diego can do it. One shop said because it is an LS6 they would need the crank to balance it. Uh,,,no thank you sir.

So I decided to take a chance and buy another flywheel, thinking that the used GM flywheel with CF clutch is the problem. Ordered the F1 Racing lightweight chromoly flywheel from our favorite auction site and get it in 2 days time.

Put the car together and now I cannot select any gears with the engine running. I bleed the clutch (have LAPD remote bleeder) for the third time and no air comes out. Still no gears with engine running and just to add to this, the vibration is still there.

I said well gotta check it out so I drop the LG Streets and remove the clutch inspection cover to see what happens when the pedal is pushed to the floor. I can see the PP move a wee bit and the flywheel flexes just ever so slightly - just a wild guess but maybe a mm or two but no more than that. I see the slave compress the fingers of the PP and now wonder if I have to take it all apart to add a spacer behind the slave??

2001 Z06 with 35K miles. Just a few bolt ons and tune = 404RWHP.

Sorry for the novel people but the history of this whole deal may help find the permanent solution...so I am hoping.

 

Tick adjustable master will fix your problem.

 

If you still have your OLD FLYWHEEL, you need to balance the new fly wheel to the OLD Flywheel. My LS6 flywheel had one offset pin inserted in the outer balance holes. I had the new spec flywheel off set balanced to the old flywheel offset balance.

You do not have enough slave throw to disengage the clutch. The TICK master is an easy enough install, give that a try before you tear it down again

BC

 

The "original" flywheel that came with the car from Bowling Green is long gone during the first time the clutch was replaced under GMPP. Vibe has been there ever since.....at least to me it has. I just don't ever remember there being a vibration when I first bought the car, at that time it had 4K on it.

Thanks, but I am half way through a tear down again. Going to find the root of the issue and remove that crap *** flywheel.

 

Driveline down and out of car. Ordered new TT couplers from Mike at ECP along with a new LS7 kit and all new hydraulics. Tired of the vibration and other problems. I was hoping the new flywheel would help solve it and it has not, only created a new one. Since I bought the older stuff used from a forum member I will just assume it is now junk and replace it.

Lesson learned again!!! Well, I hope the lesson is learned because if this doesn't fix the problem then I am going to go postal.

Still have to drop the clutch assy and remove the pilot bearing but that shouldn't be too hard........

Remove TT from tranny and take TT apart to see if couplers are bad.

 

NOTE!!!!!!!!


Installing a NEW flywheel will most likely NOT solve your vibration problem. The fly wheel needs to be off set balanced to the old fly wheel. Since you no longer have the old fly wheel,, Right now your only options are to:

1. Insert weights in the fly wheel in different locations (if you have the holes in the flywheel to insert them in) until the vibration is eliminated.

2. Hire a company to come out and externally balance your engine in place. Cant tell you who they are or how much they cost but they do exist and do the procedure.

 

Out of all the people using the F1 flywheel, you are the first to have a problem with it. Like Bill said, I really dont think the flywheel is your problem.

 

Well I think part of the mystery has been solved, at least for the no clutch work part of it. When I installed the F1 f/w I used new ARP bolts.

Did I compare the two bolt sizes? NOPE.
Did I check the dimensional difference between the GM f/w and the F1 f/w? NOPE.

Well two assumptions makes me have to do the same job twice. The ARP bolts are taller at the head by at least 1/8". The F1 f/w portion that mounts against the crankshaft is a few thousandths of an inch thicker as well. So when the two distances are added up I get a clutch disk that can't move and actually the clutch disk made contact with the f/w bolt heads.

I should also point out future F1 f/w owners that the flywheel under the installation conditions I had would flex a wee bit when the clutch was disengaged (pedal to floor). I'm not sure if this matters to most users.

My car was at idle speed for maybe 5 minutes total time and there isn't a mark on it from the clutch disk.

 

BTW....ARP bolt part number from Summit is: ARP-330-2802

 

Well crap!!! Just went to the ARP website and I have the wrong freakin' bolts. Should be using the 330-2902. Son of a ...........