So lets look at your application and HP goals and budget then and come up with a solid game plan instead

 

well my dad has a 500 HP N/A 383 in his c3
and my grandfather has a 550 HP N/A 427 Katech in his c5

so im just dying to out perform them both hahaha

 

Easy enough. We can deliver 600+ n/a on pump 91 octane gas if you want. Its all about the budget.

 

We talking RW or FW hp?

 

RW I was going by.

 

I figured you were but I wasn't sure which the OP is refering to. For 600 rwhp NA he better have a pretty nice wallet. Will deff. require some cubes if you want to keep it streetable.

 

yea thats flywheel
600 rwhp is a bit out of my price range

but the budget is about 7k give or take
its not going to be an over night project. i plan on saving and doing it how i want even if it takes a little longer

but if you feel you can get 600 at the wheels for a reasonable price im all ears

Danny

 

.........but im already pretty set on 396ci with a callies forged bottom end

 

Did we already talk about this? I had a conversation with someone abuot a 396 like a month or two ago?

 

yea but im always open to other peoples opinions if they have any input, thats all

 

A 396ci would be pretty nasty but for $800 you can buy a 6.0L block and build more cubes for the same money. That will give you a bigger cylinder bore which will give you more options in heads and aid in unshrowding the valves. 600 Fwhp would be pretty easy. A set of Dart 225's with a valve job would have you at around 500rwhp no problem.

 

The guy asked a question everybody gave opinions,sales pitches and rallied against his choice.having had all the choices in various cars there re definately pluses and minus's.as far as adjusting them once the cam is properly broken inand everything settles down 10 to 12,000 miles should be no problem it also depends how radical the cam is and how hard it is on the valve train and how sturdy the valve train is roller rockers ,stud girdle ect Don,t compare specs from a roller cam to a flat tappet( solid) a roller by design will allow for a higher lift as the tip is rollerized and can follow the steep ramps so roller cams typically have a higher lift and shorter duration where the solid is the opposite keeping the valve open longer just not as high as a roller.the outlay for a solid cam and kit as oppose to a solid or hyd roller for a typical 600 hp the solid being about half the price the rollers are heavier and hyd flat tappet or roller is over reved and get into valve float thew lifters pump up and hold the valves open and the rish of ka boom is real.What is important with solid cams is breakin and use a truck oil (shell rotella) as they have antiscuff additives after breakin good practice to check valves and note any that need adjustment then 100 mile then 500 mile once evereything settles down you're good for an extended period before next adj.if funds are an issue you can get some pretty impressive HP numbers from a solid, rollers are (CAM only)are about triple the price of a solid at the same hp level .To build a motor with a target HP in mind for typical hot street car solids are a good choice,building a max HP engine then you need a rioller as the mechanical advantages really shine when the lift and duration go skyward but for a 500 to 600 hp street engine flat tappet cams are still a good choice.P.S T he sound of a solid liftermotor is awesome

 

Thank you very much K Ripper for you input. thats what i was originally looking to hear about

and *****, i will consider the 6.0 block

 

Just figured I would throw that out there for ya to think about.

Solid rollers are deff. doable but at the hp level you want there's really no need in it. I'm doing a solid roller deal now, but it's .830 lift.

 

Just one thing I'de like to add,had a friend wanted to build a G body GM car he got a 79 olds cutlass,proceeded to put all the rite stuff in turbo 400,gran nat. rear /3:42 gears 406 small block10.2 C.R.now what cam to put in ?a call to comp cam and based on our combo she was (surprise) 3700 lbs a 497/510 lift and 236 /240 @.50 (110 or 112 c/line not sure of c/l) solid cam now this was a street car w air cond.why solids? answer the cam at the recommended lash was right for our combo but he knew he would eventually like to go faster so a diet , 4:10 gear 700 R would come in the future (lower first gear and overdrive) with the changes the cam would no longer be ideal the beauty of a solid cam you alter the lash and the engine sees a bigger cam ,so our 3700/3:42 gear cam with lash @ .028 .030 readjusted to .018 ,.020 is now the ideal cam for our 3200 lb /4:10 gear.with a solid you can experiment with the lash if you tighten up the lash .002 to.004 and the car picks up your cam is prob too small likewise lossen and it picks up cam is too big one word of caution don't go more than .004 without checking w/cam manufacturer and always build your motors with plenty of piston to valve clearance as it allows you to play with the cam......a cam is not a magic stick inside an engine that makes you go fast just part of the combo don't be misled by the numbers game they recommend a .550 cam and you decide you would like to go just a little faster so you get a .600 cam and your car sounds tuff but is not as fast as your buddy with the .550 cam it's the combination of complementing parts good luck with your build