I am starting to think it is, as you may have stumbled on, the wires at the switch. I am going ot hit the TDR wire this weekend and see what I got. You gonna be around here Saturday?

If not, what I am looking for is 12 volts on the yellow wire when I start it?

Also, I think i am going to do the resistor bypass Saturday as well.

 

If you have 12 volts at the TDR yellow wire, then the clutch switch has to be good !!

What is going on with the security light during this whole exercise?

 

I agree Lucky that the TDR is good. I always hear clicks from the passenger floorboard side of the car. Real easy to hear with the access panel removed.

The security light is on steady when the code is set. I always get the B2721H when it doesn't start, but when it is current the light is on. The P1631 happens about 50% of the time. I don't remember exactly if I had the light on or not before the wire jiggle manuever. So, out of simple curiosity, I started the car again today to see. No security light at all and the car started right up first try.

 

When I open the driver door the Security light flashes, is it supposed to do this? Once I close the door, it quits flashing. Is this proper? Just want to be sure that it is not another symptom. It does this everytime I get into the car.

 

Yes, and is described as such in your owners manual.

 

Thanks. I am at work, so didnt have a chance to look it up before asking.

 

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/download...03corvette.pdf

 

Thanks!

 

Ok, explain this. Security light came on during my ride home, when I got home I shut the car off and waited about 20 seconds and started it up. Started right up and no Security light. What does that mean? Is it a clue??

 

On page 8-723 of my 2001 set of manuals it states the following:

If the PASS-Key system detects an open or short to ground when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, the BCM will default to fail enable mode. Fail enable occurs when the proper key resistance is sensed before the open short to ground occurs. Fail enable will illuminate the security indicator lamp and allow the operator to stop and start the vehicle until the problem is corrected. The PASS-Key system includes the following components:
Ignition key
Ignition cylinder
BCM
TDR
PCM
Security Indicator

So it breaks down like this:

If the PASS-Key system detects an open or short to ground when the ignition switch is in the RUN position (this means you may have started the car already). ******THIS IS WHY********

Fail enable occurs when the proper key resistance is sensed before the open short to ground occurs.(this means the lock cylinder is doing what it should and reads the key pellet at least at the time the car is started).

Fail enable will illuminate the security indicator lamp and allow the operator to stop and start the vehicle until the problem is corrected. (basically it is acting just like the SES light to let us all know the security system is not working properly..This is why you see the security light when driving...and why I do to at times).

 

Got it, thanks.

So I checked the voltage on the yellow wire. I only saw it register 10.9 volts when I started it. It very well could have hit 12 but it moved up and then back down so quick I am not for sure if it hit 12 or not.

 

Update.... But I am not going to say this very loud...... whisper mode on: No Security light since Friday....

As stated above, I hit the yellow wire and got 10.9 volts. Could have been higher but it moved so quick, I dont know if it went past 10.9 or not. Anyway, when I was done with that, I took my electrical cleaner spray and sprayer out the connection that the inline relay hooks to. Cleaned the heck out of it. I also disconnected the plugs from the BCM and noticed a little bit of corrosion on them, nothing to serious, but cleaned them as well. I need to take a picture of something I found, you wont believe it. I will post it this weekend.

Keeping my fingers crossed that the Security light was just a corrosion issue.....

 

Corroded contacts on the TDR will not precipitate a security light, although it could result in a no start condition. On the other hand, corroded connectors on the BCM could cause the issue you've been having.

 

Fingers crossed for you.

 

Well my car is officially not starting anymore and now the steering wheel is locked. My security light is on and it does NOT blink.

Update: I did the resistor bypass and started right up. Guess my ignition cylinder is out.

 

I realize this is an older post; "but" my car just developed the same symptom... what finally corrected this phenomenum?

 

Create you own thread, and post your codes.

 

I apologize everyone for not updating this. I have not had the security light/no start problem since. I think the cleaning of the connection worked. Only way i can explain it.

I did experiance a no start again and started a new thread on it becuase the security light never came on..