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While taking my interior apart to install my new insulation kit, I somehow managed to pop my trunk switch apart when removing it from the knee bolster panel. I actually managed to pop the back of the switch apart from the piece that pokes thru the panel that has the rubber "contact" switch with the trunk graphic on it.
Anyway, there was a little gray "bumper" that I fit back inside, and then snapped it back together. It no longer works. I'm trying to figure out how pushing the button makes contact on the circuit board.
I'm guessing there must've been some sort of metal contact attached to the button that fell out. I can't find anything else that might go inside.
Does anyone have any experience with how these work? An help is appreciated! BTW, does GM still sell these? Thanks.
That is a common problem, when pulling the rear console out. It's happened to me a couple of times over the years. You more than likely didn't break/loose any thing. It's just not snapped togeather properly. Sorry to tell you that your going to have to pull it back apart, to get it to work properly. I've all ready decided, that when I pull my console out nextime, that I'm going to solder longer wires in there(about 6-8 inches) with a quick disconnect . That will eliminate disturbing the switch area that you described. Good luck.
That is a common problem, when pulling the rear console out. It's happened to me a couple of times over the years. You more than likely didn't break/loose any thing. It's just not snapped togeather properly. Sorry to tell you that your going to have to pull it back apart, to get it to work properly. I've all ready decided, that when I pull my console out nextime, that I'm going to solder longer wires in there(about 6-8 inches) with a quick disconnect . That will eliminate disturbing the switch area that you described. Good luck.
I think you're talking about the fuel door switch, the OP is talking about the truck release/fog light switch. but I like your idea, I've been meaning to do this for a while. the plastic housing around my fuel door switch is broken because of it being pulled out by accident when I couldn't reach. I don't think that much of an extension is needed but an easier to get to quick disconnect is definitely in order! after that I'm going to seal the stock connector in place so it won't come out anymore. that was one of GM's poorer designs with this car! (I know, hard to believe right!)
and speaking of which...sorry to get a little off topic but...anyone know how much current is pulled through that switch when the solenoid is activated? the factory wires on it are pretty large and I'm sure a solenoid would be capable of pulling a decent current load, but it all depends on the size. at lest the fuel door one isn't pulling against a heavy resistance (just a pin and its spring I guess)
I have my fuel door hooked up to a remote so I hardly ever use the button under the console anymore, but that doesn't mean I don't want it to work just in case!
I think you're talking about the fuel door switch, the OP is talking about the truck release/fog light switch. but I like your idea, I've been meaning to do this for a while. the plastic housing around my fuel door switch is broken because of it being pulled out by accident when I couldn't reach. I don't think that much of an extension is needed but an easier to get to quick disconnect is definitely in order! after that I'm going to seal the stock connector in place so it won't come out anymore. that was one of GM's poorer designs with this car! (I know, hard to believe right!)
Your absolutely right. I was referrimg to the fuel door switch. It didn't sink in that op was discussing trunk switch. LOL. Actually, I've never heard of one having a problem w/ that switch. Good luck to the op.
Yup, I'm talking about the trunk switch. It came apart and I'm trying to figure out how pushing the rubber button causes contact on the circuit board. The only thing I found was the little gray rubber bumper. There must've been some sort of metal contact press-fit onto the switch I'm guessing, but I couldn't find anything.
Buying a new switch is the last resort. Thanks for the thoughts, keep 'em coming!
I've tried to take that switch apart with no luck, it clips together and then is sealed somehow, glued maybe. it looked like it would have to be cut apart to me. I'm really surprised yours fell apart by accident.
somewhere in one of the LED modification threads I'm pretty sure I saw a pic posted of someone who took that switch apart in order do a more elaborate LED installation in there. I wish I could provide a link but its out there somewhere. if you could find that post maybe you could PM whoever did it and ask? if the switch were easy to take apart I'd take mine apart and post pics or something.
mine actually has a plastic piece broken off inside it due to learning the hard way that when using the aftermarket LED modules for the C5 you need to discard the black base and move the LED parts into the stock base. the aftermarket ones don't fit right even though they are designed for the C5. a piece broke off and rattles around inside the switch. sometimes it gets in the wrong place and prevents the buttons from being pushed (trunk usually) I have to take the switch out, shake it to move the piece around, then all is well. only happens when I have the switch out of the dash and reinstall it and that piece ends up in the wrong place. I wish I could get it out of there!
I've tried to take that switch apart with no luck, it clips together and then is sealed somehow, glued maybe. it looked like it would have to be cut apart to me. I'm really surprised yours fell apart by accident.
somewhere in one of the LED modification threads I'm pretty sure I saw a pic posted of someone who took that switch apart in order do a more elaborate LED installation in there. I wish I could provide a link but its out there somewhere.
I've had carbon fiber applied to my dash pieces by Apsis. My guess is that they took the switch apart in order to make application easier. It was my fault it fell apart since I got lazy and pried on the wrong part of the switch to pop it out. I think they're sonically welded at the factory, but there are also tabs that allow it to snap together, and they seem to hold pretty well.
I'll search for the LED post you mention and see what I can find. Thanks for the thought!
The contact is made via a rubber cone shaped spring light grey rubber piece with a conductive carbon button on it. If that's all you need I might have a few laying around...
with TSTAR. From your first post, you have all the parts just not placed correctly. The gray cone should fit against the trunk button with the black carbon disk pointing to the circuit board. I personally have not had this button apart but have taken several TC buttons apart to add LED's. If you need help PM me, I am in north Orange County.
Wow, thanks Tim and Gary! I have the gray rubber bummer, but where does it get placed on the switch? There are 2 round "holes", one shallow and one deep. I presume it goes over one of those? I had it reversed with the narrow end containing the dark piece facing AWAY from the circuit board. Crafty setup!
Thanks so much for responding. Please help me get this gray piece placed properly.
Hey, got it working guys! Narrow end of bumper goes into shallow "hole", exposing carbon button when pressed. Thanks so much for helping. You guys saved me from wasting money on a new switch!!