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My C5 w/ stroked LS3 sees mostly road miles, but stretches it's legs once in a while (2 - 5 wknds a year) at HPDEs.
Currently, I have to replace my 3.90 differential.
I don't relish the extra cost, but are there any knowledgeable people out there that recommend I also install a diff and/or tranny cooler? How about just one or the other?
Bigger Radiator, plus Oil cooler and accu-sump or dry sump for that LS3.
Thanks for the input! Fortunately, I already have all those.
The accusump has been a bit of a pain WRT dialing in the proper residual oil pressure in the bladder (i.e., no indicated system/engine oil pressure). As a result, I had a few instances of oil being blown out of the relief valve (and all over the inside of my fender) when operating pressures got too high in the sump. (It's either that or I had a bum relief valve.) What I bought to protect my then new engine, only caused me more headache.
All seems well now though. (Famous last words...I'll reserve final judgement when I go over a year with no oil issues. Ugh.)
Thanks for the input! Fortunately, I already have all those.
The accusump has been a bit of a pain WRT dialing in the proper residual oil pressure in the bladder (i.e., no indicated system/engine oil pressure). As a result, I had a few instances of oil being blown out of the relief valve (and all over the inside of my fender) when operating pressures got too high in the sump. (It's either that or I had a bum relief valve.) What I bought to protect my then new engine, only caused me more headache.
All seems well now though. (Famous last words...I'll reserve final judgement when I go over a year with no oil issues. Ugh.)
You have a bum relief valve.
then yes a trans and diff cooler are in order.
I run the GM T1 cooler set up. with manual switch. that way dont need to switch them on unless there is extream heat
I use the DRM coolers for the diff and trans and like AU N EGL I am able to turn the pumps off when they are not needed. It is also useful to leave the pumps running for a couple of minutes after the session when you hit the pits.
I would certainly install a trans cooler as many C5's have issues with high trans temps when tracked, I never had this problem but 2 friends did and would sometimes have to shorten sessions to cool down.
Good Luck.
If I had to do only one cooler it would be the diff cooler. The diffs get very hot because of the limited slip diff. Plus it is converting the power 90 degrees in direction.
But on the other hand transmissions cost about 3 times what a diff cost. So there is that.
We had found installing both is the best way to go
The pumps are a tick loud but with the helmet on, RPMs up, you can't hear them at all. It's like they aren't even there.
I also leave my pumps run for a couple minutes after I get into the pits. Speakng of, it's late and I'm filling my trans and diff on Sunday.
As I indicated in my OP, I don't relish the extra cost. (My wallet's not been happy of late...also recently needed to replace the starter.) But, I guess I'll look at it as insurance for some major driveline components.
Another way of saying it could be if I want to play (and regularly run HPDEs like a scalded beast), I have to pay.
Be safe!
Last edited by kedvesh; Oct 3, 2010 at 05:34 PM.
Reason: added text
Hey Randy, What's the max temp of the diff oil under race conditions with the cooler running (and with no cooler) ?
TIA Brian.
Back when we were testing the differences we say about a 50-60 degree change. At blackhawk we got it up to 315 without and 270 with cooler it was hot as hell there that day. At places like road america it was 300 and 230ish.
They work damn well and it's really depends on the driver and track.
Thanks, very helpful.
The reason I ask is I'm installing a 300 deg temp diff gauge in my '02 Z and wanted to know if it read high enough !
My old F Body would peg the 300 gauge everytime out on track.
FYI to OP. DRM's coolers are an easy install if you can operate basic hand tools. Makes for a nice winter project.
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