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Lately I can't leave my car for more than a day or two without the battery completely draining. I recently had to rebuild the ignition switch to fix other issues I was having, and since then I have the ghost key and my battery keeps dying. It's really turning into a huge pain in the backside. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
I had a problem with my battery draining fast. I messed with fuses and didnt figure it out so I took the vette to an auto electric shop. They found that my Power Seat had a short and was draining my battery. No problems at all since getting that fixed.
Disconnect one side of your battery, and install a test light to that cable, then to the battery. The light should come on, indicating a draw. Now start pulling fuses one at a time, till the light goes out. That will be your draw. Works on oldschool stuff, should work on new stuff.
Disconnect one side of your battery, and install a test light to that cable, then to the battery. The light should come on, indicating a draw. Now start pulling fuses one at a time, till the light goes out. That will be your draw. Works on oldschool stuff, should work on new stuff.
TEST LIGHT WILL NOT WORK on any of the newer cars t test for current draw! There is a CONSTANT 25ma designed draw ALL the time! The light will NEVER go out!
The BCM, PCM, draw KEEP ALIVE current all the time. You have to use a DC Amp Meter to trouble shoot this issue. PERIOD!
There are several COMMON things that cause excessive current draw
-Seat multifunction switch & Lumbar Switch
- Bose Amp relay stuck on
- Alternator didoes bad and drawing current
- Headlight control module bad
- Interior light on (check in the dark)
- Added aftermarket accessory not shutting off
Do you have a known good battery? If I remember correctly a fully charged battery should read no less than 12.7dcv
The "standard" is 2.11v per cell, so a battery should read 12.66v. That's not to say it won't hold a higher charge for a period of time though. Once settled, they should float at that voltage though. I wouldn't call a battery sitting below that voltage bad either.
TEST LIGHT WILL NOT WORK on any of the newer cars t test for current draw! There is a CONSTANT 25ma designed draw ALL the time! The light will NEVER go out!
The BCM, PCM, draw KEEP ALIVE current all the time. You have to use a DC Amp Meter to trouble shoot this issue. PERIOD!
There are several COMMON things that cause excessive current draw
-Seat multifunction switch & Lumbar Switch
- Bose Amp relay stuck on
- Alternator didoes bad and drawing current
- Headlight control module bad
- Interior light on (check in the dark)
- Added aftermarket accessory not shutting off
BC
Ok, so assuming that I have not the slightest clue where to start, how to I go about testing the common things? Will I need special tools?