So I was having some fun drivin my car tonight. After some hard driving I was crusing in 4th. I went to shift into 5th and the lever was stuck. I kept shaking and pushing into it came out of 4th, but then it wouldn't go into any gears. I pulled off the freeway, and banged it around for a while. Eventually it would go into 2nd and 4th, but 1st, 3rd, and 5th were not working. Then after some more shaking, I had 2nd, 4th, and 5th. I kept driving, and eventually I had all the gears (after 10-15 minutes of driving.

However, I am grinding going into 3rd at high RPMS. Not a long grind, but a couple of hard clicks and then it goes in....

What could cause this...synchros? It seems wierd that I couldn't get it into the gears for a while. I have a cam that shakes my drivetrain like crazy, could something not be aligned right?
Thanks!

 

ok, drove the car some more today Shifts through all gears on an upshift just fine, but downshifting into 3rd makes a nasty grind...

Could this be linkage, or is it a bad syncro?

 

I have the same problem but it grinds into 4th gear no matter what speed or rpm im at. This is why im pretty sure its the syncro. Its slowly spreading to 3rd gear. Im pulling out my trans next weekend and having it rebuilt by tickperformance and im going to install a monster stg3 clutch along with a tick clutch master cylinder and remote bleeder. Hopefully this will solve all shifting problems

 

Syncro for sure!! Trust me! It will continue to get worse.. As Louis @ LGM told me... "The Damage is done"!

Had mine rebuilt back in Feb and love it!! It's about that time!

 

yep...just tried double clutching and the problem went away...

Looks like I'm double clutching the rest of the summer....

 

Take a peek at our T56 Rebuild prices & options - we pride ourselves on being one of the most affordable options on the market.

http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ages/corvette/

 

you may very well have some worn syncros ,however before taking such drastic measures I suggest making sure the clutch is releasing ,and as it may not be releasing all the way you are forcing the syncros which in turn may have forced the shifter to go half way into gear causing the stuck shifter problem you describe.FLUSH AND BLEED THE CLUTCH first then take a look at the shifter factory shifters are pretty crappy esp. when compared to aftermarket.Furthermore if syncros are bad they rarely go bad all at once they gradually wear and the car will pop out of gearesp. when cruisin' at light throttle and you have your hand on the shifter and vyou put light pressure on the shifter and it slides out of gear.Before flushing verify that clutch fluid is full if there is a leak you may not notice any drips under the car if low top off and test drive.always do cheap and or easy fix's first ...GOOD LUCK ...POST WHAT YOU FIND OUT

 

Thanks for the tip, so now that all the gears are shifting, but I am getting a grind on the 4-3 downshift, do you still think that the clutch could be the problem?

Right now f I put it in neutral, increase my RPMS by 30% and then push the clutch in, it will go right into 3rd with no grind. Thanks for the help!

 

I have a high pitched whine when upshifting 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 at around 3k RPM. This started when I installed Amsoil ATF. I have since replaced the Amsoil with Mobil 1 on the advice of Tremec reps.

Is this noise a sign of failing snychros?

Thanks

 

Just checked the fluid...I couldn't see a level indicator?? Where is the full mark? It said something about a step on the cap, but I had no idea..I guess I'm an idiot.

I'll tell you this though, the fluid is a cloudy black grey color....

I think I'll do a flush this weekend and see what happens

 

I can second the point about the clutch. If you have a slight drag at the clutch, it can affect your ability to get the transmission in gear. My case seems to be exhaust heat affecting the clutch fluid. After bleeding it, I was shifting very cleanly again. If you push the pedal to the floor, put the car in reverse, and the car lurches, or it's difficult to get the car into reverse, it's dragging for sure. Pilot bearing failure can apparently also cause drag.

A local area tuner made a very nice modification to my car when he installed a new clutch, something he does for all of his customers. He installs a braided clutch fluid bleeding line with a check-valve bleeder on the end of it. He routes it back up to the engine compartment near the master cylinder. To change the clutch fluid, I just vac out the fluid in the reservoir, add new, put a catch bottle on the bleeder screw, open it and pump the pedal (you could also use a motive products pressure bleeder with the right adapter). I'm still going to insulate the clutch line to see if I can avoid this problem for longer, but if you read the service manual procedure, you can see how this modification is a huge time saver.


Mike
99 Z51 coupe, LS2

 

So, it drove fine (grinding into third) for a few weeks, and now a slight grind going into 4th, and it keeps wanting to get stuck in third or forth. Also, when I try to put it into 3rd or 4th, the shifter lever just wobbles and pushes back....

Does this sound like the clutch isn't fully releasing?

 

Dude its a broken synchronizer trust me. Tickperformance just rebuilt mine and the problem is solved. This grinding and shifting trouble is only gonna get worse. The cause is from bad clutch hydraulics. You're gonna NEED a new clutch master cylinder, the one that tick sells and a remote bleeder

 

To check the clutch is fully disengaging, put the car in 1st gear on a level surface w/o anything in front of vehicle. Holding clutch pedal to the floor bring the rpms up to 6k slowly and make sure the car doesn't creep forward. My guess is the tranny needs to be rebuilt, but you could try swapping your tranny fluid to see if it helps. Good luck, Chris