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I have a 99 that I just put an LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel in and new GM slave... and have bled it a million times. The shifter seems notchy now and the clutch engages almost immediatly upon releasing the pedal. Is there anything im overlooking or does it need to be bled a million more times? Bleeding it doesnt seem to make it any better.
LS7 clutches do engage quicker than our older C5 clutches. Notchy is not good though.
I had the shop do the same thing to mine- new LS7, and a new slave. Works well- good luck with yours.
I have the speed bleeder hose. Pump it up several times, hold it, bleed it,....repeat.
Not very effective procedure. Try this:
Pump the pedal a few times.
Release the pedal.
Crack open the bleeder.
Have a helper slowly depress the clutch pedal.
Close the bleeder when the pedal is near the floorboard.
Top off clutch reservoir.
Repeat four times, for a total of 5 iterations.
Test drive and observe transmission shifting behavior.
If still notchy, whip out your MityVac and apply vacuum to the reservoir feed line for ~15-20 minutes...check the MityVac clear line for bubbles.
The way you're doing it, you don't move much fluid and therefore don't displace the air bubble(s) effectively. You can bleed it that way for hours and still have air.
This is just a suggestion, I have no idea if it would be the case as I have never seen one in person. I put a clutch in my mom's toyota solara BACKWARDS. The disc had one part of the sleeve larger on one side than the other. It did this EXACT same thing that you are describing. I figured this out after I replaced her master as well......Anybody want to chime in on if they are symmetrical or not?
This is just a suggestion, I have no idea if it would be the case as I have never seen one in person. I put a clutch in my mom's toyota solara BACKWARDS. The disc had one part of the sleeve larger on one side than the other. It did this EXACT same thing that you are describing. I figured this out after I replaced her master as well......Anybody want to chime in on if they are symmetrical or not?
LS7 disc is asymmetric and mine was clearly stamped "FLYWHEEL SIDE" or some such. I can't imagine you'd even get the pressure plate bolted up with the thing reversed.
When my LS7 clutch & flywheel were installed I found the same situation. I was told that was normal & as the clutch broke in there would be improvement.
I think I probably went thru a 5 gal pail of hydraulic fluid trying to improve it. Bleeding did not do anything. After some break in & some aggressive moments with the clutch there was a marginal improvement.
I did purchase a Tick M/C that I was going to try & never did due to engine failure. I see now there is another choice with adjustable M/C that look's interesting.
When I was searching that close to floor engagement there appeared to be a hit or miss with the problem. I also remember something about a shim.
I was under the impression the LS7 clutch had to use the LS7 flywheel?
I was under the same impression. The LS7 flywheel, pressure plate, disc, are usually sold as a package?
When I installed the LS7 clutch, I bled it repeatedly and it still engaged very close to the floor. Pump the **** out of the clutch pedal (100-150 times). The pedal should come up. Drive the car and you will probably notice the pedal progressively comes up over a period of 2 weeks or so.
I think the LS7 flywheel is the same as the LS2 flywheel, they were sold in a package.
Im used to the instant engagement, only problem is I dont think its disengaging fully on full throttle shifts. The old clutch that slipped with 166k miles on it shifted as smooth as butter, its harder to go into gear now. Im wondering if there should have been a shim behind the slave ??
Had mine done about 3500 miles ago. I too have noticed it's a little bit 'toothier' to get into gear at times, compared to the stock clutch...
I didn't notice anything until about 2K miles into the new clutch. More noticeable when cold.
I don't like that. It's not too bad to deal with, but I hope it doesn't get any... toothier.
Had mine done about 3500 miles ago. I too have noticed it's a little bit 'toothier' to get into gear at times, compared to the stock clutch...
I didn't notice anything until about 2K miles into the new clutch. More noticeable when cold.
I don't like that. It's not too bad to deal with, but I hope it doesn't get any... toothier.
LS2 and LS7 flywheels are NOW the same, guess a couple yrs ago there was no more LS2, and only 7's (according to GMPartshouse). Mine is a "very lil" toothy when cold, but perfect after that.
I think the LS7 flywheel is the same as the LS2 flywheel, they were sold in a package.
Im used to the instant engagement, only problem is I dont think its disengaging fully on full throttle shifts. The old clutch that slipped with 166k miles on it shifted as smooth as butter, its harder to go into gear now. Im wondering if there should have been a shim behind the slave ??
A shim is used when the clutch won't fully DISENGAGE. A shim in your situation would make it worse.
The LS7 flywheel and the Corvette LS2 flywheel are the same. The GTO LS2 flywheel is different and will not work with the LS7 clutch, however. You also may want to check the actual shifter alignment!
The LS7 flywheel and the Corvette LS2 flywheel are the same. The GTO LS2 flywheel is different and will not work with the LS7 clutch, however. You also may want to check the actual shifter alignment!
What he said............ he's the man! lol, check alignment?
I just put the LS7 clutch into my '99. Yes, it engages real close coming up off the floor. I just assume that there's a lot more meat on it and we know its larger and most likely a stronger spring. I'm guessing it'll wear a little as I drive it and become more normalized.
I think your answer is in the throw out bearing. I've worked on lots of older Hot Rods and when you start mixing different clutches and pressure plates it's the geometry that's causing the difference. On older Hot Rods if we didn't like the feel of the clutch we would just find a thinner or thicker throw out bearing to make it feel right. But it was easy to drop the tranny and do that. What I don't understand is if the clutch is engaging to quick that says that the there is not enough travel in the throw out bearing, so a thinner bearing would help that. But if your also saying that the shifter feels notchy that could be caused by the pressure plate not fully disengaging the clutch disc. I don't see how you can have both problems at the same time. I would think it would be one or the other.
I just installed a new transmission and clutch and since I don't race my Z I just when with a stock replacement clutch and it feels perfect. These types of problems is why I made that decision.
Last edited by Paul 75 L82; Jan 20, 2011 at 08:03 AM.