RPM's polyurethane TT couplers
10-02-2010, 02:00 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
RPM's polyurethane TT couplers
I thought I post some pictures of the RPM's polyurethane couplers while I was installing these on a 99 torque tube. These are a better option than using the billet aluminum couplers IMHO. Take a look.
10-02-2010, 03:11 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
The poly's are definitely the way to go though in my opinion if you're all the way in there already.
I didn't realize that poly's were available and thought the only option was rubber or aluminum
10-02-2010, 03:17 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Those poly's do look nice..however my OEM bushings said "made in Germany" just the same as the BMW units that went in and replaced them. lasted for 125K for me..
The poly's are definitely the way to go though in my opinion if you're all the way in there already.
I didn't realize that poly's were available and thought the only option was rubber or aluminum
The poly's are definitely the way to go though in my opinion if you're all the way in there already.
I didn't realize that poly's were available and thought the only option was rubber or aluminum
Last edited by MawneeC5; 10-02-2010 at 03:26 PM.
10-02-2010, 03:24 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Yeah, this is on RPM's website under "new products". I haven't put this in the car yet but I'll post the first drive impressions when I get to drive it. Click below for the details.
RPM poly couplers
RPM poly couplers
10-02-2010, 03:38 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Don't get on it if you think your TT bushing are going out..
10-02-2010, 05:48 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Yeah, this is on RPM's website under "new products". I haven't put this in the car yet but I'll post the first drive impressions when I get to drive it. Click below for the details.
RPM poly couplers
RPM poly couplers
10-02-2010, 06:13 PM
#10
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
For the price, I would stick with stock units. For what it's worth, they are propshaft couplings, not torque tube couplings. The torque tube is the stationery tube that the propshaft and couplings rotate in.
10-02-2010, 09:29 PM
#12
Team Owner
Those poly's do look nice..however my OEM bushings said "made in Germany" just the same as the BMW units that went in and replaced them. lasted for 125K for me..
The poly's are definitely the way to go though in my opinion if you're all the way in there already.
I didn't realize that poly's were available and thought the only option was rubber or aluminum
The poly's are definitely the way to go though in my opinion if you're all the way in there already.
I didn't realize that poly's were available and thought the only option was rubber or aluminum
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&
10-02-2010, 09:38 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of Year Finalist
I have a set of the 10mm couplers and I think the driveshaft
kind of feels tighter. Probably the combination of the Yank
stall and the FLT tranny all combined together. I run alot
of horsepower and I am more confident with the RPM couplers
instead of the stock couplers. The price of $375 is not cheap
but you can see the quality.
kind of feels tighter. Probably the combination of the Yank
stall and the FLT tranny all combined together. I run alot
of horsepower and I am more confident with the RPM couplers
instead of the stock couplers. The price of $375 is not cheap
but you can see the quality.
10-03-2010, 11:16 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
The later cars had the larger 10mm version right? Are there many failures w these?
I think I would try the Zip version for less than half the price before the other.
I think I would try the Zip version for less than half the price before the other.
10-03-2010, 11:44 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
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The RPM couplers are $375.00 per pair.
FWIW, the later cars come with 12mm bolts the only difference is is the bolt and the bolt hole through the coupler.
10-03-2010, 11:49 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Later ones have 12 mm. The price listed are EACH! I rather put on parts from a well known and proven drivetrain company.
10-03-2010, 12:01 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
I see, thought it was for a pair.
I thought the 12mm was the thickness of the base.
Didn't they change this due to the problems? Doesn't the larger hole disperse the stress more evenly, and makes it harder to push a large object through something (rubber) than a smaller one?
I thought the 12mm was the thickness of the base.
Didn't they change this due to the problems? Doesn't the larger hole disperse the stress more evenly, and makes it harder to push a large object through something (rubber) than a smaller one?
10-03-2010, 12:23 PM
#18
Tech Contributor
I see, thought it was for a pair.
I thought the 12mm was the thickness of the base.
Didn't they change this due to the problems? Doesn't the larger hole disperse the stress more evenly, and makes it harder to push a large object through something (rubber) than a smaller one?
I thought the 12mm was the thickness of the base.
Didn't they change this due to the problems? Doesn't the larger hole disperse the stress more evenly, and makes it harder to push a large object through something (rubber) than a smaller one?
10-03-2010, 05:05 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
The later tubes also have a thicker shaft... 63mm VS 55 mm.