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Security light problem

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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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Default Security light problem

I posted this in the C5 General section. My 99 FRC has occasionally had the security light come on and stay on while driving. Also, and I don't know if it is related, the car will not start even though the lights and all electrical equipment seems to be working. Are these two problems related? Any suggestions on remedies?
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rkhegler
I posted this in the C5 General section. My 99 FRC has occasionally had the security light come on and stay on while driving. Also, and I don't know if it is related, the car will not start even though the lights and all electrical equipment seems to be working. Are these two problems related? Any suggestions on remedies?
Yes, most likely related. Post your codes:

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

Also, there are at least two other threads with similar symptoms in the tech section right now.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Yes, most likely related. Post your codes:

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

Also, there are at least two other threads with similar symptoms in the tech section right now.
Thank you!
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Yes, most likely related. Post your codes:

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

Also, there are at least two other threads with similar symptoms in the tech section right now.
I read the other threads. I am pretty much convinced that it is an ignition switch problem. I will run the codes in the morning. Thanks again for your help.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Yes, most likely related. Post your codes:

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

Also, there are at least two other threads with similar symptoms in the tech section right now.
Here are the codes. All designated with an "H"

10-PCM (Power Train Control Module)
DTC P1631 Theft Deterrent Start Enable Signal Not Correct

60 BCM (Body Control Module)
DTC B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive B

DTC B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit

BO-RFA (Remote Function Actuation)
DTC U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC

DTC U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM

DTC U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM

Last edited by rkhegler; Sep 13, 2010 at 01:07 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rkhegler
Here are the codes. All designated with an "H"

DTC P1631 Theft Deterrent Start Enable Signal Not Correct

DTC B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive B

DTC B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit

DTC U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC

DTC U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM

DTC U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM

Yep.....that will do it. If you have another key, you can try that first, but you are probably looking at a new lock cylinder. Based on the communications codes, I think an inspection of the ignition switch contacts are in order as well.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Yep.....that will do it. If you have another key, you can try that first, but you are probably looking at a new lock cylinder. Based on the communications codes, I think an inspection of the ignition switch contacts are in order as well.
So, what do you estimate this will cost at a shop?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 12:30 PM
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I took both of my keys to the Chevy dealer and they tested the code on the key to see if they were reading correctly. They were! The electrical service guy in the shop told me to try the key in the ignition and put it in the "run" position. He then said to try and remove the key. If the key comes out, I would need a new cylinder lock. If not, I would probably have a problem with the ignition switch. The technician also told me that the key I was using looked a bit worn on the chip. He recommended trying a new key or using my spare. I will start using the spare for a while to see if that helps.

I tried both keys and they did not come out of the cylinder. So, I think my next step is to take out the ignition switch and take a look at the contacts. From what I have read, I am betting the contacts need a good cleaning or the switch itself needs to be replaced.

Last edited by rkhegler; Sep 14, 2010 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rkhegler
I took both of my keys to the Chevy dealer and they tested the code on the key to see if they were reading correctly. They were! The electrical service guy in the shop told me to try the key in the ignition and put it in the "run" position. He then said to try and remove the key. If the key comes out, I would need a new cylinder lock. If not, I would probably have a problem with the ignition switch. The technician also tole me that the key I was using looked a bit worn on the chip. He recommended trying a new key or using my spare. I will start using the spare for a while to see if that helps.

I tried both keys and they did not come out of the cylinder. So, I think my next step is to take out the ignition switch and take a look at the contacts. From what I have read, I am betting the contacts need a good cleaning or the switch itself needs to be replaced.
The threads discussing cleaning the contacts are electrical contacts, not for reading resistance......which is what the Pass key detection is reading.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
The threads discussing cleaning the contacts are electrical contacts, not for reading resistance......which is what the Pass key detection is reading.
I understand that. However, rather than just assuming the solution to the problem, one should start small and work your way to the problem. I simply did what the tech told me to do.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rkhegler
I understand that. However, rather than just assuming the solution to the problem, one should start small and work your way to the problem.
I see. I'm not very good at troubleshooting these electrical gremblins......I'm sure more knowledgeable members will offer advice.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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^^^ lol!!!
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rkhegler
I understand that. However, rather than just assuming the solution to the problem, one should start small and work your way to the problem. I simply did what the tech told me to do.
LOL. bro, clean your ignition contacts.

did you check the codes like he asked? that would help us to not have to ASSUME.

forget the stupid "tech"...it's the same guy that will tell you that you have to swap your entire torque tube assembly when the bushings/bearings are a couple hundred bucks
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
did you check the codes like he asked? that would help us to not have to ASSUME.
.....I have to ASSUME you did not read post #5.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
.....I have to ASSUME you did not read post #5.
LOL, i read the whole thread but I just missed that entire post or read through too quickly more than likely.

now that that's clear...

to the op: what do you mean "assume"?

your codes are there and they give you more than an assumption


edit: if your key DOES NOT come out of the ignition..it DOES NOT mean that your lock cylinder is okay. That B 2721 code is telling you the problem...in order to change the lock cylinder you have to remove the ignition switch...once the switch is out it's easy to clean the contacts and free.
It shouldn't cost more than 30-40 bucks to have your new lock cylinder keyed if decide to change out the lock cylinder.

A shop will probably charge you 400ish to do the job

Last edited by 00Corvette; Sep 15, 2010 at 05:12 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
LOL, i read the whole thread but I just missed that entire post or read through too quickly more than likely.

now that that's clear...

to the op: what do you mean "assume"?

your codes are there and they give you more than an assumption


edit: if your key DOES NOT come out of the ignition..it DOES NOT mean that your lock cylinder is okay. That B 2721 code is telling you the problem...in order to change the lock cylinder you have to remove the ignition switch...once the switch is out it's easy to clean the contacts and free.
It shouldn't cost more than 30-40 bucks to have your new lock cylinder keyed if decide to change out the lock cylinder.

A shop will probably charge you 400ish to do the job
I did not assume anything. Post #5 says it all. Please re-read it carefully.
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