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URGENT! Brake Problems!

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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 03:47 PM
  #21  
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Update: Seems like the proportional valve was malfunctioning because I would blow air into and no air will come out either side. Now the new one I purchased air comes out on each side. My concern now is should I do a complete bleed of the system in terms of disconnecting brake lines or other things now that I am installing a new proportional valve? I don't want to mess it up this little valve cost me $130.00.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by C5VetteMIA
Update: Seems like the proportional valve was malfunctioning because I would blow air into and no air will come out either side. Now the new one I purchased air comes out on each side. My concern now is should I do a complete bleed of the system in terms of disconnecting brake lines or other things now that I am installing a new proportional valve? I don't want to mess it up this little valve cost me $130.00.

What do I get since I guessed right.

You'll need to go to a dealer or find someone with a Tech2 to do the bleeding correctly.

The Tech2 does and automated bleed on each individual line circuit.

In the mean time, just do a normal bleed job after replacing the proportioning valve and then go hit a dealer up for the automated bleed procedure.

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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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Does the new valve come with the proportioning spring in it already or do you have to reuse the spring from the old valve? If you want more rear braking this may be the time to switch over to the DRM proportioning spring which adds more rear brake bias.

Bill
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 04:38 PM
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Yes comes with a spring already in it. I was looking for the DRM one but on the website I did not find anything on the proportioning spring or valve so I assumed they did not sell it anymore.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by C5VetteMIA
Yes comes with a spring already in it. I was looking for the DRM one but on the website I did not find anything on the proportioning spring or valve so I assumed they did not sell it anymore.
Their website isn't the most user friendly. I searched under brake bias spring and found it:
http://dougrippie.com/?p=404

I would give them a call to make sure this is the C5 version which only applies to 97 through 00 C5s. After 00 GM didn't use a spring.

Bill
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
Their website isn't the most user friendly. I searched under brake bias spring and found it:
http://dougrippie.com/?p=404

I would give them a call to make sure this is the C5 version which only applies to 97 through 00 C5s. After 00 GM didn't use a spring.

Bill

Don't do the DRM spring. There are (3) different versions of the spring and if you get the wrong one you will have the same problems as you're having now.

Ask me how I know
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
Don't do the DRM spring. There are (3) different versions of the spring and if you get the wrong one you will have the same problems as you're having now.

Ask me how I know
That is why I said to call them. It is always risky ordering parts on line and should be avoided if at all possible. Randy will be able to answer the question and make sure he gets the correct part.

Bill
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
That is why I said to call them. It is always risky ordering parts on line and should be avoided if at all possible. Randy will be able to answer the question and make sure he gets the correct part.

Bill
Unless he's racing, I'd skip it. We talked to randy and could never figure it out.

No real need for it unless you're driving the vette really hard.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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FINAL: Once I replaced the valve all is fine. Once I put the vehicle in drive or reverse it moves normally without the any touching of the gas pedal. My front rotors possibly could have been bent from all the heat that they have taken because they still are sticky. But I am putting new rotors in tomorrow and pads to see how all works out but at least I can drive thanks to all especially ajg1915 if and when your in Miami I'll buy you a beer .
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by C5VetteMIA
FINAL: Once I replaced the valve all is fine. Once I put the vehicle in drive or reverse it moves normally without the any touching of the gas pedal. My front rotors possibly could have been bent from all the heat that they have taken because they still are sticky. But I am putting new rotors in tomorrow and pads to see how all works out but at least I can drive thanks to all especially ajg1915 if and when your in Miami I'll buy you a beer .
Glad you got it all fixed up. Might be down your way towards the end of September.
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
Unless he's racing, I'd skip it. We talked to randy and could never figure it out.

No real need for it unless you're driving the vette really hard.
I'm still at a complete loss about your friend's spring. I tested it against the other known good springs and it's exactly the same.

Randy
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
I'm still at a complete loss about your friend's spring. I tested it against the other known good springs and it's exactly the same.

Randy
Me too!! I figured once the OP gets everything working right and wants to add this upgrade, that's fine.

Just thought he should resolve the primary problem first. DRM makes some awesome stuff, I guess we were just one of the unlucky ones that it did not work right with.

Starting to think that maybe the proportioning valve in Keith's car was not the original.

Seems there a subtle differences and I think that this was our problem.

Thanks Randy as always for help.
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