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It seems very hard to get the car in reverse. And sometimes when i think it is in reverse i start to release the clutch it makes this weird butt noise :confused: I hope it is nothing serious :chevy u guys have this prob 2???
I've always had the problem you describe. I had the reverse syncronizer replaced once. Even after I had the syncronizer replaced the problem remained. I've had the dealer check it out a couple of times and they say it is "normal". The grinding noise sucks so, I've been changing my driving habbits. I always put it in reverse when I park so I don't have to shift it. Also, I put it into 1st, ease foward then put it in reverse to make it shift easier. Sometimes nothing helps, I shift to reverse but, I can't tell if its engaged until I ease out on the clutch and it either rolls or grinds. Let me know if you find a better solution. :cheers:
I have never experienced this however, I have read in this forum about some others who have had to adjust or tighten their shift linkage. The shifter mechanism is clamped to a long rod that runs back to the transmission. The clamps are held in place by torx bolts. One guy said his were loose! After he tighten them he didn't have any more shifter problems.
I had the same but the problem became worse and worse. Finaly I could not get into any gear. It turned out to be the clutch pressure plate coming loose.
It seems very hard to get the car in reverse. And sometimes when i think it is in reverse i start to release the clutch it makes this weird butt noise :confused: I hope it is nothing serious :chevy u guys have this prob 2???
Just a thought, but are you aware the reverse lock-out works at anything above a very slow roll? It also takes a bit of time to release after you have been moving forward. If you don't already do so, try coming to a complete stop for a second or two before you shift into reverse. If this doesn't help, you may have one of the other problems members have mentioned.
It is normal in these BW mexican made trannies (thanks GM, we love you too).
The problem is with weakened pressure in the master/slave cylinders due to a cloged passage.
The solution:
Well, there are a few:
The most radical - replace your master with an after-market one.
Other solution is flush the clutch fluds and replace them with redline.
Mine got to a point where I couldn't shift in R NO MATTER what I would do.
The dealer replaced the fluids (at my cost) and it all started to work again.
Now I do preventive auctions - every two weeks I drain my clutch reservouar and put fresh fluid - worked for the last year and a half.
Just a thought, but are you aware the reverse lock-out works at anything above a very slow roll? It also takes a bit of time to release after you have been moving forward. If you don't already do so, try coming to a complete stop for a second or two before you shift into reverse. If this doesn't help, you may have one of the other problems members have mentioned.
This is the only problem I have with reverse too - I have to make sure that the car is completely stationary before applying any sideways force to get into reverse. If I don't then I find that I have selected 5th and feel like a complete plonker !