Hello to all..
After i hit a big bump, the traction control in the dash indicated that it had been working. A long beep was heard Afetr that, the traction control light, air bag light and ABS light in the dash are always on, and the computer indicates they all have to be serviced.

Traction control don't work as i'm writing this, neither the ABS.

That happened a couple of times in the past. I had stop the car waited a minute. When i started it again, all was gone. Not this time !

Any advice ??

Thanks you !

P.S. I have a 1999 hard top.

 

disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see if that resets everything first

 

Ok. I just did that...Guess what ?? My battery wasn't good enough to start it. It's a brand new one...2 months old..could that be related ?

Or now i have 2 separates problems ? I'll try to jump start it and see from there.

 

If your battery is draining in a short period of time, you have something thats staying ON when it should be OFF.

Read and post your DTC. You DO NOT and Should NOT have to disconnect the battery to clear errors or DTCs. Just follow this procedue:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!


Make sure you post the entire DTC ie.. 10 PCM P0300 H

 

I didnt have a good connection a few weeks ago on my battery and it kept setting off quite a few codes. I already knew I needed a computer cause of a dead circuit but it started acting real wierd codes coming on and off like crazy. I took off my battery post and there was a bit of corrosion and rust in there. So I cleaned it up and put it all back together and it stop sending off other codes. These cars have a ton of computers and probably the most intense circuitry Ive ever seen in a car. So they have to have good power or problems will arise. Clean up your connections to include your ground busses then search for a short. If you have a multimeter you can disconnect the ground put it to amps and put the probes between the cable and the battery. You should have no draw. If you do you can pull fuses until you find the circuit that has the draw then look more closely into that circuit.

 

Also ensure no lights or radio or anything is on to include the hood lamp is on while doing this.

 

QUOTE" "You should have no draw."

That is not correct. The C5 will have current draw all the time. The BCM goes into SLEEP mode and monitors other computers and provides the security feature. It has a designed 0.020 amp draw. Anything higher will tell you something is drawing additional current.

Bill

 

 

What he said.

geese man... crazy circuitry on these cars. Thanks for the correct info bill

 

Ok. Thanks to all for the quick answers. I read ( the very interesting one Bill sent also ! )the posts. For now, i'm on my way to the mechanic shop to test my battery and alternator, and i'll plug it it. From there, i'll see if the lights ( traction control, ABS and air bag ) in the dash are still on, and if so, i'll try by cleaning all the ground connections. I'll start there and will post again when that is done around next week-end.

Thanks again !

 

Hello to all again !

I did a lot of homework, but still need a hand.

I changed the battery ( a brand new one yes ! it was still under warranty ). While i was there i discovered a big mis-connection on the negative side going to the battery post. I cleaned it, and fixed it with a new connector.

I cleaned all the 3 grounds under the hood. While there i also changed spark plugs and wires, and rotors and pads. ( no related to the problem but i needed to tell to someone who understands me ! )

Now, as for the problem, when i started it, the lights were still on ( ABS, traction control and air bag ). So those system don't work. My next step would be to bring it to a repair shop with a complete computer for a precise diagnosis.

Any idea someone before i do so ?

Thanks

 

Check out the electrical connections at the starter solenoid. This is the electrical distribution for everything. Alternator, battery, fuses boxes and of course the starter, all come together right there. Look for burned/darkened insulation. Also check out the battery's negative cable which I think connects to the block right next to the solenoid. I don't remember on the C-5's but that's where it is on the C-6's.

 

you never did post what codes you had, can post those so we have more of an idea where to go from here?

 

Hello to all again !

After all that trouble....imagine......

There are 2 main fuses ( yellow ones ) under the hood related to TC and ABS......one of them was shorted...changed it, and everything went back to normal. All the other things i did are not for nothing i'm sure....Cleaning the grounds, and changing connectors and battery....I would have had to do it anyway. But...hey!

Thanks again to all, very appreciated. Here in Quebc, the Corvette season is over....it will be in storage for the winter. I'll write back soon because i have a mis-fire that appeared.....not always but in accelaration...

Marc

 

Glad to hear you fixed it, too bad the seasons over for you.

 

Marc...you previously mentioned "changing plugs & plug cables"...your "misfire only on acceleration" could be the lack of continuity from a poor or loose plug cable connection at the #7 or #8 plug...check that out..before you put'er to sleep for the winter..

 

Thanks for the tip.

I should have mentioned that this was present before i changed the plugs and wires. It's hard to make sure and identify the time and condition when it happens. I noticed that it happens at low RPM's like between 1 800 and 2 500 RPM. No matter what gear i'm in. It wasn't there for the first 6 000 Km i had the car, and suddenly appeared after. It's like the engine cuts for a split of a second and then gone. And it desn't happen every time.

I also noticed that in full acceleration, it doesn't happen.

Thanks

Marc