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How to replace a clutch??? 01 C5

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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 03:56 PM
  #1  
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Default How to replace a clutch??? 01 C5

Well, I wouldn't have a problem just tearing into it, but for those of you who have actually replaced the clutch yourselves could you offer some pointers?

Just curious if the transmission and rear end needs to be removed (looks like it does)

Are there any other parts aside from the obvious that should be replaced? i.e. I heard about a torque tube bearing.

What replacement clutch sets do you guys recommend?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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Do a search, there are a few tutorials with pics. You'll need to get the car HIGH off the ground and have a couple of hydraulic jacks on wheels available since most on the rear of the car has to come out with the trans/torquetube.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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Thanks, I will keep looking. I can never seem to find good threads. If anyone is kind enough to post links it will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance everyone
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by manley845
Thanks, I will keep looking. I can never seem to find good threads. If anyone is kind enough to post links it will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance everyone

There's always GOOGLE too:

www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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FYI, my guide (just posted above) is also in the huge sticky at the top of this forum too.

Dope
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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Sent my tranny out to RPM for a Level V when I put my Monster Stage 3 in. BTW, the Monster Stage 3 squeaks on the street on takeoff, but it holds. Consider sending the rearend to RPM to get rebuilt since its already out. Don't forget the pilot bearing, I did. Hope it lasts
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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Default Clutch Replacement

Originally Posted by dougbfresh
There's always GOOGLE too:

www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc
Cajundude is a good source of information.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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These aren't really a must but it would be really bad to redo the entire job because you didn't.

Pilot bearing = $13 from GM or other vendor.
Clutch Slave Cylinder = $130
Throwout bearing = $40 for the good one.
Remote Clutch Bleeder hose... I have the LAPD and it works good.

I have LT streets, CAI and tune so went with LS7 kit. Works fine but PITA to install since it requires the bellhousing to be loosened (a lot). Plus it is a lot heavier.

Replace tranny fluid and diff fluid while they are out. Best time to address the leaky butt issues on diff and tranny. Diff seals are $30 each side. Tranny can be sealed using "The Right Stuff" or other products.

You might need to replace the rubber couplers in the torque tube but that is only if (A BIG IF) they are cracked or showing signs of impending failure. $80 each for the german version.

Nice time to upgrade the shifter since it comes out.

Clutch master doesn't need to be replaced since it can be swapped at any time.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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Having just done this job myself, with my son-in-law's help, and a two post lift, I recommend you ask every mechanic you can find to give you a quote. If you can get somebody trustworthy to do it for less than $750, jump on it. I've done 3 H/C jobs, and several other major mods, and the clutch job was by far the worst. Of course, at the same time, I installed a Tick master, which added to the lack of fun. Also, if you have headers, it's more complicated. I really don't want to do it ever again.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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Be REAL careful with that pilot bearing when you're reinstalling the drivetrain-I wasn't,so I got to do the job twice in 3 weeks! (on jackstands, in the garage)
Installed a Kevlar/Composite bushing on the second go-round and 6,500 miles later,it's working great.
Kevlar is more forgiving of misalignment issues during reinstallation,and,if the end of the propshaft is kinda chewed up(like mine was,after grinding up the first pilot bearing),it tolerates that also.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Carcass
Be REAL careful with that pilot bearing when you're reinstalling the drivetrain-I wasn't,so I got to do the job twice in 3 weeks! (on jackstands, in the garage)
Installed a Kevlar/Composite bushing on the second go-round and 6,500 miles later,it's working great.
Kevlar is more forgiving of misalignment issues during reinstallation,and,if the end of the propshaft is kinda chewed up(like mine was,after grinding up the first pilot bearing),it tolerates that also.
QFT!! I went through a couple pilot bearings and an input shaft as well. I too ended up putting in a pilot bushing.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by manley845
Well, I wouldn't have a problem just tearing into it, but for those of you who have actually replaced the clutch yourselves could you offer some pointers?

Just curious if the transmission and rear end needs to be removed (looks like it does)

Are there any other parts aside from the obvious that should be replaced? i.e. I heard about a torque tube bearing.

What replacement clutch sets do you guys recommend?
Having the service manual on hand may be a good idea. There are some minor details in there like torque sequences, torque values and the balance procedure for the new fly-wheel that you may want to be aware of.
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