I have seen lots of great threads about moving the steering rack to put in a new balancer but the actual procedure is unclear. I replaced my engine and the balancer bolt came loose. I was planning on using a powerbond (standard size, non-keyed) and an ARP bolt.

Questions:
1. Do tires need to be removed or just elevated?
2. Do the two lines connected directly to the steering box need to be removed?
3. What about the ABS? There are four bolts connecting it to the frame. How much to be unbolted moved?
4. I am running 370 rwhp and drag race regularly. Is pinning necessary?
5. If pinning I see one key on the balancers. Does that mean only one pin needs to be drilled? How does it affect the balance of the unit?

 

Good Luck.

 

Thanks KP

 

Does the steering nuckle need to be detached or can the unit be moved to the side?

 

Would recommend getting the car in the air and simply dropping the cradle after supporting the motor rather than removing the steering rack.

A lot less hassle.

 

Interesting idea.

 

Really handy for cam swaps too. If you have the ground clearance, definitely give it a shot this way first.

 

"4. I am running 370 rwhp and drag race regularly. Is pinning necessary?
NO"

Anyone who tells you pinning is not necessary for anything over regular street driving is full of
You will be pulling the rack again to pin if you don't do it the first time, I also would recommend using an ARP bolt in place of the stock one.

 

Exactly my thoughts. Pin and ARP. Now which balancer? I am seeing good reveiws for the powerbond. Any thoughts?

 

No need to drop the crossmember. You can just barely squeeze the steering rack out. If gm had made slightly shorter (top to bottom) framerails, at least the driver's side, the job would be much easier. Dropping the crossmember involves supporting the motor properly and, if you want to do it right, squaring the crossmember when re-installing. Use some patience and you will get it out without anything other than some swearing. You do need to remove the p/s lines which can be accessed through the driver's side wheel well.
I personally use a 10% under ati damper. Works well. I chose to pin it which is pretty easy to do. Use what is commonly referred to as a chrysler balancer puller to remove the stock one and then get yourself some 16mmx2.0 all thread with some heavy washers and nuts to make an installation tool. Use the bearing in a normal balancer install kit. That is the correct way to do the install. One thing nice about the ati is you can install the hub itself, don't forget the a/c pulley behind it, and then bolt on the balancer. I used an arp bolt/washer, with a drop of locktite on the threads and silicone on the back of the washer with arp lube under the bolt head. The silicone acts as a lubricant, but also as a sealer. The ati hub has a keyway machined into it and the stock ls crank does not have a key so it is a channel for potential leaks. The washer will seal it when torqued properly, but the silicone helps that much more.
good luck!

 

Thanks!

 

The other answers are good and my 2 cents worth is...

1. Remove left front wheel so you can reach the lines and the steering shaft bolt.

2. Yes

3. I removed all four bolts, pushed it up a few inches and used the bottom bolts in the top holes to hold it up out of the way.

4. Yes, pin it while you're there, or not.

Also, I just dropped the left, (drivers side) of the cradle about an inch. Also note: DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHILE UNHOOKED FROM THE RACK!

HTH

 

So did you move it left or right or just move the passenger side up?

 

I slide the rack all the way out the drivers side.

 

Thanks. Is there a steering "knuckle" to disconnect?

 

Pop both tie rod outers off the spindles. There is a single clamp bolt on the steering shaft that must be loosened and the shaft can be pulled back. I've done mine a couple times. If I remember correctly I pulled it partially out the passenger side then dropped the servo end (driver's side)of the rack down and out, but I may be wrong. Keep in mind if it seems too long on one end to take out just turn the shaft on the servo to move the tie rods over to one end. It pretty much only comes out one way. Just keep rotating and fiddling with it and it will come out with nothing other than disconnecting everything. Having the radiator out of the way would make it easier.

 

Make sure you mark the steering connector and lock the steering wheel from turning inside the car.

Reason, Clockspring and Steering position Sensor.

 

I never did that, however my car does not have active handling either. I think simply centering the wheel should be fine. The shaft coming out of the servo is "D" shaped and only mates one way with the steering coupler so as long as its centered prior to removing and not moved a whole lot afterwards re-installation will be fine. It may be necessary to rotate some in order to access the pinch bolt.

 

Hey Trackboss,

It's also to keep the steering wheel from spinning and breaking the clock spring.

I typically take a bungy cord and run it down to the brake pedal.

 

Correct, as long as no one turns the wheel much that shouldn't happen.
The sensor is only functional for active handling cars? I know I have one in place, but with no a/h in my car I don't think it does anything?