What is wrong with my headlight?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
What is wrong with my headlight?
The stupid **** keeps locking after I raise/lower the lights.
There isn't any grinding or other noises. It works fine if I turn the **** but will usually become "tight" again after 2-3 uses.
I sprayed WD-40 under the **** and it didn't help much.
What needs to be replaced?
Thanks, BTW.
There isn't any grinding or other noises. It works fine if I turn the **** but will usually become "tight" again after 2-3 uses.
I sprayed WD-40 under the **** and it didn't help much.
What needs to be replaced?
Thanks, BTW.
Last edited by FakeSaleen; Aug 4, 2010 at 03:33 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Nope. No play in the headlight.
It just locks up and needs a few twists to manually open them again.
I took it to a Corvette shop and he said just manually turn it when it happens.
He said the motor was fine.
It just locks up and needs a few twists to manually open them again.
I took it to a Corvette shop and he said just manually turn it when it happens.
He said the motor was fine.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 154
Likes: 1
From: Huntley Illinois
There are (2) small bolts that my headlight assembly pivots on when opening and closing. When I replaced the damaged headlight gear I found these were very tight and the assembly didn't pivot freely. I believe that is what damaged my gear. Might be worth a look.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 7
From: Iowa
yeah, with mine the headilght turns on. I can hear the door trying to open but it just won't. the **** feels tight. turning the lights on and off one door opens fine the other sits there and does nothing. I can manually rotate it just 1/2 a turn, just to barely loosen it up and then the headlight will open just fine. and I can turn the lights on and off and everything works perfectly until the next time it acts up.
one time and one time only both lights did this at the same time! the same fix solved it and the driver's side has been fine since, its only the passenger's side that acts up. rotating the **** even the smallest bit fixes the problem. still hoping for some answers!
one time and one time only both lights did this at the same time! the same fix solved it and the driver's side has been fine since, its only the passenger's side that acts up. rotating the **** even the smallest bit fixes the problem. still hoping for some answers!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
yeah, with mine the headilght turns on. I can hear the door trying to open but it just won't. the **** feels tight. turning the lights on and off one door opens fine the other sits there and does nothing. I can manually rotate it just 1/2 a turn, just to barely loosen it up and then the headlight will open just fine. and I can turn the lights on and off and everything works perfectly until the next time it acts up.
one time and one time only both lights did this at the same time! the same fix solved it and the driver's side has been fine since, its only the passenger's side that acts up. rotating the **** even the smallest bit fixes the problem. still hoping for some answers!
one time and one time only both lights did this at the same time! the same fix solved it and the driver's side has been fine since, its only the passenger's side that acts up. rotating the **** even the smallest bit fixes the problem. still hoping for some answers!
Almost word for word except I don't hear the door trying to open.
I was kinda shocked that a corvette shop just told me to just keep turning the **** until a repair on the gear/motor is warranted.
It's actually getting kind of embarrassing having to pop the hood, unscrew the ****, and then hop back into the car.
Sometimes I get lucky and they will both pop up.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: There's only one Oklahoma
Cliff: the nylon bump stop for closed is probably damaged. There are two on top for the open position which are oriented differently. Try switching the lower one with one of the uppers. Access is easier if you take the headlight surround off first.
I had the same issue after changing the gear out. There is a nylon bump stop under the headlight motor which developed a divot at the contact point. It seemed like the rotating arm assembly was hyper-extended and locked up so the light wouldn't open without twisting the manual ****. I turned the nylon piece over and the headlight worked for a few weeks before developing the same problem. On inspection, the stop had a new divot on the other side. I guess they damage easier after they get old and brittle. I wrapped a small piece of sheet metal around it and it worked once again, that is until it fell off. I don't see this complaint often so I thought it was just my luck but maybe the metal gears pound on the stop harder and cause the divot when the plastic gets old.
I had the same issue after changing the gear out. There is a nylon bump stop under the headlight motor which developed a divot at the contact point. It seemed like the rotating arm assembly was hyper-extended and locked up so the light wouldn't open without twisting the manual ****. I turned the nylon piece over and the headlight worked for a few weeks before developing the same problem. On inspection, the stop had a new divot on the other side. I guess they damage easier after they get old and brittle. I wrapped a small piece of sheet metal around it and it worked once again, that is until it fell off. I don't see this complaint often so I thought it was just my luck but maybe the metal gears pound on the stop harder and cause the divot when the plastic gets old.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Cliff: the nylon bump stop for closed is probably damaged. There are two on top for the open position which are oriented differently. Try switching the lower one with one of the uppers. Access is easier if you take the headlight surround off first.
I had the same issue after changing the gear out. There is a nylon bump stop under the headlight motor which developed a divot at the contact point. It seemed like the rotating arm assembly was hyper-extended and locked up so the light wouldn't open without twisting the manual ****. I turned the nylon piece over and the headlight worked for a few weeks before developing the same problem. On inspection, the stop had a new divot on the other side. I guess they damage easier after they get old and brittle. I wrapped a small piece of sheet metal around it and it worked once again, that is until it fell off. I don't see this complaint often so I thought it was just my luck but maybe the metal gears pound on the stop harder and cause the divot when the plastic gets old.
I had the same issue after changing the gear out. There is a nylon bump stop under the headlight motor which developed a divot at the contact point. It seemed like the rotating arm assembly was hyper-extended and locked up so the light wouldn't open without twisting the manual ****. I turned the nylon piece over and the headlight worked for a few weeks before developing the same problem. On inspection, the stop had a new divot on the other side. I guess they damage easier after they get old and brittle. I wrapped a small piece of sheet metal around it and it worked once again, that is until it fell off. I don't see this complaint often so I thought it was just my luck but maybe the metal gears pound on the stop harder and cause the divot when the plastic gets old.
Do you think you could show a picture of what you're talking about or maybe a diagram of some sort?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: There's only one Oklahoma
Sorry, no good at pictures and I knew what I was talking about. I talk with my hands and that doesn't translate well.
At the top, rear of each headlight cover, you will see two white nylon blocks, about 1/2 inch wide. There is a third one under each headlight motor just outboard of the frame rail. They slide on to sheet metal tabs that are part of the headlight assembly frame. The lower one is the bump stop when the headlight closes. My guess is since there are two for opening and one for closing, the single one gets hit a lot harder and damaged. Try switching the lower one for one of the top two.
I'll try to get a twelve year old to show me how to post pictures.
At the top, rear of each headlight cover, you will see two white nylon blocks, about 1/2 inch wide. There is a third one under each headlight motor just outboard of the frame rail. They slide on to sheet metal tabs that are part of the headlight assembly frame. The lower one is the bump stop when the headlight closes. My guess is since there are two for opening and one for closing, the single one gets hit a lot harder and damaged. Try switching the lower one for one of the top two.
I'll try to get a twelve year old to show me how to post pictures.
Last edited by 2K2 C5; Aug 9, 2010 at 11:14 PM. Reason: cuz
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: There's only one Oklahoma
Okay, found some pictures in the DIY sticky, post 23. On pictures 2 and 11 (I just counted them, they're not actually numbered). Picture two shows one of the upper yellowish bump stops, just to the right of the motor and peaking out from under the headlight cover. In picture 11, the lower bump stops are shown to the right of the headlight control module. On mine, the upper of these was damaged and the headlight jammed shut. I switched the damaged tab in 11 for a good one in 2. May not be the problem but I tried it before I spent $200 on a new headlight control module. Turns out the module was okay.
I also learned after reviewing the pictures that there are two lower ones. I only got to the upper of the two when I found it damaged. I haven't checked the other one yet to see if it was affected also.
I also learned after reviewing the pictures that there are two lower ones. I only got to the upper of the two when I found it damaged. I haven't checked the other one yet to see if it was affected also.
Last edited by 2K2 C5; Aug 9, 2010 at 11:17 PM.
