Wheel speed sensor code: how to run ground wire?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
Wheel speed sensor code: how to run ground wire?
Hi,
I've been running around for a while now w/o ABS because I am getting a right front wheel speed sensor code. I think this might be an electrical grounding issue because the problem showed up 2 days after I had stainless steel brake lines installed. At first the code would set every time I hit a bump in the road. Then it got worse so that it would come on almost immediately with a short amount of driving (as in feet). Yes it could be a bad connector--but I don't believe in coincidences.
So--I ran a wire from the stainless line to the frame. This hasn't helped. I just taped it on (very well though) since I was just trying to see if it helped.
Searching I saw someone mention that they ran a wire from the caliper to the the chassis. I'd like to hear more about that installation. Where to attach the wire to the caliper & chassis and do I have to solder it? I don't like adding heat to the caliper because of the brake fluid.
Thanks,
Andy
I've been running around for a while now w/o ABS because I am getting a right front wheel speed sensor code. I think this might be an electrical grounding issue because the problem showed up 2 days after I had stainless steel brake lines installed. At first the code would set every time I hit a bump in the road. Then it got worse so that it would come on almost immediately with a short amount of driving (as in feet). Yes it could be a bad connector--but I don't believe in coincidences.
So--I ran a wire from the stainless line to the frame. This hasn't helped. I just taped it on (very well though) since I was just trying to see if it helped.
Searching I saw someone mention that they ran a wire from the caliper to the the chassis. I'd like to hear more about that installation. Where to attach the wire to the caliper & chassis and do I have to solder it? I don't like adding heat to the caliper because of the brake fluid.
Thanks,
Andy
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 27
From: Magnolia Greens NC
check to see if a copper washer is missing (used to provide proper grounding where the stainless steel brake line & Bolt are attached...
another check:the wheel speed sensor is either sending a bad signal or no signal. Start by checking the connections. The wheel speed sensor is integrated into the wheel bearing/hub assembly. The wire coming out of the back is the connection for the wheel speed sensors. Verify that the connector is not broken, damaged, or corroded in any way. Pay particular attention to the female end.
The wire coming out of the wheel speed sensor connects to and 18" jumper harness, then to the main harness. It is very common for people to have a weak female pin in one of those connections.
another check:the wheel speed sensor is either sending a bad signal or no signal. Start by checking the connections. The wheel speed sensor is integrated into the wheel bearing/hub assembly. The wire coming out of the back is the connection for the wheel speed sensors. Verify that the connector is not broken, damaged, or corroded in any way. Pay particular attention to the female end.
The wire coming out of the wheel speed sensor connects to and 18" jumper harness, then to the main harness. It is very common for people to have a weak female pin in one of those connections.
Last edited by trussme; Sep 27, 2010 at 03:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
check to see if a copper washer is missing (used to provide proper grounding where the stainless steel brake line & Bolt are attached...
another check:the wheel speed sensor is either sending a bad signal or no signal. Start by checking the connections. The wheel speed sensor is integrated into the wheel bearing/hub assembly. The wire coming out of the back is the connection for the wheel speed sensors. Verify that the connector is not broken, damaged, or corroded in any way. Pay particular attention to the female end.
The wire coming out of the wheel speed sensor connects to and 18" jumper harness, then to the main harness. It is very common for people to have a weak female pin in one of those connections.
another check:the wheel speed sensor is either sending a bad signal or no signal. Start by checking the connections. The wheel speed sensor is integrated into the wheel bearing/hub assembly. The wire coming out of the back is the connection for the wheel speed sensors. Verify that the connector is not broken, damaged, or corroded in any way. Pay particular attention to the female end.
The wire coming out of the wheel speed sensor connects to and 18" jumper harness, then to the main harness. It is very common for people to have a weak female pin in one of those connections.
Ok--where should I see the copper washer? I believe at the end of the brake line where it meets the solid brake line?
I've read your other advice through searches and that will be the next thing. I wish I had an extra male connector halve to test the pin strength. But it seems really coincidental that all this started to happen 2 days after the stainless line install. The connectors just so happened to wear themselves out just when I added the lines even though all was fine for over 8 years prior.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,341
Likes: 1,123
From: Dyer, IN
Hi,
I've been running around for a while now w/o ABS because I am getting a right front wheel speed sensor code. I think this might be an electrical grounding issue because the problem showed up 2 days after I had stainless steel brake lines installed. At first the code would set every time I hit a bump in the road. Then it got worse so that it would come on almost immediately with a short amount of driving (as in feet). Yes it could be a bad connector--but I don't believe in coincidences.
So--I ran a wire from the stainless line to the frame. This hasn't helped. I just taped it on (very well though) since I was just trying to see if it helped.
Searching I saw someone mention that they ran a wire from the caliper to the the chassis. I'd like to hear more about that installation. Where to attach the wire to the caliper & chassis and do I have to solder it? I don't like adding heat to the caliper because of the brake fluid.
Thanks,
Andy
I've been running around for a while now w/o ABS because I am getting a right front wheel speed sensor code. I think this might be an electrical grounding issue because the problem showed up 2 days after I had stainless steel brake lines installed. At first the code would set every time I hit a bump in the road. Then it got worse so that it would come on almost immediately with a short amount of driving (as in feet). Yes it could be a bad connector--but I don't believe in coincidences.
So--I ran a wire from the stainless line to the frame. This hasn't helped. I just taped it on (very well though) since I was just trying to see if it helped.
Searching I saw someone mention that they ran a wire from the caliper to the the chassis. I'd like to hear more about that installation. Where to attach the wire to the caliper & chassis and do I have to solder it? I don't like adding heat to the caliper because of the brake fluid.
Thanks,
Andy
You need to perform a physical inspection of the harness to the suspect sensor, to include the wiring, connectors, contacts, and resistance measurement with a DMM. Also, I would evaluate the resistance of each wire, each wire referenced to ground, and physically shake the wiring, to see if the resistance value changes on the meter. Finally, you can also evaluate the output of the wheel sensor with a meter as well.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
The is no external ground necessary for the wheel speed sensor(s) to operate properly. There are two wires to each sensor, one signal, and one low reference(provided by the EBCM). Do not get distracted by some of the posts on this forum, as most are grasping at straws, due to a lack of their understanding of how the system operates.
You need to perform a physical inspection of the harness to the suspect sensor, to include the wiring, connectors, contacts, and resistance measurement with a DMM. Also, I would evaluate the resistance of each wire, each wire referenced to ground, and physically shake the wiring, to see if the resistance value changes on the meter. Finally, you can also evaluate the output of the wheel sensor with a meter as well.
You need to perform a physical inspection of the harness to the suspect sensor, to include the wiring, connectors, contacts, and resistance measurement with a DMM. Also, I would evaluate the resistance of each wire, each wire referenced to ground, and physically shake the wiring, to see if the resistance value changes on the meter. Finally, you can also evaluate the output of the wheel sensor with a meter as well.
I've read it's usually the female connectors that have worn out--have loose pin connections. Do you know which one is the usual culprit? I could just buy that connector w/wire and replace and see if that fixes it. But yes--I'll have to do another inspection. The first time I saw nothing obvious but I didn't take voltages/resistance values, etc etc.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,341
Likes: 1,123
From: Dyer, IN
I've read it's usually the female connectors that have worn out--have loose pin connections. Do you know which one is the usual culprit? I could just buy that connector w/wire and replace and see if that fixes it. But yes--I'll have to do another inspection. The first time I saw nothing obvious but I didn't take voltages/resistance values, etc etc.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573340784
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 27
From: Magnolia Greens NC
have you seen this post?
DTC C1226, service ABS/TCS, ?sensor malfunction? (Multi-page thread 1 2)
berryj
Yesterday 02:49 PM
by MR Turco Go to last post
30 1,773
you may want to read thru this post as it contains similar problems to yours...
...for example:
member said he had talked w/ a GM tech who was familiar w/ this problem from SS brake lines. Apparently, conductors/power lines poorly shielded leak electrical signals which interfere w/ the vettes sensors when these SS lines are in place. Cure was to go back to OEM lines.
berryj
Yesterday 02:49 PM
by MR Turco Go to last post
30 1,773
you may want to read thru this post as it contains similar problems to yours...
...for example:
member said he had talked w/ a GM tech who was familiar w/ this problem from SS brake lines. Apparently, conductors/power lines poorly shielded leak electrical signals which interfere w/ the vettes sensors when these SS lines are in place. Cure was to go back to OEM lines.
Last edited by trussme; Sep 29, 2010 at 06:45 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
FYI--thus far it appears this is fixed via a new wheel bearing assy. It seems the wires to the embedded wheel speed sensor were being tugged a bit because of the routing after I had brake cooling ducting professionally installed.
I will drive the car for a while but the code is gone now so I am pretty sure this was the cause. The wires ultimately completely separated.
Moral: Probably don't do the brake cooling ducting. Not worth it. Hoses bust too and need to be re-done. If you really want to do it, be sure to route the wires so that they have quite a bit of slack w/the steering wheel at full lock.
I will drive the car for a while but the code is gone now so I am pretty sure this was the cause. The wires ultimately completely separated.
Moral: Probably don't do the brake cooling ducting. Not worth it. Hoses bust too and need to be re-done. If you really want to do it, be sure to route the wires so that they have quite a bit of slack w/the steering wheel at full lock.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 14
From: Phoenixville, PA
The wheel speed sensor plug struck again. I installed a new hub and the ABS light came on.
To make sure the problem isn't with the wheel speed sensor, put the car in the air (wheels off in back), run a pair of wires to the wheel speed sensor plug (there are spots to put some bare wire), put the voltmeter on AC and go about 15-20mph - voltage reading should be .6-.7VAC and steady. I cut the ABS wires, about 20" after the plug and ran both leads to the voltmeter - the 5V from the car is not needed.
I bent the pins all the way down to the bottom of the plug - it will take a bit of effort to get the plugs together. Then resolder the ABS wires afterwards to make sure the above pin bending worked. Then order another plug from a car being parted out -- if anyone has another source, please post it!
To make sure the problem isn't with the wheel speed sensor, put the car in the air (wheels off in back), run a pair of wires to the wheel speed sensor plug (there are spots to put some bare wire), put the voltmeter on AC and go about 15-20mph - voltage reading should be .6-.7VAC and steady. I cut the ABS wires, about 20" after the plug and ran both leads to the voltmeter - the 5V from the car is not needed.
I bent the pins all the way down to the bottom of the plug - it will take a bit of effort to get the plugs together. Then resolder the ABS wires afterwards to make sure the above pin bending worked. Then order another plug from a car being parted out -- if anyone has another source, please post it!
