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security light

Old Oct 4, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Default security light

So for the second time the security light came on while I was driving tonight. I have not had any starting trouble and it goes off once I restart the car, it just has come on randomly while I'm driving.
So is this a symptom of a dirty ignition or what, everything I saw the light came on at start up and some were difficult to get started. I want to get this fixed before it starts giving me trouble.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 02:13 AM
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Post the codes if there are any.

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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I haven't checked lately but I have a bunch of history codes which I should probably clear first but I will post them anyways.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
I haven't checked lately but I have a bunch of history codes which I should probably clear first but I will post them anyways.
No. Post ALL codes.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
So for the second time the security light came on while I was driving tonight. I have not had any starting trouble and it goes off once I restart the car, it just has come on randomly while I'm driving.
So is this a symptom of a dirty ignition or what, everything I saw the light came on at start up and some were difficult to get started. I want to get this fixed before it starts giving me trouble.
...also, try your other key for a few days
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
No. Post ALL codes.
I am; I was just saying that there will most likely be some that dont apply because it had not been cleared before hand.

Here they are
A0-LDCM: B2282H, B2284H, B2262H, B2264H, U1064H
40 BCM: B2721H
A1-RDCM: B2283H, B2285H, B2265H, U1064H

Not sure why U1064H appears twice but it did.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jcgunn
...also, try your other key for a few days
Its not something that comes up all the time, this is the second time in 2 or 3 months so if I were to change the key out I wouldn't see a difference.
I drive the car every day at least 30 miles and after I cut the car off last night and turned it back on it hasn't come back since.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Its not something that comes up all the time, this is the second time in 2 or 3 months so if I were to change the key out I wouldn't see a difference.
I drive the car every day at least 30 miles and after I cut the car off last night and turned it back on it hasn't come back since.
The B2721 code is more than likely causing the issue.

First check for water or any type of corrosion around the BCM in the passenger side floor board next to the inside fuse box.

It could also be fixed by using another (spare) key.

It could also be the lock cylinder itself just wearing down over time.

The VATS pellet has to make really good almost perfect contact in order to allow the car to start. If your BCM is good and dry and there is no corrosion.

I'll bet over time you won't be able to start the car more frequently you'll be somewhat stranded until eventually the car just will not start or the key just won't even turn.

The fix for this is to replace the ignition lock cylinder and get a new key cut to match. It just wears over time from sliding the key in and out, weight on the key ring and turning back and forth.

If you decide to replace the lock cylinder, it's a good idea to take the ignition switch itself apart real quick and clean the contacts in there too.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:17 PM
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All of your other codes are door control module codes.

Do you windows/locks all work properly on both doors?

The U code appears twice because at some point someone probably had the door panels off of your car and disconnected them from the DCM's. This would cause the loss of comm code. Or it could be cause they have completely died but you would know cause your windows/locks wouldn't be working
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
The B2721 code is more than likely causing the issue.

First check for water or any type of corrosion around the BCM in the passenger side floor board next to the inside fuse box.

It could also be fixed by using another (spare) key.

It could also be the lock cylinder itself just wearing down over time.

The VATS pellet has to make really good almost perfect contact in order to allow the car to start. If your BCM is good and dry and there is no corrosion.

I'll bet over time you won't be able to start the car more frequently you'll be somewhat stranded until eventually the car just will not start or the key just won't even turn.

The fix for this is to replace the ignition lock cylinder and get a new key cut to match. It just wears over time from sliding the key in and out, weight on the key ring and turning back and forth.

If you decide to replace the lock cylinder, it's a good idea to take the ignition switch itself apart real quick and clean the contacts in there too.
So you are saying cleaning the ignition swirch will not help, I need to get a new one?
I have not had a problem with the car starting.
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
All of your other codes are door control module codes.

Do you windows/locks all work properly on both doors?

The U code appears twice because at some point someone probably had the door panels off of your car and disconnected them from the DCM's. This would cause the loss of comm code. Or it could be cause they have completely died but you would know cause your windows/locks wouldn't be working
Thats odd, everythign works fine.
The only other lights I have gotten on my dash are from me forgetting to plug back in the maf sensor after detailing it so I figured they were from that.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 02:37 AM
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I'm with 00Corvette on this one

I've heard of quite a few issues like this over the years. Wear on the cylinder allows the key to move losing contact with the VATs pellet and bringing on the security light. The car will continue to run for that ignition cycle and when you reinsert the key it makes normal contact.

Cleaning the VATs pellet can't do any harm. make sure you're not carrying a bunch of heavy stuff on your key fob. That can cause the key to shift in the barrel and lose contact.

If it gets really bad, Bill Curlee posted a great How To replace/refurbish the ignition cylinder.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DeeGee
I'm with 00Corvette on this one

I've heard of quite a few issues like this over the years. Wear on the cylinder allows the key to move losing contact with the VATs pellet and bringing on the security light. The car will continue to run for that ignition cycle and when you reinsert the key it makes normal contact.

Cleaning the VATs pellet can't do any harm. make sure you're not carrying a bunch of heavy stuff on your key fob. That can cause the key to shift in the barrel and lose contact.

If it gets really bad, Bill Curlee posted a great How To replace/refurbish the ignition cylinder.
All I have on the ring is the fob, house key, autozone rewards card, and gym card so it isnt very heavy at all. I suppose in time I will have to replace it since it will cause the car to not start where the security light has been on in my camaro since I bought it and nothing has happened.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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Thats a shame. It may be worth PM to Bill Curlee. He's stripped down the barrel. It might be cheaper and easier than a whole new part.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DeeGee
Thats a shame. It may be worth PM to Bill Curlee. He's stripped down the barrel. It might be cheaper and easier than a whole new part.

Well it turns out two wires were cut on the camaro causing the security light to be on. But I suppose I should look into rebuilding it on the vette before it gets any worse and I have to replace it. If I were to get a new one would I be able to get it keyed to the keys on the car now or would I have to get the car re-keyed?
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
Well it turns out two wires were cut on the camaro causing the security light to be on. But I suppose I should look into rebuilding it on the vette before it gets any worse and I have to replace it. If I were to get a new one would I be able to get it keyed to the keys on the car now or would I have to get the car re-keyed?
You would take the new lock cylinder into the locksmith/dealer and have a new key cut to that lock cylinder and your VIN if you want to try and attempt to still have 1 key for the door(s)/ignition/glove box/console.

It's still tough even with the VIN to get a new key to work in the old door/console etc..lock cylinders.

This isn't a re-buildable part either...you can clean out the contacts on the ignition switch while you have it apart in 10 minutes though.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
You would take the new lock cylinder into the locksmith/dealer and have a new key cut to that lock cylinder and your VIN if you want to try and attempt to still have 1 key for the door(s)/ignition/glove box/console.

It's still tough even with the VIN to get a new key to work in the old door/console etc..lock cylinders.

This isn't a re-buildable part either...you can clean out the contacts on the ignition switch while you have it apart in 10 minutes though.
Yea thats pretty much what I was thinking and I really dont want to have to carry two keys around in case the fob doesnt work for some reason but couldnt I get a lock smith to re-key the car or even the ignition.
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