I may have gone too long to try and solve these problems but I’m having the TCS/ABS wackiness going again. This past Sunday I went out for a short twisty run with local club. I turned off Active Handling for a small bit of it. No problems were raised at that time. I did notice that the TCS warming up message but that took just a few seconds and all was well. And then today I start with the TCS/ABS warnings.

In the past I have had these problems, but a quick tug on the driver side door cables (accordion tube) would always bring things back to normal. During these wacky sessions I would loose DS door panel control, door panel lights, and get the TCS/ABS warnings but all would clear. I would check codes and a lot of them were communications codes for radio, ldcm, hvac, ipc, reduce engine power, and more. They would all be H codes and would clear and down the road I go. I also noticed that the lights dim sometimes as I roll the DS window up. I have still written that off to door wiring woes.

So today I have the dreaded C1214 H and C, and of course it won’t clear. I get a host of other codes, but all will be H status and clear. I’m sure I have more than one problem here now and would like to get some ideas to solve. Today has been the only time that the C1214 has stayed current. I’ll list all my last set of codes as I have been clearing them all day. As far as the TCS/ABS, I noticed today that a sound is being made when I start up the car. In the past I had asked about this sound (on the forum) and someone said that it is normal; it’s a pump running for the ABS.

So a list of today’s codes:

10 PCM
P1626 H
28 TCS
U1301 H
C1214 H C
40 BCM
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
58 SDM
U1301 H
U1096 H
A6 SCM
U1300 H
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1016 H
60 IPC
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1064 H
U1040 H
U1176 H
U1088 H
U1160 H
99 HVAC
U1064 H
U1096 H
U1160 H
U1255 H
80 Radio
U1096 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
A1 RDCM
U1096 H
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1064 H
A6 SCM
U1300 H
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1064 H
B0 RFA
U1000 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1096 H
U1016 H

Many seem to be the loss of communications messages and have happened many times in the past. The old tug seemed to fix/clear and get control back that I mentioned before. Some may be new, as I can not remember all codes I’ve had in the past. So does anyone have any good ideas about the source of my woes? Can it be that the door wiring is the source for everything but the dreaded C1214. I will add that last night I did help a buddy and give them a jump off my battery. I saw no problems until today and I must have started and stopped my car 5 times sense I jump his car. No problems at all until this afternoon. Thanks for any and all input. The 1300 series codes are bothering me but they seem to not be that repeated.

 

The accordion tube would be the best place to start. You can search “accordion” and that should bring up Bill’s pics. The C1214 is another matter.

 

First start with the accordian and see if you can find a problem there. With all of those codes you more than likely have an electrical problem. If the voltage is pulled low enough that could trigger C1214. Otherwise, C1214 may be solved by repairing/replacing the EBCM or it may be more involved and require repair/replacement of EBCM plus replacement of the BPMV. If the BPMV motor is shorted to the case that would cause the EBCM to go bad so just repairing the relay in the EBCM and not replacing the BPMV isn't a complete fix and the problem will come back.

Bill

 

Yep, I have played with this a lot over the summer. Back in the spring I got out the liquid tape and started peeling back the factory tape expecting to see somethig obvious. I did not. So I covered a few areas that seemed like they may be good bets. No real improvement. So I have lived with it. I have not gotten after the body side of this wiring, partly because it's dificult for me to get in there for any length of time. Plus summer has brought on other projects and just taking fun time too.

My concern is the U1300 and U1301 series codes as I do not remember seeing this in the past. This "Class 2 Circuit shorted to GND and to Battery. Any ideas on the most likely cause of these? What is the class 2 circuit? what do it mean?

Forgive me for posting all the codes, but many have always requested folks to post all codes. Thanks for taking the time to ring in. I'm hoping Bill might give some more tips on to where to look, or the meaning of some errors here. I have read over most every thread Bill has posted and responded to posts others have had asking the same questions.

It seems to me I remember Bill talking about the comm/bus errors causing the computer to just turn things off (TCS/ABS) because of the loss of comms to be safe.

On the c1214 I wonder if giving the assembly a good rap might help. I may have to wait for the weekend to chase this down, so I'll be re-reading the posts until then. Any other input, much appreciated.

 

The loss of communication codes will someimes trigger many of the other codes you've listed----Almost sounds like an ignition switch issue----Could be from a bad ground somewhere---check the voltage of your charged battery with the engine off--- should be above 12.0---then start it up and check it again--see if the alternator is charging--should be around 13.0-14.4 Use a multi-meter and not the gauge in the car
The TCS/ABS codes could be a byproduct of any of the above--but I suspect not---
Do you have stock tire sizes ? stock rear dif ?--and 90% of the time TCS/ABS codes are a result of a bad wheel speed sensor ---dirty connection-- or faulty pigtail connection---Often triggered from driving on a rough road or going over RR tracks or aggressive driving---

 

Thanks for jumping in with some clues. I have been trying to track down the gremlin in the door wiring for some time. I feel as if most of the problem is there. But have not turned up what I was hoping to see. Like a fray in the wiring or corrosion in the connectors. The C1214 code is now constant/current all day. It's never done that before. I'll star checking on the weekend if it lasts that long. It's a DD so I have little time to check after work these days.

Oh, everything stock, tire size normal, auto 3:15 gears. Driven playful but not hard. Most of the time I run the Active handling, but turn it off every now and then.

 

my post #69 in the C5 Tech Stickys ...under:

Sticky: The Improved***** Ultimate DIY Thread ... *******

 

Trussme - thanks for the link. I knew I had seen this before and had read through it many months ago.