Active Handling
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Active Handling
I have a 01 C5 with active handling issues. Standard deal, kicks off the cruise, Active Handling displays and you can feel the brakes shutter. Checked the grounds up front, no such luck. Checked for codes, no such luck. Apparently unless it displays Service Active Handling, it will not show any codes.
Where do I go from here???
Where do I go from here???
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 27
From: Magnolia Greens NC
DTC C1287
Circuit Description
The vehicle stability enhancement system (VSES) is activated by the electronic brake control mdoule (EBCM) calculating the desired yaw rate and comparing it to the actual yaw rate input. The desired yaw rate is calculated from measured steering wheel position, vehicle speed, and lateral acceleration. The difference between the desired yaw rate and actual yaw rate is the yaw rate error, which is a measurement of oversteer or understeer. If the yaw rate error becomes too large, the EBCM will attempt to correct the vehicle's yaw motion by applying differential braking to the left or right front wheel.
The amount of differential braking applied to the left or right front wheel is based on both the yaw rate error and side slip rate error. The side slip rate error is a function of the lateral acceleration minus the product of the yaw rate and vehicle speed. The yaw rate error and side slip rate error are combined to produce the total delta velocity error. When the delta velocity error becomes too large and the VSES system activates, the drivers steering inputs combined with the differential braking will attempt to bring the delta velocity error toward zero.
The VSES activations generally occur during aggressive driving, in the turns or bumpy roads without much use of the accelerator pedal. When braking during VSES activation, the brake pedal will feel different than the ABS pedal pulsation. The brake pedal pulsates at a higher frequency during VSES activation.
Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
C1287
One of the following conditions exists:
The steering wheel position sensor is synchronized and the steer rate (speed that the steering wheel appears to be turning) is greater than 1100 degrees/second.
The steer rate is less than 80 degrees/second and the difference in the phase angle between Phase A and Phase B is greater than 20 degrees.
The 2 steering sensor signals (Phase A and Phase B) do not agree for 1 second. Under this condition, this DTC will set along with DTC C1281.
First thing to do is loosen (but don't remove) the bolt that connects the upper steering shaft with the steering column. I found it was a lot easier to get at the bolt by disconnecting the rubber hose going to the AIR tube on the exhaust headers.
the upper steering shaft with the blue "Notice" sticker. the upper joint with the bolt that will be loosened. It's just below the right most ignition coil.
he wheel is turned straight ahead. In this position the bolt head is at an angle you can't get at. Turn the wheel about 90 degrees to the left (IIRC) and you'll have the bolt head pointing up. Like this I was able to use a couple of extensions together to get a socket on there and be able to swing the ratchet.
Make sure you just loosen the bolt. You want to have the wheel pointing straight ahead when you install the sensor. Once you get it loose, turn the steering wheel to straight ahead and then remove the bolt by hand. This is where removing the AIR tube hose really helps, but it's still kind of a pain.
Now with the steering shaft disconnected from the steering column you can unbolt the steering column. There are four bolt that hold it in place. To get at the upper ones you need to remove the knee bolster. With that out, you can see the upper two nuts.
You can also see the sensor . It is behind the green ring. On its left you can see the connector for it. Remove the connector and all for bolts. There are also some ties that secure the wiring harnesses to the steering column. Undo the ties to create some slack in the wiring. You can now pull the steering column away from the firewall and fully disengage it from the steering shaft.
In theory, at this point you should be able to slide the steering sensor off the end of the column. Mine was really stuck on there so I ended up pulling the column out of the car to get a better grip on it.
If you're removing the column that means you have to disconnect the air bag. The GM service manuals state that the air bag holds about 15 seconds worth of charge so that the air bags can deploy even if the battery is disconnected. To avoid possibly having the air bag deploy you must disconnect the battery and then pull the fuse for the air bags.
Once you're certain the air bags have no power and are fully discharged, disconnect all the wiring connectors on the steering column. automotive electrical connectors, unplugging... These have a little locking piece you've got to push out with a small flat head screw driver before you can pull them a part. Once they are all undone you are now free to pull the whole column out.
Slide the sensor off and put on the new one. The new one has a black pin in it to keep it from moving out of the centered position. Don't remove that pin until the sensor is on the shaft, otherwise it won't give the right voltage on center.
With the new sensor on slide the steering shaft back through the firewall. This is a little tricky because there is a rubber grommet and a seal the column goes through. If your not careful you can push the grommet out of the firewall. It's a bit of a pain to shove it back in. I recommend having a second set of hands hold the grommet in place from the engine compartment side.
Then bolt the column in the car and plug in all the connectors. Put the upper steering shaft bolt back in by hand. Turn the wheel so you can access the bolt with a socket and tighten it. that's it.
Circuit Description
The vehicle stability enhancement system (VSES) is activated by the electronic brake control mdoule (EBCM) calculating the desired yaw rate and comparing it to the actual yaw rate input. The desired yaw rate is calculated from measured steering wheel position, vehicle speed, and lateral acceleration. The difference between the desired yaw rate and actual yaw rate is the yaw rate error, which is a measurement of oversteer or understeer. If the yaw rate error becomes too large, the EBCM will attempt to correct the vehicle's yaw motion by applying differential braking to the left or right front wheel.
The amount of differential braking applied to the left or right front wheel is based on both the yaw rate error and side slip rate error. The side slip rate error is a function of the lateral acceleration minus the product of the yaw rate and vehicle speed. The yaw rate error and side slip rate error are combined to produce the total delta velocity error. When the delta velocity error becomes too large and the VSES system activates, the drivers steering inputs combined with the differential braking will attempt to bring the delta velocity error toward zero.
The VSES activations generally occur during aggressive driving, in the turns or bumpy roads without much use of the accelerator pedal. When braking during VSES activation, the brake pedal will feel different than the ABS pedal pulsation. The brake pedal pulsates at a higher frequency during VSES activation.
Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
C1287
One of the following conditions exists:
The steering wheel position sensor is synchronized and the steer rate (speed that the steering wheel appears to be turning) is greater than 1100 degrees/second.
The steer rate is less than 80 degrees/second and the difference in the phase angle between Phase A and Phase B is greater than 20 degrees.
The 2 steering sensor signals (Phase A and Phase B) do not agree for 1 second. Under this condition, this DTC will set along with DTC C1281.
First thing to do is loosen (but don't remove) the bolt that connects the upper steering shaft with the steering column. I found it was a lot easier to get at the bolt by disconnecting the rubber hose going to the AIR tube on the exhaust headers.
the upper steering shaft with the blue "Notice" sticker. the upper joint with the bolt that will be loosened. It's just below the right most ignition coil.
he wheel is turned straight ahead. In this position the bolt head is at an angle you can't get at. Turn the wheel about 90 degrees to the left (IIRC) and you'll have the bolt head pointing up. Like this I was able to use a couple of extensions together to get a socket on there and be able to swing the ratchet.
Make sure you just loosen the bolt. You want to have the wheel pointing straight ahead when you install the sensor. Once you get it loose, turn the steering wheel to straight ahead and then remove the bolt by hand. This is where removing the AIR tube hose really helps, but it's still kind of a pain.
Now with the steering shaft disconnected from the steering column you can unbolt the steering column. There are four bolt that hold it in place. To get at the upper ones you need to remove the knee bolster. With that out, you can see the upper two nuts.
You can also see the sensor . It is behind the green ring. On its left you can see the connector for it. Remove the connector and all for bolts. There are also some ties that secure the wiring harnesses to the steering column. Undo the ties to create some slack in the wiring. You can now pull the steering column away from the firewall and fully disengage it from the steering shaft.
In theory, at this point you should be able to slide the steering sensor off the end of the column. Mine was really stuck on there so I ended up pulling the column out of the car to get a better grip on it.
If you're removing the column that means you have to disconnect the air bag. The GM service manuals state that the air bag holds about 15 seconds worth of charge so that the air bags can deploy even if the battery is disconnected. To avoid possibly having the air bag deploy you must disconnect the battery and then pull the fuse for the air bags.
Once you're certain the air bags have no power and are fully discharged, disconnect all the wiring connectors on the steering column. automotive electrical connectors, unplugging... These have a little locking piece you've got to push out with a small flat head screw driver before you can pull them a part. Once they are all undone you are now free to pull the whole column out.
Slide the sensor off and put on the new one. The new one has a black pin in it to keep it from moving out of the centered position. Don't remove that pin until the sensor is on the shaft, otherwise it won't give the right voltage on center.
With the new sensor on slide the steering shaft back through the firewall. This is a little tricky because there is a rubber grommet and a seal the column goes through. If your not careful you can push the grommet out of the firewall. It's a bit of a pain to shove it back in. I recommend having a second set of hands hold the grommet in place from the engine compartment side.
Then bolt the column in the car and plug in all the connectors. Put the upper steering shaft bolt back in by hand. Turn the wheel so you can access the bolt with a socket and tighten it. that's it.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
From: LaGrange Ga
DTC C1287
Circuit Description
The vehicle stability enhancement system (VSES) is activated by the electronic brake control mdoule (EBCM) calculating the desired yaw rate and comparing it to the actual yaw rate input. The desired yaw rate is calculated from measured steering wheel position, vehicle speed, and lateral acceleration. The difference between the desired yaw rate and actual yaw rate is the yaw rate error, which is a measurement of oversteer or understeer. If the yaw rate error becomes too large, the EBCM will attempt to correct the vehicle's yaw motion by applying differential braking to the left or right front wheel.
The amount of differential braking applied to the left or right front wheel is based on both the yaw rate error and side slip rate error. The side slip rate error is a function of the lateral acceleration minus the product of the yaw rate and vehicle speed. The yaw rate error and side slip rate error are combined to produce the total delta velocity error. When the delta velocity error becomes too large and the VSES system activates, the drivers steering inputs combined with the differential braking will attempt to bring the delta velocity error toward zero.
The VSES activations generally occur during aggressive driving, in the turns or bumpy roads without much use of the accelerator pedal. When braking during VSES activation, the brake pedal will feel different than the ABS pedal pulsation. The brake pedal pulsates at a higher frequency during VSES activation.
Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
C1287
One of the following conditions exists:
The steering wheel position sensor is synchronized and the steer rate (speed that the steering wheel appears to be turning) is greater than 1100 degrees/second.
The steer rate is less than 80 degrees/second and the difference in the phase angle between Phase A and Phase B is greater than 20 degrees.
The 2 steering sensor signals (Phase A and Phase B) do not agree for 1 second. Under this condition, this DTC will set along with DTC C1281.
First thing to do is loosen (but don't remove) the bolt that connects the upper steering shaft with the steering column. I found it was a lot easier to get at the bolt by disconnecting the rubber hose going to the AIR tube on the exhaust headers.
the upper steering shaft with the blue "Notice" sticker. the upper joint with the bolt that will be loosened. It's just below the right most ignition coil.
he wheel is turned straight ahead. In this position the bolt head is at an angle you can't get at. Turn the wheel about 90 degrees to the left (IIRC) and you'll have the bolt head pointing up. Like this I was able to use a couple of extensions together to get a socket on there and be able to swing the ratchet.
Make sure you just loosen the bolt. You want to have the wheel pointing straight ahead when you install the sensor. Once you get it loose, turn the steering wheel to straight ahead and then remove the bolt by hand. This is where removing the AIR tube hose really helps, but it's still kind of a pain.
Now with the steering shaft disconnected from the steering column you can unbolt the steering column. There are four bolt that hold it in place. To get at the upper ones you need to remove the knee bolster. With that out, you can see the upper two nuts.
You can also see the sensor . It is behind the green ring. On its left you can see the connector for it. Remove the connector and all for bolts. There are also some ties that secure the wiring harnesses to the steering column. Undo the ties to create some slack in the wiring. You can now pull the steering column away from the firewall and fully disengage it from the steering shaft.
In theory, at this point you should be able to slide the steering sensor off the end of the column. Mine was really stuck on there so I ended up pulling the column out of the car to get a better grip on it.
If you're removing the column that means you have to disconnect the air bag. The GM service manuals state that the air bag holds about 15 seconds worth of charge so that the air bags can deploy even if the battery is disconnected. To avoid possibly having the air bag deploy you must disconnect the battery and then pull the fuse for the air bags.
Once you're certain the air bags have no power and are fully discharged, disconnect all the wiring connectors on the steering column. automotive electrical connectors, unplugging... These have a little locking piece you've got to push out with a small flat head screw driver before you can pull them a part. Once they are all undone you are now free to pull the whole column out.
Slide the sensor off and put on the new one. The new one has a black pin in it to keep it from moving out of the centered position. Don't remove that pin until the sensor is on the shaft, otherwise it won't give the right voltage on center.
With the new sensor on slide the steering shaft back through the firewall. This is a little tricky because there is a rubber grommet and a seal the column goes through. If your not careful you can push the grommet out of the firewall. It's a bit of a pain to shove it back in. I recommend having a second set of hands hold the grommet in place from the engine compartment side.
Then bolt the column in the car and plug in all the connectors. Put the upper steering shaft bolt back in by hand. Turn the wheel so you can access the bolt with a socket and tighten it. that's it.
Circuit Description
The vehicle stability enhancement system (VSES) is activated by the electronic brake control mdoule (EBCM) calculating the desired yaw rate and comparing it to the actual yaw rate input. The desired yaw rate is calculated from measured steering wheel position, vehicle speed, and lateral acceleration. The difference between the desired yaw rate and actual yaw rate is the yaw rate error, which is a measurement of oversteer or understeer. If the yaw rate error becomes too large, the EBCM will attempt to correct the vehicle's yaw motion by applying differential braking to the left or right front wheel.
The amount of differential braking applied to the left or right front wheel is based on both the yaw rate error and side slip rate error. The side slip rate error is a function of the lateral acceleration minus the product of the yaw rate and vehicle speed. The yaw rate error and side slip rate error are combined to produce the total delta velocity error. When the delta velocity error becomes too large and the VSES system activates, the drivers steering inputs combined with the differential braking will attempt to bring the delta velocity error toward zero.
The VSES activations generally occur during aggressive driving, in the turns or bumpy roads without much use of the accelerator pedal. When braking during VSES activation, the brake pedal will feel different than the ABS pedal pulsation. The brake pedal pulsates at a higher frequency during VSES activation.
Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition is ON.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
C1287
One of the following conditions exists:
The steering wheel position sensor is synchronized and the steer rate (speed that the steering wheel appears to be turning) is greater than 1100 degrees/second.
The steer rate is less than 80 degrees/second and the difference in the phase angle between Phase A and Phase B is greater than 20 degrees.
The 2 steering sensor signals (Phase A and Phase B) do not agree for 1 second. Under this condition, this DTC will set along with DTC C1281.
First thing to do is loosen (but don't remove) the bolt that connects the upper steering shaft with the steering column. I found it was a lot easier to get at the bolt by disconnecting the rubber hose going to the AIR tube on the exhaust headers.
the upper steering shaft with the blue "Notice" sticker. the upper joint with the bolt that will be loosened. It's just below the right most ignition coil.
he wheel is turned straight ahead. In this position the bolt head is at an angle you can't get at. Turn the wheel about 90 degrees to the left (IIRC) and you'll have the bolt head pointing up. Like this I was able to use a couple of extensions together to get a socket on there and be able to swing the ratchet.
Make sure you just loosen the bolt. You want to have the wheel pointing straight ahead when you install the sensor. Once you get it loose, turn the steering wheel to straight ahead and then remove the bolt by hand. This is where removing the AIR tube hose really helps, but it's still kind of a pain.
Now with the steering shaft disconnected from the steering column you can unbolt the steering column. There are four bolt that hold it in place. To get at the upper ones you need to remove the knee bolster. With that out, you can see the upper two nuts.
You can also see the sensor . It is behind the green ring. On its left you can see the connector for it. Remove the connector and all for bolts. There are also some ties that secure the wiring harnesses to the steering column. Undo the ties to create some slack in the wiring. You can now pull the steering column away from the firewall and fully disengage it from the steering shaft.
In theory, at this point you should be able to slide the steering sensor off the end of the column. Mine was really stuck on there so I ended up pulling the column out of the car to get a better grip on it.
If you're removing the column that means you have to disconnect the air bag. The GM service manuals state that the air bag holds about 15 seconds worth of charge so that the air bags can deploy even if the battery is disconnected. To avoid possibly having the air bag deploy you must disconnect the battery and then pull the fuse for the air bags.
Once you're certain the air bags have no power and are fully discharged, disconnect all the wiring connectors on the steering column. automotive electrical connectors, unplugging... These have a little locking piece you've got to push out with a small flat head screw driver before you can pull them a part. Once they are all undone you are now free to pull the whole column out.
Slide the sensor off and put on the new one. The new one has a black pin in it to keep it from moving out of the centered position. Don't remove that pin until the sensor is on the shaft, otherwise it won't give the right voltage on center.
With the new sensor on slide the steering shaft back through the firewall. This is a little tricky because there is a rubber grommet and a seal the column goes through. If your not careful you can push the grommet out of the firewall. It's a bit of a pain to shove it back in. I recommend having a second set of hands hold the grommet in place from the engine compartment side.
Then bolt the column in the car and plug in all the connectors. Put the upper steering shaft bolt back in by hand. Turn the wheel so you can access the bolt with a socket and tighten it. that's it.
Thanks again!
