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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 10:25 PM
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Default instrument panel failure

I have recently acquired a 2001 corvette, I have always wanted one and recieved one for Christmas last year from my husband. It only has 20000 miles on it was in perfect condition inside and out. Well, the instrument panel has just quit working. It did while I was driving a couple times, lasting about a second or two, then a few weeks later it just quits working. Can anyone tell me what could have caused this? Please help!
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rocketUSA
I have recently acquired a 2001 corvette, I have always wanted one and recieved one for Christmas last year from my husband. It only has 20000 miles on it was in perfect condition inside and out. Well, the instrument panel has just quit working. It did while I was driving a couple times, lasting about a second or two, then a few weeks later it just quits working. Can anyone tell me what could have caused this? Please help!
Are you referring to the cluster? This contains your speedo, tach, guages etc.
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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What exactly quit working, Gages, lights, both,,,, ect.... When it quits are there anything else that malfunctions??

Read and post your Disgnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) and post the results. If there are too many to list,, just clear them and then drive the car and then post what comes back.

Heres how:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

BC
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FirethornC5
Are you referring to the cluster? This contains your speedo, tach, guages etc.
Yes, the guage cluster isn't working, including the heads up display, there is nothing working on that panel. The stereo, air conditioning, etc... works. I can still drive it.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
What exactly quit working, Gages, lights, both,,,, ect.... When it quits are there anything else that malfunctions??

Read and post your Disgnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) and post the results. If there are too many to list,, just clear them and then drive the car and then post what comes back.

Heres how:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

BC
Nothing in the guage cluster works including the place where the mileage displays. (this is also where the codes would read), the heads up display, gas level, speed, etc.. included. The car is drivable, everything else works on the car. I plan to get the service manual. We had taken the car to a certified chevrolet mechanic, but they said they weren't experienced enough to work on it! I have considered taking it to Bowling Green, where it was built. I thought it may be something simple with the wiring since it went off a couple times before it quit. I appreciate any advice from you.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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Since the IP is not operating for all gauges, a couple of questions.

1. Did this happen the first time after going over some kind of bump?
2. Are the bezels around the gauges black?
3. Has the IP been removed recently, or at all?

If the answer to questions 1 and 3 are yes, I would guess that the connector for the IP has come loose.

If question 2 is yes, it is less likely the IP has been removed. However, if it is no, the IP has been removed and it is more likely that the connector was not put back tightly.

Let us know the answer to these questions to provide further assistance.

Gary
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketUSA
Nothing in the guage cluster works including the place where the mileage displays. (this is also where the codes would read), the heads up display, gas level, speed, etc.. included. The car is drivable, everything else works on the car. I plan to get the service manual. We had taken the car to a certified chevrolet mechanic, but they said they weren't experienced enough to work on it! I have considered taking it to Bowling Green, where it was built. I thought it may be something simple with the wiring since it went off a couple times before it quit. I appreciate any advice from you.
We are going to try to read the codes like you suggested, if the display will work for that procedure.
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverC54me
Since the IP is not operating for all gauges, a couple of questions.

1. Did this happen the first time after going over some kind of bump?
2. Are the bezels around the gauges black?
3. Has the IP been removed recently, or at all?

If the answer to questions 1 and 3 are yes, I would guess that the connector for the IP has come loose.

If question 2 is yes, it is less likely the IP has been removed. However, if it is no, the IP has been removed and it is more likely that the connector was not put back tightly.

Let us know the answer to these questions to provide further assistance.

Gary
I am not sure if I went over a bump when it happened, it is too dark to see the bezels(the lights won't work for the guages), I will check tomorrow and post, and it has not been romoved to my knowledge. I will try to check and see if the connection is loose tomorrow. Thank you for your advice.
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by FirethornC5
Are you referring to the cluster? This contains your speedo, tach, guages etc.
yes
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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Sounds like a Class II serial data buss issue OR the BCM is WET.

Codes, read and post the DTCS
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Hopefully it will be a simple fix but if all else fails I have a complete HUD enabled cluster I will sell to you. The odom has around 74K on it so you will need to take it to the dealership to get it reset to the correct mileage.

I hope you find out it nothing more than a loose connection.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketUSA
I am not sure if I went over a bump when it happened, it is too dark to see the bezels(the lights won't work for the guages), I will check tomorrow and post, and it has not been romoved to my knowledge. I will try to check and see if the connection is loose tomorrow. Thank you for your advice.
I finally checked the bezels are black.
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketUSA
I finally checked the bezels are black.
Hi,just wondering what your fix was. I am suffering the exact same problem now. Thanks
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by thematrix17
Hi,just wondering what your fix was. I am suffering the exact same problem now. Thanks
My husband and I removed the instrument cluster and sent it to instrumentclusters.com. The company is southern electronics in Richmond Virginia. They had to replace an internal chip. We did it this way so our mileage would remain. It has been working fine ever since. We printed out the instructions to remove the cluster from vetteessentials.com. It's the installation of aluminum gauge bezels.
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by thematrix17
Hi,just wondering what your fix was. I am suffering the exact same problem now. Thanks
My husband and I removed the instrument cluster and sent it to instrumentclusters.com. The company is southern electronics in Richmond Virginia. They had to replace an internal chip. We did it this way so our mileage would remain. It has been working fine ever since. We printed out the instructions to remove the cluster from vetteessentials.com. It's the installation of aluminum gauge bezels.
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketUSA
My husband and I removed the instrument cluster and sent it to instrumentclusters.com. The company is southern electronics in Richmond Virginia. They had to replace an internal chip. We did it this way so our mileage would remain. It has been working fine ever since. We printed out the instructions to remove the cluster from vetteessentials.com. It's the installation of aluminum gauge bezels.
Thanks Rocket, I am ordering a new cluster today..
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